River Thames – My London+

Shadwell, Wapping & Limehouse

Fingerpost along the Thames Path

Last week I spent two nights in Limehouse at The Royal Foundation of St Katherine’s, a Retreat House and B&B. I stayed there once before a few years before Covid in order to walk part of the Regent’s Canal and Limehouse Cut. This time my main reason for staying was to see a singing duo, Ben and Dom, perform in the chapel at the Retreat House. I have seen them perform live before and their harmonies blend so well. I sing in a choir and these two chaps are former choir leaders of that choir. Since leaving, a few of us have followed their careers. They lead other choirs, sing with other groups and write and sing together. So here is my promo! Have a look at this video.

So, that’s what I was doing in Limehouse. However, whenever I go away, I’m always looking for new walks. I packed everything I needed into a rucksack and set off. Before arriving in Limehouse, I took a slight detour to Shadwell where I would walk to Wapping.

A little info about St Katherine’s

My first stop was Cable Street mural. This commemorates the time when Sir Oswald Mosley and his Fascists intended to march through Shadwell. The residents, Jews and Irish Catholic banded together and set up barriers to stop them. Fighting broke out between them and the police, and Mosley was asked to cancel the event.

Cable Street mural, Shadwell

Not far from there is St George-in-the-East church, built in 1723, but badly damaged in the Blitz. Only the outer walls and tower survive.

St George-in-the-East

The gravestones, with an unusual one at the end. See below.

Inside the church

The tower

Walking further down towards the Thames, I came to Tobacco Dock, built between 1811 and 1813 and used to store tobacco, tea and spices. When it was closed, the dock was converted into a shopping centre, but that too has gone, and it is mainly empty now. I was unable to find a way in through gates mentioned in the guide book, and wonder if this is due to the book being slightly out of date. There are apartment blocks surrounding it now, but I saw a fountain through one gate.

Tobacco Dock

A nod to the past – Tobacco Dock

And then a couple of interesting sights nearby:

This pub was supposed to have been given to the artist, Turner!

There is no church of St John’s in Wapping now (well, not this one). Only the churchyard remains. However, there is evidence of the charity attached to the old church over the road from the churchyard.

St John’s Churchyard

I was now close to the Thames and old dock warehouses (converted into apartments) came into view.

Oliver’s Wharf, Wapping

And here we are at Wapping Old Stairs beside the pub, The Town of Ramsgate. At low tide you can go down onto the shore, but be careful, the steps are green and slimy, making them slippery. To left of the stairs is Execution Dock, used for 400 years and where those convicted of piracy were executed and left for three full tides.

I then took the Overground back to Shadwell where I changed to the DLR for one stop to Limehouse for my stay. Above is a photo of the gardens at St Katherine’s, and the chapel is where the big windows are to the left. Once I unpacked, I went to the Yurt Cafe for a lovely lunch of lentil stew and rice. The Yurt Cafe is part of The Precinct and outreach to the community in Limehouse by the Royal Foundation of St Katherine’s. The food is good!

The Yurt Cafe

After lunch. I took a stroll around Limehouse Basin and the area in general.

Limehouse Basin

River Thames, and to the right is Gordon Ramsey’s restaurant.

Thames Path fingerposts

The Grapes on Narrow Street is owned in partnership with actor Sir Ian McKellen

Narrow Street, Limehouse.

Herring Gull

Ropemakers Fields

Banstand – Ropemakers Fields

Urban Limehouse

Lock at Limehouse

Limehouse

Typical older housing, Limehouse

Old water pressure tower. This used to regulate the water for the cranes, swing bridges and locks in Limehouse Basin.

This was the end of my first day. In the next blog I will be visiting the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in Stratford to relive old memories!

From my Archive: Thames River Cruise

20181201_141419 — Our Thames Cruise boat

Circumstances and bad weather have prevented me from walking or visitng places in the last seven days, so I have delved into my archive of photos to find something for this weeks blog.

Back in 2018 I booked for me and my husband to go on Thames River Cruise from Westminster Pier to Greenwich and back. What sparked my interest particularly was the part about the Frost Fairs which I had become obsessed with. These fairs took place between 1600 and 1814 when the River Thames became iced over. The ice was so thick that tents were set up on it, food was cooked and sold, musicians would play and games took place. Once even an elephant walked across! Frost Fairs were the highlight of those winter years.

