The Bloomsbury Group and all that (Part 1)

Charleston House, East Sussex

A special interest holiday on The Bloomsbury Group was a dream come true. I have long been fascinated by them, and had visited Charleston House and Monk’s House some years ago. This time there was a whole three full days touring their homes, with a few surprises thrown in.

A quick run through of main Bloomsbury Group people – Virginia Woolf, Vanessa Bell (her sister), Thoby Stephen (brother), Roger Fry, Duncan Grant, Clive Bell, Leonard Woolf, Lytton Strachey, E M Forster and John Maynard Keynes.

The holiday was taken with HF Holidays, a company I have used quite a few times now. They run walking holidays to suit everyone (three grades to choose from each day), trail walking, special interest/activity (railways to yoga and photography to the Bronte’s) and discovery (touring). They own their own houses in the UK, but not abroad (where they also run tours).

For this holiday I was based in West Sussex, a house called Abingworth. The first holiday I ever took with them was here, and strangely, I was given the same bedroom! On waking I’d hear the geese by the pond, which I could see from the bedroom window. This is the kind of holiday that a single person would be very welcome. Here I mean a single traveller, not single as in not married! They run special ‘solo’ weeks, but I have gone alone twice in the past on special interest holidays and soon made friends. This time I was with a friend.

Abingworth

What I love about HF, apart from the great houses and rooms, is that everything is included – breakfast, a packed lunch and three course dinner. There is also the famous HF quiz on a Wednesday night. Every house does the same one on the same night. Normally, there would be other evening entertainment, but due to Covid this has been suspended. Of course, if that is not your thing, you can always opt out and sit and chat, or go to your room to read.

After arriving and unpacking there was afternoon tea. Refreshments with cake and scones and a chance to meet the leaders and other holiday makers. There was a little time to kill before the evening meeting to discuss our schedule, and then dinner. So a walk around the grounds was in order. There were rabbits and mushrooms behind the hotel, and the path led up to a vantage point with the South Downs all around. The sun was going down, casting golden shadows across fields. Then it was back to the hotel.

The South Downs

Sissinghurst was the first stop on the first day. This was the home of Vita Sackville-West and husband, Harold. Vita and Harold had an open marriage and each had lovers. Vita boasted that she’d had fifty! One of those lovers was Virginia Woolf, the writer, who lived at Monk’s House with her husband Leonard. The lives of the Bloomsbury Group (the name comes from the London Squares where they lived) is complicated, so unless you know the group, be prepared for some confusion!

Sissinghurst was a ninety minute drive, and the beautiful house and gardens sit in Kent, near Sevenoaks. The couple bought the place when it was very run down. There had been a manor house here once, but it was badly used. Prisoners of war were held here and to stay alive they ripped up anything they could burn to keep warm. Gradually, what was left was restored. There are several buildings dotted around in the grounds, though not all were open. The tower where Vita wrote was closed due to a ceiling collapse, but I bet the view would have been spectacular.

Sissinghurst

The Tower where Vita wrote

Part of the house was accessible (no photography allowed), and the library (where I could take photos). There was also a house where the cook lived and also the teenage sons. The gardens are set out in ‘rooms’, the most famous being the white garden. I was surprised by much colour there still was at this time of year.

The Library
Library
Outside of the house

Like any tour, there wasn’t enough time. But there is the potential to return at a later date to spend more time in the gardens. Certainly, I’d like to come back and to visit the tower.

Typical Kent Oast Houses
Where the cook and the children lived

The vegetable garden
Vita’s tools (Exhibition space)
In the exhibition space

The second, and last visit of the day, was to Knole House, the home Vita was unable to inherit because she was a woman! This was a very different sort of house. Castle-like, it was dark inside; lots of wood, a gatehouse tower, and endless dark portraits of family going back generations.

Knole House

The gatehouse tower was where one member of the family escaped to, known as the bachelor pad, and from the top there are views of the house. I should say there is also a deer park here, but again there was not enough time to walk much of the grounds.

The music room in the gatehouse tower
From the top of the tower
The Great Hall
The Gallery, also used for exercise!

Drop back here again for Part 2, when I shall talk about Charleston House, the main highlight of the holiday, and the main Bloomsbury home. I would urge you to use the links to the various houses where there are more photos and lots of information.

Tate Britain Exhibitions and autumn has arrived

The Dance – Paula Rego

Above is a photo of my favourite painting by Paula Rego. It is a rare happy painting, because the artist’s work is usually quite troubling, quite disturbing. Her art depicts war, the position of women in society, abortion, FGM, people trafficking and more. Born in Portugal during an oppressive regime, her work is her way of expressing herself about those times. Later, she moved to London and was a student at the Slade School of Fine Art.

