48 hours in Sussex

Looking towards Rottingdean (Roedean School on the cliffs)

It’s amazing what you can fit into forty-eight hours! And boy, we were lucky with the weather.

A friend had invited me to stay with her at her apartment at Brighton Marina for two nights. I have been many times before, but this might be the last as she is thinking of selling after fifteen years of it being a family bolt hole. Circumstances change and all that. My family have borrowed it twice as well and I shall be sorry not to visit again. We made the most of it!

The day we arrived, the weather was beautiful, having left London in spots and spits of rain. This is often the case. Once over the South Downs weather can change rapidly. We dumped our stuff, nipped to Asda for some provisions, and returned to the apartment to eat our lunch. Then it was time for a stroll. We headed off along the lower cliff path towards Rottingdean. The tide was in and the heat of the sun was reflecting back on us from the white chalk cliffs. The lower cliff path attracts joggers and cyclists (you can hire bikes nearby) and is flat. The sea was still (sometimes) crashing over the wall, and we nearly got caught.

The tide is high!

The sea looked so inviting on such a hot day, and I was tempted to go in and paddle. There were a few stretches where sand made an appearance between the stones, and quite a few people (as well a dog) were out swimming. As we neared Rottingdean the urge to paddle grew stronger. I knew if I didn’t do this now, I probably wouldn’t get another chance. So we went down the steps on onto the beach. My friend, who at first said she’d photograph it, decided to join me (I lead her into all sorts!). Off came the shoes and sandals and into the sea we went. Actually, the sea was warm once the initial wash-over the feet came. It felt refreshing. It was just great.

Come in, the water is lovely

After sitting on the beach to dry our feet, it was onwards up the steps to Rottingdean itself. This is a favourite place of mine. It was the home of Rudyard Kipling and Edward Burne Jones for a time, and there is a Burne Jones stained glass window in the church. It is a lovely village with a green, pond and beautiful gardens, once belonging to Kipling, which is free to explore. This time we didn’t get into the village, just to a shop that sold ice creams. I was impressed to find they had two vegan choices.

Coming back we walked along the upper cliff where you can spot the windmill and the breeze is very welcome.

Ditchling Windmill
The upper and lower paths (Brighton Marina in the distance)
The Marina from the upper path
An evening stroll along the Marina

The following day we had tickets for Ditchling Museum, so we set off in plenty of time in order to find somewhere to park. We were a little early, so we had cup of tea before going in. The man associated with the place is Eric Gill, an artist lived in Ditchling with his family. Later the abusive relationships he had with his daughters made it difficult for the museum to know how to approach his art in light of this.

John Vernon Lord – notebook
Illustrations for his children’s book, The Jam Sandwich

There were some exhibits of his on show, but less than I had expected. However, the exhibition we saw was works by John Vernon Lord. He is a fascinating illustrator, especially his notebooks. The tiny writing and intricate drawings were just mind boggling. He is obsessed with numbers, and he uses a stop watch throughout the day. He knows how long he takes to complete a picture. John Lord has illustrated works by Edward Lear, Lewis Carroll and James Joyce, as well as writing and illustrating children’s books. There is video interview which makes great viewing.

An illustration of a flat he lived in in London

I had never heard of John Vernon Lord before this exhibition, but was totally knocked out by his work. I found that he also illustrated an album cover for Deep Purple, a record I have in my collection! This was a wonderful exhibition.

Deep Purple a bum cover illustrated by John Vernon Lord

Afterwards sat on the green between the museum and the church to eat our packed lunch. The day had started overcast and a bit drizzly, but was now improving. We visited the church, and then sat outside a pub with our pots of tea (very civilised) and relaxed. By the time we got back to Brighton, the sun was fully out and had chased away all the clouds.

St John’s Church Ditchling
Ditchling village
There are some very old buildings in Ditchling

We ate out that evening – no cooking, no washing up.