20181201_160303 — Greenwich showing Greenwich Foot tunnel (with the dome) and The Cutty Sark

The ice formed due to the old London Bridge which had many piers over the river, jamming up the flow of the river as ice formed. The river froze and people took advantage of this and set up stalls for food and entertainment. To learn more and see some old pictures depicting those times have a read of this article.

Just to set the scene for Frost Fairs, we boarded the boat on a late afternoon in December, and it was windy! Of course the Thames is nothing like it was back then. And later the river became narrower when civil engineer Joseph Bazelgette’s sewer system was put in, reclaiming some of the Thames to instal it. Today we have the lovely Embankment Gardens which also would not be there because the river would have been.

20181201_162838 — Going under Tower Bridge

Now we have lots of skyscrapers, particularly around Canary Wharf, and the dockside warehouses have been converted into luxury apartments and restuarants and shops. It’s hard to imagine what the river would have looked like back then. If you visit St Magnus the Martyr on the north side of London Bridge you can see a replica of what London Bridge looked like with shops lining the length of it. See photos here.

20181201_162847 — Tower of London , right

We had two well informed ladies who spoke about the River Thames in London and its past. Maps and other information were available for each of us to take away afterwards. I think one of the ladies was from the Museum of London. A few people braved going up on deck, but I wanted to hear all about the Thames and Frost Fairs first. We even had a chance to ask questions, so I wanted to know how far the ice extended up river. It sometimes extended as far as Lambeth Bridge. It must have been quite a sight! Of course there were accidents, people fell through ice that wasn’t thick enough. Also this was a great place for pickpockets to operate.

20181201_163046 — Looking back at Tower Bridge with HMS Belfast to the right

Once we reached Greenwich, the sky had darkened considerably. It was now time to brave the wind on the deck. So we stood up there all the way back, which is when I took the majority of my photos. I also took a few videos, but the movement of the boat made most fuzzy, so I came away with one video which I was happy with.

If you get a chance to join one of these cruises you will learn a lot about how the river worked in bygone days and maybe get a flavour of old London.

The Highlights of Barnes (aka tombs and memorials)

Barnes Pond

This blog post is hot off the press as I only walked it this morning. The day was bright but cold. Enough to freeze my fingers. The walk, from the AA book Walking London, begins at Barnes Station and ends at Barnes Bridge Station. The duration of the walk is about five and half miles.

The first stopping point was Marc Bolan‘s memorial off Queen’s Ride. I’d wanted to visit for years, as being a bit of a T Rex fan back in the 70’s. I remember it was quite a shock when he died in a car crash on this road. So this was a bit of a pilgrimage for me.

The memorial is bigger than I imagined. Many fan pictures are left here. Obviously this is still well used. I would think there would be a gathering on important days, like his birthday or the anniversay of his death. I was pleased to finally see it.

The instructions for the first part of this walk were not that helpful, but to be fair it wasn’t an easy route across the common with things like ‘look for the low growing trees, and the lone bush.’ We did find Barnes old cemetery, but more with the help of the roads crossing the common. We didn’t necessarily go the way that was indicated, only because it was confusing from the description. Once at the cemetery the walk became easier to follow.

Barnes Cemetery

I had been through part of the cemetery some years ago on a walk following the route of Beverley Brook, but this was a different part. There is something about old graveyards that I like. Far from feeling eerie (as mentioned in the book), I find it peaceful.

A grave of note is Alexander Joseph Finberg, an author and artist. I could not find a photgraph of him online, or much detail about him, though there are plenty of sites with some detail.

Here is a map of the Beverly Brook walk which croses Barnes Common and the cemetery before flowing into the River Thames.

And here is Beverley Brook.

And another map!

Barnes Pond

We stopped by the pond and had a hot drink and cake at Barnes Theatre. A chance to refuel and get warm before the last part of the walk. We set off again and took a look at Milbourne House once owned by Henry Fielding, author of Tom Jones. This is the oldest building in Barnes, some of which dates from the 1400’s. We then headed down to the Thames Path.