The dark content and often wildly abstract paintings don’t inspire me to take many photos and these slightly more acceptable views here are the only ones I took. Paula Rego plays on the more disturbing aspect of children’s fairy stories and folk tales. Her work spans very different artist medium from oil, watercolour and ink, painting on aluminum, to collage and etchings. Her sketch books are stunning to view.

Her life is an interesting and often sad one, and I find learning the background to an artist’s life helps me understand their work. It certainly helped here. I had recently watched a TV programme about her life which brought things into perspective.

The Little Murderess
The Pillowman

There are eleven rooms in this latest exhibition, and is the first time I have seen her work in person. I studied a couple of her paintings for art history (The Dance was one of them), so I was thrilled to finally see the scale of her work.

Human Trafficking

I do wonder how she can work so much on dark subjects. I would find that very difficult. It can be the stuff of nightmares, for sure. They are works you don’t forget when you leave the gallery. The exhibition finishes in a couple of weeks time, should you want to see it for yourself.

The Bear & Red Monkey

Adjacent to Paula Rego’s exhibition was Heather Phillipson’s installations. I found them weirdly compelling. I wonder what you think of these photos! Sound effects accompany the exhibition, giving it an eerie atmosphere.

Heather Phillipson – multiple working TV screens
Rhinos drinking?

This is a moving installation

Autumn is arriving now, and on Saturday I woke to fog. I was out early and spotted the brilliant colours and spiders’ webs. I always have my mobile handy for taking photos, and I actually enjoy fog for picture taking – lots of liquid drops on leaves and so on.

Have a good week everyone.

With autumn comes fog dotted with colour
Spider’s web
Nature doing what nature does

A London Escape – Tonbridge, Kent

Tonbridge

There aren’t a great many advantages to becoming older, but the one I love is having a Freedom Pass (which takes me around London on bus, train and tube – as well as the tram – for free). And then there’s my Senior Citizen’s Railcard, which gives me a nice discount on all my train journeys outside London. So with my combined discounts, I travelled by bus and train out to Tonbridge and back for £5!

Bridge over the River Medway

The journey time is around 40 minutes from Charing Cross, and normally the train is pretty empty. However, the day I went, I got onto the platform to hear that there were major disruptions due to an electrical fault and only two lines were in operation. Luckily, I was okay. My line was running, though there were less trains than usual.

Tonbridge is a lovely town. I was impressed that the high street seemed to be thriving, which rather (happily) goes against the grain of most towns in England right now with their boarded up shops. There was a nice mix of chain stores and others

One of the oldest buildings?

The main attraction of Tonbridge is the castle, so that was where I headed. This is an experience, taking you back to medieval times with life sized models and information in rooms in the castle. Tickets are bought from the Tourist Information Centre which is on site (they also sell refreshments!). You get an audio to guide you around the rooms. A couple of the rooms are dimly lit, and when I asked, I was told I would be the only person in there! The lady reassured me that they had cameras and could see me. ‘You can always wave to us,’ she said!

Tonbridge Castle

The audio begins describing the towers and the murder holes under the arch where guards could shoot at people! You use a key fob to let yourself into the castle and enter a light room with information before descending to a lower room that was the food store with a clerk who has turned to see you enter. Barrels of salt line one shelf and other food items line other shelves. There are the obligatory rats enjoying themselves. Through the door is a man making arrows; swords are buried to the hilt in sawdust, and along the wall helmets wait.

The murder holes in the roof of the arch
The food store
The clerk and the arrow maker
Helmets and swords

From here you go up the stairs into the guard room where the guards are enjoying a meal (a suitable audio switches on here). This is a good place to sit and enjoy a video of life in the castle before entering through another door into the Great Hall. This is quite magnificent. Just off the hall is the privy (in use!) and a time capsule. On the floor of the Great Hall you can see the murder holes which you can see through, along with a slit where the portcullis was raised. Originally, the room had other floors and you can see the old fireplaces.

What’s on the menu tonight?
The Great Hall
Time capsule
Do not disturb!

From the Great Hall there are steep steps to climb to go to the top of the castle. There are lovely views of Kent from the top.

From the castle roof
Another view

Then it’s back down to the Great Hall and out through another door to the exit. I had survived my lonely look round. When I returned the audio there was a woman on her own just about to make the same trip and I confirmed it was okay (yeah, a bit creepy if you thought about the history, but I switched off my panic mode about ghosts and all that, just!). She was a little confused about how to enter, so I took her round to the door and explained to listen to the audio before entering (my mistake, which meant I had to listen to lots of audio on entering the castle before it got to the bit where I was standing).

A better look at those murder holes from under the arch
The Great Hall from the upper level

I had asked the lady in the Tourist Information Centre about other things to see while I was in Tonbridge. She asked if I liked walking. Music to my ears! She suggested a map and a walk to Barden Lake. Firstly, I headed back into town for lunch and then I set off with the map to enjoy a nice walk. Yes, I did get a bit lost, but luckily found people to ask, including two guys from the Environmental Agency who were in a van.