The next day was leaving day. The time had flown by. It was a leisurely start and then we packed up. We decided to do a short detour before coming back and headed from West Sussex over the border into East Sussex to Seaford. Seaford has a flat seafront, but then at the end you have the cliffs, which we have walked over before. There is a fantastic museum in a martello tower, which isn’t often open, but was that day (we have visited once before). We sat on the seafront with our rolls and crisps and then took a short stroll before stopping at a seafront cafe for a cup of tea. The day was perfect. The earlier clouds had vanished quickly this morning, and the sky was blue and the sun hot. Reluctantly, it was time to leave. Just two nights away makes all the difference. I was more relaxed and with good company. We had plenty of laughs and plenty of memories to take home.

Goodbye Marina (view from the balcony)
Seaford
The cliffs at Seaford

Whitstable – On the coastline in Kent

Whitstable Harbour

Whitstable is one of those places I’ve always wanted to visit, so on Thursday I finally took the train from London down to Kent. The harbour is a small working harbour, and there are also shacks selling all kinds of things I associate with Christmas markets, except it’s not Christmas goods!

The shacks

I decided to walk along by the sea towards Seasalter. On the way, I passed many colourful houses, seaside accommodation, and beach huts. It was so much quieter away from the busy harbour area, and much more to my liking. As I walked away from the crowds I spotted the oyster beds off shore. Whitstable has incredible shells. They are huge. I bought a few home with me!

Oyster beds
Shells galore!
Brightly coloured houses overlooking the sea
Beach huts
Lunch stop

At Seasalter I left the sea for a while to go in search of a Co-op, I’d spotted on my map, in order to buy some lunch, there being no cafes open here. Once I had my lunch, I walked back to the sea and ate on the beach before walking back to Whitstable. I went into the town itself with its brightly painted shops, tea shops and pubs. With narrow pavements, it can be slow going. Some of the buildings are really old. However, soon I wanted to get back to the sea.

Whitstable Town
Get your oysters here!

I particularly wanted to walk on the other side of the harbour towards Tankerton Bay, but it took me a while to find how to get there. The works by the harbour take up a lot of space, and it feels as though you are walking through an industrial site to get back to the sea. However, once I sorted out the way, I was soon walking along by the sea again. Here there are more colourful beach huts, a yatch club and Tankerton Slopes, rich in wildlife. I found a cafe for afternoon tea and sat on the top of the slopes. What a lovely view in both directions over the beach huts. Looking towards the right, I could see Herne Bay in the distance.

The Yatch Club
Beach huts on Tankerton Slopes

I walked back along the top path where I came across two cannons, and eventually Whitstable Castle Gardens. The gardens are just gorgeous, and I found it the most peaceful place. Everything was so colourful. It is possible to book for afternoon tea, and I am sure it is lovely, but I was happy just to sit in the gardens by the bowling green.

Canons and looking towards Herne Bay
Whitstable Castle Gardens
Whitstable Castle Gardens

I walked about eleven and a half miles that day. While Whitstable is great for a day trip, I don’t think this would be somewhere I’d want to holiday in. I’m not sure I’d find enough to do, though you can get out to other places, such as Canterbury, and along the coast to such places as Herne Bay, Margate and Ramsgate. The walking is very good, and flat (apart from the slopes in Tankerton), and if you are crazy on seafood, then that is the place to come and eat! For me, the highlight of the day was visiting the gardens. On walking through the gates, a calmness swept over me.

Whitstable Castle Gardens

A day out of London

The big wheel, Eastbourne, Sussex

On Tuesday I visited my brother who lives a few miles inland from Eastbourne. I was a little worried about how busy the train would be, but it was quiet. It was my brother’s birthday. He’d have been on his own and I felt it important to be there. I remember how much of damp squib my birthday was while we were deep in lockdown.

After lunch at my brother’s house we went into Eastbourne. There is something to be said for a seaside town not swamped by people like in Brighton. I guess people still associate Eastbourne with the older generation (which of course my brother and I are), but I’ve always loved the place. I felt quite safe, and we even took a stroll on the beach so I could get some close up photos and take a video.

At present Eastbourne has a big wheel, which I believe is staying now until the end of August. I treated us to a ride on it. That was great fun and really made the day. We wandered along the seafront, had a cuppa, and just enjoyed the sunshine. It was a beautiful day, so wonderful to be by the seaside again. This was the best day out this year.

Near the Holywell Cafe
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