Across the fields in search of the lake
Ah, the countryside!
Nice path
Bridge

The lake was fabulous, and then it was a short walk back into Tonbridge for a quick look at the shops (Oxfam Bookshop was a must!) and afternoon tea before catching the train back home.

Barden Lake
Barden Lake

Poppy – Menorial Garden, Tonbridge

Something I have recently noticed is that there seem to be a lot of people like me – ladies my age and older out on their own enjoying seeing things (I’m sure there are men too, but it’s the ladies I notice). The lady I spoke to at the castle was there for the day. She’d gone to Tunbridge Wells one day and has passed through Tonbridge on the train and thought, ‘That looks nice. I’d like to see that.’ And here she was. Very much the sort of thing I do! The week before, I’d given another lady instructions on how to get back to Battersea Power Station, and she admitted that like me she’d just come to see what the new development was like. It’s great to know there is a little army of us taking in the sights, being tourists in our own country and enjoying ourselves.

Until next time.

Battersea Power Station regeneration

Battersea Power Station today (2021) Apartments

It’s been a good few years since I was in Battersea. The last time was probably when on a Thames Path Walk. Work was in the early stages then. Lots of digging, water and mud. The Power Station was pretty much as it had been then, derelict with missing windows. The earliest photo I can find of it that I took was in 2013 from across the other side of the river (north bank). Here you can see the contrast between then and now.

2013 – Battersea Power Station

So, why was I visiting now? Well, a couple of weeks ago the new Northern Line Tube Extension opened. Two new stations appeared on the map – Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station with a connection at Kennington. This extension has been planned for many years to coincide with the regeneration of Battersea, Now was the time to go visit and see what they’ve done.

Before I take you there, I would mention that there is talk of extending the new line to Clapham Junction (main rail station). This would be quicker for me, but even so, this was exciting.

The tube map on the trains doesn’t yet include the new line!
At Kennington

As usual, I soon got lost, even on the underground as I signage was not great to find the right platform. The platform (4, I believe it was) is usually a terminus at Kennington, so I had to wait about ten minutes for the tube to arrive (it is hoped by the new year trains will be more frequent). Getting out at Battersea Power Station you encounter huge arrows on the pavement guiding you towards your destination. This means walking by hoardings around work which is still going on in a big way! However, the signage again is not great. I came to a roundabout and turned right as this led to the river. Except at the end it is blocked. I turned back and decided to chat-up the security guard patrolling the apartment block and ask for advice. He was very helpful and directed me to go back to the roundabout and keep going right. This, he said, would take me to the shops. He said there had been a festival here over the weekend.

I’m obviously not the only one getting excited with a camera!
The Roundabout – left is back to the station – right towards the shops & river

Turning where advised I found some sign posting and kept going until I was on the other side of the Power Station. With the Power Station on my right and shops on my left I headed towards the river. The shops are a mix of cafes, restaurants, gyms and a big supermarket, but surprising (and rather nice in my view) this was not one of the main chain store supermarkets. Whether that meant it was more expensive, I don’t know as I didn’t venture inside. I guess if you can afford an apartment here, shopping is the least of your worries.

Work is still going on all around, though there are nice seating areas, water features, bars and a pier area (closed) with wooden huts on it. My intention had been to walk back along the Thames Path to Vauxhall, though I had my doubts this could be done, due to all the building work. I walked as far as I could and at the end was a turnstile for contractors/builders working on the sites.

The supermarket
Interesting buildings
Lots of glass.
Water features
Gardens with deckchairs and a building site to the right!

I turned back and reviewed my options. There weren’t many. Either try and negotiate the building works to find the path again, or continue in the other direction towards Battersea Park and cross one of the bridges and walk back to Vauxhall that way. This is what I did. It was a good choice.

I found an information hut about Battersea Power Station which was interesting, and it had models (I do love a model!). After leaving the area, I crossed the busy road leading over Chelsea Bridge and walked into Battersea Park. I had brought a packed lunch, but fancied a nice hot cup of tea. Luckily, there are plenty of places in the park to get one (there are also lots of toilets). I sat by the river with my lunch.

Model of the old Power Station

Afterwards I explored the park a little and found the fountains pretty cool. There is a Zoo here too. It is a children’s zoo, but I’ve been round it as an adult (why let the kids have all the fun).

Fountains at Battersea Park
View across to the north bank. Dramatic sky.

I then crossed Albert Bridge, a most spectacular bridge, to the north side of the Thames and began my walk back towards Vauxhall. This is one of my favourite parts of the Thames Path. In autumn it is most beautiful with its tree lined pavement. Although autumn is upon us, the trees have not yet turned enough, but I may go back again when that happens. This is also a famous place for Blue Plaques, as so many people have lived here. For me, the notable one is Gabrielle Dante Rossetti, a pre-Raphaelite artist, part of The Brotherhood, which included my hero William Morris. Rossetti lived at 16 Cheyne Walk.

Albert Bridge
View from Albert Bridge (Battersea Park right)

I made a slow walk back towards Vauxhall enjoying the architecture and nipping through Pimlico Gardens and soon I was crossing over Vauxhall Bridge to go to the station, for a quicker way home.

My favourite walk – Power Station in the distance
Beautiful buildings along Chelsea Embankment

Vauxhall

It had been an interesting day. Battersea is growing. I only hope they don’t put too many high rise apartments in. Vauxhall has gone crazy with them. In a few years perhaps I will go back again and see the finished area. Maybe by then the Thames Path will be accessible back to Vauxhall without having to deviate around building works. London never sleeps. It is growing all the time.

Pimlico Gardens
Vauxhall Bridge

The Mound at Mable Arch

First view of The Mound

The Mound has become a bit of a laughing stock. Only a temporary installation, The Mound (by Marble Arch tube station) opened in July, and shut two days later for a short time because it ‘wasn’t quite ready’! People joked about it. Having paid to visit, some said it was London’s worst attraction. When it finally re-opened it became free to visit, and beneath it was a light show, which most people visiting said was the best part of it. Finally, the whole project was way over budget. Was this the best way for the City of Westminster to spend its money? Well, when a friend and I were trying to decide where to go for our day out, I said, ‘how about The Mound?’ So, we went.

Looking out down the side of The Mound

Right off, I’ll say we had a lovely time. We walked through three parks – St James’s, Green and Hyde Park – to get there. Had we taken the tube we would have missed changing of the guard and a military band rehearsing. London always has something going on and constantly surprises me. When we were close to Hyde Park, two guys asked where The Mound was. I explained we had to get across the next big roadway, and the entrance to Hyde Park was ‘that big white arch over there.’ The Mound was on the other side of the park. We said we were going there and wished them luck. Later, when we stopped on the edge of Hyde Park/Marble Arch we sat down for lunch and found the guys had been following us so as not to get lost! We laughed about it and later saw them on the top of The Mound.

From the top – Marble Arch fountains with Cumberland Gate Lodge in the distance

Our first impression of The Mound was not great. It looked patchworked together. But it was free to enter and, having seen the light show on TV, I was looking forward to seeing that.

The views from the top were OK, but to be honest, it wasn’t spectacular. Nevertheless, we could make out some landmarks and information boards were plentiful and history facts were interesting.

Name that building!

Going down, again we saw the mass of scaffolding to make this installation. I was fascinated by this. To me this was the great work of art! It was also funny to see the trees in pots with their trunks going through the roof – the roof reminding me of our attic with its roofing felt!

Through the roof
The scaffolding

We then entered the light show. Wow! I’d seen one of these installations as part of an art walk last year. But this was spellbinding. Some of these changed colour and there were a few videos. Everything was mesmerising. It’s so dark down there you are almost bumping into people. Luckily, it wasn’t crowded. We both agreed that the light show was the best thing about this installation.

Part of the light show by Anthony James

The Mound is due to be dismantled in January 2022. We were both glad we’d been to see it, and the walk back was just as nice as before. Was it the best use of the Council’s money? No. But it was there and I am not one to refuse to see something once it’s been built. I still like to experience these things for myself.

Here are a few other impressions of London that day.

Buckingham Palace from St James’ Park

Chester & North Wales

Taken from the train – Crewe to Chester

Just back from a four night stay in Chester. We went with a tour company, making our own way to the hotel, and then coach tours out around North Wales. It’s been over thirty-five years since I was last in North Wales.

Travelling on a Sunday you always encounter engineering works on the train lines. Then it’s usually replacement buses. This time we had a replacement train from Crewe to Chester. It took us the pretty way round on a journey that lasted about an hour against the usual half an hour. But I wasn’t complaining with views like the one above.

Then it was a taxi from Chester to our hotel about three miles out of the city. It was raining when we arrived and continued to do so all night. By the morning it was damp but not raining. Our first port of call was the coach into Chester for a walk around. We’d been to Chester before a few years ago when we had walked the City walls, visited the old and new Cathedral, Roman Gardens and the Roman Amphitheatre. The Shropshire Union Canal and the River Dee run through the city, and there is a lovely park called Grosvenor Park. The shopping area is the most fascinating with its Town Hall and upper shopping levels. I believe this is pretty unique. However, like every town here in the UK many shops have closed down.

Clock, Chester
Roman Gardens, Chester

After the city walk we drove out to Llangollen for lunch. I had been here before and remember the River Dee and the steam railway, though this is not yet up and running. I believe it has been closed for some time – something to do with money and probably Covid. From there we drove to Froncysyllte where we boarded the Thomas Telford for a scenic two hour cruise along the canal back to Llangollen. When we went over the aqueduct, our coach driver, Mark, was up there filming us as we trundled across! He later sent us all copies of the film. During our trip, it rained on and off. We could hear it beating down on the roof of the boat, but we were lucky that it always stopped when we were outside, which was very generous of it.

Llangollen
Llangollen Steam Railway
The Thomas Telford
Crossing the aqueduct

The second day was a long and busy one. We left at 8am, having pushed down a breakfast I didn’t want but knew I should eat – my tummy isn’t awake to eat at 7am! We had an unscheduled stop in Snowdonia with enough time to get off the coach and take a few photos. We drove through Betws-y-Coed and Swallow Falls and later Llanberis Pass. We had a comfort stop at the Snowdonia Mountain Railway. I had been here before, and that time I went up to the top of the mountain on the train (hubby had been up the hard way….walking!). This time there wasn’t time for that. Instead we set off to Caernarfon. This was a lovely place. However, we didn’t want to waste a lovely day (which it was, with glorious sunshine) inside the castle. We walked along the promenade where the tide was out and sea calm. Absolutely beautiful. From there we went over the Menai Straits to Plas Newydd. The house there was being renovated so lots of the furniture had been removed. However, there were paintings by Rex Whistler. The highlight was the Italian Gardens over three terraces, with views across to the Menai Straits. This was a photographer’s paradise.

Snowdonia
Snowdonia Mountain Railway
Caernarfon Castle
A walk along the prom at Caernarfon

Our final stop was Beaumaris Castle. I was impressed as the castle still has a proper moat with water in it. As well as that, the castle boasts inner walls, which we walked around. I then had enough time to quickly walk around the main street for some photos of the old shops.

Plas Newydd
My favourite room in the house
A view from the gardens
Looking towards the Menai Straits from Pas Newydd
The gardens
Taken from the coach window
Beaumaris Castle
The inner walls of the castle
Beaumaris Castle

On the last day there was an optional tour to Llandudno, Bodnant Gardens and Conwy Castle. However, we’d both been to Llandudno, and the coach the previous day did a quick pass by Conwy Castle (it did look impressive), so we decided to have a free day. My husband was born in Chester, so the morning was spent visiting the church he was baptised in and finding the house he lived in until he was two and half, when the family then moved away. We then walked on down into Chester and had lunch. We wandered around for a while and then made our way back to the hotel mid afternoon. That evening there was one last group meal in the hotel restaurant. So soon it was all over.

Conwy Castle – Impressive or what? Taken from the coach
Pocket Park, Chester
Grosvenor Gardens, Chester
Chester main shopping area
Upper row of shops, Chester
View of our hotel from the drive
The pond at the hotel

Trent Country Park, Enfield

Map

With yet another gloomy day weather-wise, I just had to get outside. Just before I left home it was drizzling, so I held off for a while. In the end it looked a little brighter and I set off to Trent Country Park in Enfield. This was a long trek across London – bus, then train into Vauxhall station, tube to Green Park where I changed to the Piccadilly line. I stayed on the tube all the way to the end of the line at Cockfosters. I remembered that I had been here once before, to a wedding two years ago. In fact, when I came out of the station, the church where the marriage took place was just over the road.

From Cockfosters tube it’s just a short walk (turning right from the station) to the Country Park. I had a map from the most excellent book, Freedom Pass London. Without it I might have got lost in the park as it was much larger than I imagined with many paths. I was following one trail.

A very useful book

A little history (and why not). The park was once King Henry IV’s hunting ground in the 14th century, then known as Enfield Chase. in 1909 the estate passed to Sir Philip Sassoon (cousin of World War I poet Siegfried Sassoon) He entertained big stars like Charlie Chaplin in the Manor House, also Winston Churchill, and during the second world war it housed German General prisoners of war, including Rudolph Hess.

My first point of call was The Obelisk dedicated to the birth of George Grey, Earl of Harold in 1702. But George was actually born in 1732 and died six month later! The monument is quite a trek, but there is a nice view back to the park. Beyond it are farm fields. The combine harvesters were o,ut and it reminded me of Clarkson’s Farm which my son bulldozed me into watching on Prime, and grudgingly had to admit I enjoyed!

One of the ponds
Towards the Obelisk
The field

From there I headed towards Camlet Moat (a slight unsure moment when I wondered if I was going the right way). Camlet is a shortened version of Camelot and it is said that an apparition of Guinevere can be spotted here. The ghost of Geoffrey De Mandeville, Earl of Sussex and Hertfordshire (isn’t that greedy to have two counties?!) also haunts the moat after he was shot with an arrow in 1144 in a rebellion against King Stephen. However, the moat has Celtic origins and was said to have had a drawbridge in Roman times. Dick Turpin was also said to have hid in a hut here. The water was very green with weed and very still. I saw no ghost, but then I wouldn’t want to be here at night.

The Moat

The next stop was the Japanese Water Garden. I was a little disappointed. I guess I was expecting something like the gardens in Holland Park. No waterfalls and the water was covered in weed. I think I must have missed the best of any planting as everything was green, no flowers. However, the lake beyond it was beautiful.

The Japanese Water Gardens
The Lake

After this I became a little disorientated with signage and my trail map. I ended up doubling back and then retracing my steps until I found the WRAS Wildlife Hospital & Animal Centre on the edge of the park. For £3.50 you get to enter. There is a small cafe but no toilets. Here are the rescued animals and those unable to be returned to the wild. There were geese, deer, sheep, pigs, various birds and a little fox. The little fox was a sorry sight, and I was so worried about it that when I returned home I messaged the hospital to ask about it. I was told that she was ten years old, named Foxy and that she had been in a road traffic accident and her hip was broken. The operation wasn’t particularly successful so she could not be returned to the wild. She shared her run with another female fox who was very shy. Little Foxy stole my heart. I just wanted to give her a hug.

Foxy, who stole my heart
Hello there!
The St Francis of Assisi Garden for all lost animals
By the entrance of the Animal Hospital

Just on the edge of the country park Berkeley Homes are building a new estate and the manor house seems to be being converted into apartments. I am sure the estate will look very nice, but I worry about building so close to a lovely area such as this.

There is a cafe (and toilets) by the car park and here I had a very late lunch before leaving. Walking along the tree lined road there is a Go Ape Tree Top Adventure Park which looked very popular. I couldn’t find the Wood Sculptor’s Workshop which is supposed to be adjacent, but I did see some of the animal wood carvings.

Late lunch of roasted vegetable Panini with crisps
The tree lined road towards the exit

The weather never really got much beyond on a blink of sun and stayed gloomy, but at least I was out in the countryside. It felt more like autumn than late summer. August was mainly a complete flop weather-wise.

Windsor to Maidenhead – Thames Path Walk

Just beyond Boveney Lock

This was one of the nicest walks along the Thames Path. It was simple, so even I couldn’t get lost! I caught the train out to Windsor and walked over the bridge that leads to Eton and joined the path which begins again off a side road. Windsor goes out a long way as soon, on the other side of the bank, I saw Windsor Racecourse. Perhaps due to the way the river bends I walked a long way before I left the racecourse behind. This stretch (Windsor to Maidenhead) is around six and half to seven miles. An easy walk.

Duck Tours, Windsor. Apologies for the blurry snap, but I only had my mobile with me and it doesn’t take well to zooming in.

The path is combination of tree covered and open spaces. At first there were plenty of benches on which to sit, but it was too early for me to stop for my lunch. Later I found it hard finding somewhere to stop. In the end, I came across a willow on the bank which had a nice clearing on which to sit. I was almost toes in the water! Later I realised that I had stopped opposite Dorney Reach Hotel. Rivercraft moved up and down causing lovely ripples.

Canal boat
Windsor Racecourse opposite

My first stop was close to Boveney Lock. Boveney Church has origins going back to the twelfth century. The church, built for bargemen doing trade along here, is right on the path, well as slight detour. A path leads to it from the main path.

Boveney Church
Inside Boveney Church looking towards the altar
Boveney Church towards the back (note Font)

I had set off at a reasonable pace on this walk, but I slowed down as I could see that I would be in Maidenhead earlier than I had anticipated. For a long while I had the river on one side of me and Eton College rowing lake on the other.

Part of Eton College? Dorney Rach rowing lake

Boveney Lock

My other stop was by Bray Lock where I sat watching boats passing through while I ate a cereal bar. The sun had come out and I had strip off my fleece and put my sunglasses on!

Bray Lock

I wasn’t far from my destination now, about three miles. I felt so good I thought maybe I could do another section after this (though I’d already bought my train ticket home from Maidenhead). However, shortly after this my legs began to ache! I know my limits really!

One of the most lovely sections then came. Here was a gate that led through a section with private houses on the right and their moorings on the left. Only pedestrians are allowed through here. Cyclist have to follow a different path. The houses are stunning and some moorings had benches with a view! What a lovely place to live. Further along as I neared Maidenhead I saw the family home of Olympic swimmer Tom Dean, The flags were still up!

The private path – houses one side, river the other (looking back towards Windsor)
Another view – towards Maidenhead

In front of me I could now see Maidenhead bridge, but before it the railway bridge. I was on the final stretch. I walked over the bridge and was immediately assaulted by the noise of traffic and so many roads. The Thames side cafe was closed for renovations and I was dying for a cup of tea. I crossed over to Bridge Gardens and sat for a while watching the Thames. Then it was time to head into town for that cuppa!

The railway bridge and behind it Maidenhead bridge
Maidenhead Bridge

The main road, maybe a bypass, was busy and the walk into town is a fair way. On the right I came across some lovely almshouses, but I bet when they were built they didn’t have a busy road and subway running so close to them.

Almshouses right up close to the bypass
This part of town reminds me of Reading

The town itself was fairly quite and I was surprised. I had a wander around before stopping at a cafe and sat outside with tea and carrot cake. Then it was time to leave. I headed to the station and had timed it well. Only about ten minutes before my train was due. This time I was going home via a different route back to London. I was heading into Paddington. When I arrived in London the tube I wanted was suspended, but I found another route across London to get home. That’s the good thing about London, there is always another way!

The reward!

Here are a few more river and town photos.

The scary bridge! I hated going under this. Every time something crossed, there was banging and clanging!
Dorney Reach Hotel. I sat opposite to eat my lunch
Close to Windsor
A peaceful stretch of the Thames
Possibly half way through the walk
In Bridge Gardens, Maidenhead
Maidenhead
Clock Tower, Maidenhead (by station)

Hockney, a book launch & a walk by the Thames at night

Bridges across the Thames

Thursday was a busy day. I had tickets for myself and a friend to see David Hockney’s exhibition at the Royal Academy in the afternoon. I’ve always been a fan of his, and the work for this exhibition was done during lockdown in France using an iPad. What would it be like? This isn’t the first iPad pictures of his I’ve seen. There were a few in the last exhibition, A Bigger Picture in 2009, but this was wholly using an iPad (an App especially adapted for him). The Arrival of Spring is a collection of 116 works include trees, flowers, the house and barn, the pond and the tree house, all within the boundaries of where Hockney was living during lockdown in Normandy. He worked outside (en plein air) as did the French Impressionists before him, and the works were executed between February and June 2020. He worked almost daily, and on occasions he would produce two works in one day.

So, what are the pictures like? Well, photography is not allowed inside the exhibition, though if you Google the name of the exhibition or visit the website of The Royal Academy, you can see some pictures. Here is video preview to whet your appetite.

I loved the fact that I could see how Hockney put the pictures together. Great swathes of colour and then dots or lines. I’d say they are very vibrant, lots of bright green. I wondered about the restrictions of using a iPad to paint. Was this why they were so bright green? Then again, Hockney does like vibrant! His A Bigger Picture had lots of bright colours on canvas. I realised that this is the way he paints. His style is unique and recognisable. Did we like the pictures? I feel guilty in saying that we we spend just thirty minutes at the exhibition (we spent the same time in Hatchards Bookshop!). However, we agreed that it was good to see them. A few (well, particularly one) were what I’d call naive art, almost a first attempt. It looked rushed and childlike. The ones we particularly liked were those of rain on the pond. The pictures are very bright, and perhaps best seen from a distance, but then again you miss the technique. I have never tried art on an iPad, and I am a dabbler in art, so what do I know? Big named artists draw big crowds whatever they do, and David Hockney always draws a big crowd. I had difficulty getting tickets for the exhibition in the first place. They were going like hot-cakes.

Certainly it was worth a viewing, and certainly it was different. David Hockney can do no wrong in my eyes! It was a challenge and he took. He has always done things differently to others, and seems to relish new technology. I also love his attitude to life! Like many artists he used the same subjects time and again, on different days and different times marking how spring arrived. Monet did the same thing with buildings. It also remind me of how I watched spring arrive last year. I used to jog around a local park. In my case, I took photos every time I was there. I’d photograph the trees sprouting leaves from bare branches, and the flower beds went from nothing to a riot of colour. I took photos. Hockney painted with an iPad. We will all remember that spring differently. It was unique and beautiful, despite what else was going on.

A Field Guide to Larking

In the evening I went on to Southwark Cathedral for a book launch of A Field Guide to Larking by Lara Maiklem. I already have her fascinating first book, and this one I ordered at the time, so I could pick it up on the night. I was in the queue early so I could get a good seat! I collected my book and then sat down. Of course I flipped through the book while I was waiting. In fact I began reading it! The resident cat, Hodge, was strolling around and one time went up the steps past Lara as she was speaking!

The talk was interesting and informative. Lara gave advice and recounted instances of finds or funny things, items she found she thought weren’t that important only to find they were, and vice versa. At the end there was time for questions and answers.

Lara Maiklem

I was so chuffed to clutch my book. It is illustrated and has room to log your own finds. I can’t wait to read the whole book and get started. Just so you know, if you want to go mudlarking you do need a Licence!

Before and after the book launch, I took photos along the River Thames from London Bridge to Tower Bridge. I finally got to see the bridges with their illuminations. I had a nice stroll back to the station at Waterloo along the south bank after a very interesting arty day!

Tower Bridge
Shad Thames
The Anchor

Millennium Bridge
Hungerford Bridge

48 hours in Sussex

Looking towards Rottingdean (Roedean School on the cliffs)

It’s amazing what you can fit into forty-eight hours! And boy, we were lucky with the weather.

A friend had invited me to stay with her at her apartment at Brighton Marina for two nights. I have been many times before, but this might be the last as she is thinking of selling after fifteen years of it being a family bolt hole. Circumstances change and all that. My family have borrowed it twice as well and I shall be sorry not to visit again. We made the most of it!

The day we arrived, the weather was beautiful, having left London in spots and spits of rain. This is often the case. Once over the South Downs weather can change rapidly. We dumped our stuff, nipped to Asda for some provisions, and returned to the apartment to eat our lunch. Then it was time for a stroll. We headed off along the lower cliff path towards Rottingdean. The tide was in and the heat of the sun was reflecting back on us from the white chalk cliffs. The lower cliff path attracts joggers and cyclists (you can hire bikes nearby) and is flat. The sea was still (sometimes) crashing over the wall, and we nearly got caught.

The tide is high!

The sea looked so inviting on such a hot day, and I was tempted to go in and paddle. There were a few stretches where sand made an appearance between the stones, and quite a few people (as well a dog) were out swimming. As we neared Rottingdean the urge to paddle grew stronger. I knew if I didn’t do this now, I probably wouldn’t get another chance. So we went down the steps on onto the beach. My friend, who at first said she’d photograph it, decided to join me (I lead her into all sorts!). Off came the shoes and sandals and into the sea we went. Actually, the sea was warm once the initial wash-over the feet came. It felt refreshing. It was just great.

Come in, the water is lovely

After sitting on the beach to dry our feet, it was onwards up the steps to Rottingdean itself. This is a favourite place of mine. It was the home of Rudyard Kipling and Edward Burne Jones for a time, and there is a Burne Jones stained glass window in the church. It is a lovely village with a green, pond and beautiful gardens, once belonging to Kipling, which is free to explore. This time we didn’t get into the village, just to a shop that sold ice creams. I was impressed to find they had two vegan choices.

Coming back we walked along the upper cliff where you can spot the windmill and the breeze is very welcome.

Ditchling Windmill
The upper and lower paths (Brighton Marina in the distance)
The Marina from the upper path
An evening stroll along the Marina

The following day we had tickets for Ditchling Museum, so we set off in plenty of time in order to find somewhere to park. We were a little early, so we had cup of tea before going in. The man associated with the place is Eric Gill, an artist lived in Ditchling with his family. Later the abusive relationships he had with his daughters made it difficult for the museum to know how to approach his art in light of this.

John Vernon Lord – notebook
Illustrations for his children’s book, The Jam Sandwich

There were some exhibits of his on show, but less than I had expected. However, the exhibition we saw was works by John Vernon Lord. He is a fascinating illustrator, especially his notebooks. The tiny writing and intricate drawings were just mind boggling. He is obsessed with numbers, and he uses a stop watch throughout the day. He knows how long he takes to complete a picture. John Lord has illustrated works by Edward Lear, Lewis Carroll and James Joyce, as well as writing and illustrating children’s books. There is video interview which makes great viewing.

An illustration of a flat he lived in in London

I had never heard of John Vernon Lord before this exhibition, but was totally knocked out by his work. I found that he also illustrated an album cover for Deep Purple, a record I have in my collection! This was a wonderful exhibition.

Deep Purple a bum cover illustrated by John Vernon Lord

Afterwards sat on the green between the museum and the church to eat our packed lunch. The day had started overcast and a bit drizzly, but was now improving. We visited the church, and then sat outside a pub with our pots of tea (very civilised) and relaxed. By the time we got back to Brighton, the sun was fully out and had chased away all the clouds.

St John’s Church Ditchling
Ditchling village
There are some very old buildings in Ditchling

We ate out that evening – no cooking, no washing up.

The next day was leaving day. The time had flown by. It was a leisurely start and then we packed up. We decided to do a short detour before coming back and headed from West Sussex over the border into East Sussex to Seaford. Seaford has a flat seafront, but then at the end you have the cliffs, which we have walked over before. There is a fantastic museum in a martello tower, which isn’t often open, but was that day (we have visited once before). We sat on the seafront with our rolls and crisps and then took a short stroll before stopping at a seafront cafe for a cup of tea. The day was perfect. The earlier clouds had vanished quickly this morning, and the sky was blue and the sun hot. Reluctantly, it was time to leave. Just two nights away makes all the difference. I was more relaxed and with good company. We had plenty of laughs and plenty of memories to take home.

Goodbye Marina (view from the balcony)
Seaford
The cliffs at Seaford
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