Low tide at Barnes

Barnes Bridge

Along The Terrace opposite the River Thames we came across two more houses with blue plaques (which for some reason were not mentioned in the guide book). The first is the house of Gustav Holst, composer. He was the first classical composer whose work I ever really heard and liked. I was about ten at the time. The piece I heard was Jupiter from The Planets. Later I bought the LP. He has hall named after him at Morley College in Lambeth (I’ve been inside it). He either taught or played there.

Gustav Holts house

The next house, a little further down the road, was once where Dame Ninette De Valois, founder of the Royal Ballet, lived. (see below)

Now for something quite extraordinary, and worth this walk alone. In the churchyard of St Mary Magdalen is the tomb of Sir Richard Burton. No, not the actor, but the Victorian explorer and linguist. The stone tomb is a replica of a Bedouin tent and is adorned with Islamic crescents and moons. And, as if that isn’t enough, if you go round the back of the tomb there is a ladder up which you can view from the top, through the window, the coffins of Burton and his wife. This is something not to be missed.

The tomb stands 12ft square by 18ft high.

The ladder. Go on, I know you want to look. Come with me!

The two coffins

The coffins are surrounded by artifacts such as lamps and helmets.

Other graves in the churchyard

The final stop was St Mary the Virgin church, which luckily was open. It has a lovely stone arch and on the first staturday of the month you can go up the bell tower.

The archway

The church of St Mary the Virgin, Barnes

Inside the church

Stained glass window

Over the main doors

If you are into fish dining, Rick Stein has a restuarant close to the river.

And finally something for you to go ‘Ahh’ about. Three baby Egyptian ducks on the steps by the River Thames.

This was one of the strangest walks I’ve ever done, but great fun. Yes, we nearly got lost at the start of the walk, but we made it and was well worth going out on a cold, cold day.

Three London Churches, a square and a river

St Etheldreda’s. Ely Place

I set out with a vague idea of a route, but at least I had one specific place to visit. Flicking through London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts, I came across St Etheldreda’s, Farringdon. It was open on a Mondon (yay!) and had a crypt. The photos of it (and a look on their website) convinced me I must see it.

The church is off Ely Place, a gated cul-de-sac, off Holborn Circus and the nearest tube station is Chancery Lane. The church dates from 1252 and is the only Pre-Reformation church still in Catholic use. We get the term ‘night on the tiles’ from the tiled cloister as the Bishop gave a five-day party here for King Henry VIII, and it was here that the King discussed divorce from Catherine of Aragon with Archbishop Cranmer.

Ely Place

I had the whole of the church to myself. The large stained glass window just inside the main church was so huge that I couldn’t stand back far enough to frame the whole thing in my camera (I only had my mobile and it doesn’t have a wide-angle lens). The church has some wonderful stained glass windows.

The Nave

Altar window

Looking back

I walked down to The Crypt, which was very dimly lit. It seemed to be a place for storage and a sometimes cafe, maybe a performance space. However, there were some modern stained glass windows and statues.

In the crypt

A view from the steps coming out of the church towards the main entrance and the crypt to the left.

From St Etheldreda’s, I noticed a couple of other churches on the other side of Holborn Circus. I thought I’d see if they were open. The first was St Andrew, Holborn, an Anglican Church worshipping in the Catholic Style (High Anglican!). It also features (as I was later to discover) in London’s 100 Best Churches.

This is a very light church, very open and spacious, with a glorious ceiling. A gallery surrounds the nave. The church claims to have had people worshipping on the site for over 1,000 years. There is a wonderful timeline history on the website. Do take a look.

What stood out for me was the small altar with mother and child with the gold surround. Astonishing.

The nave with gallery.

The organ loft

This church holds the tomb of Thomas Coram, the founder of The Foundling Hospital, which I have visited in the past.

The tomb of Thomas Coram

This art work is over the door leading into the church.

Coming out of the church I walked and crossed Holborn Viaduct.

View from Holborn Viaduct

I don’t know much about architecture, though I studied a bit of Roman and Greek, which there is a lot of in London as it is considered classic. Just look at all the columns in London’s old buildings. However, new designs can sometimes be very photogenic, like the one in the photo above.

The final church I visited was Holy Sepulchre. I don’t know why this church isn’t featured in London’s 100 Best Churches, because I think it should.

Holy Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct.

I was delighted to find out it is the musicians’ church, and has a dedicated Musicians’ Chapel. I spent some time in there enjoying the surroundings and the wonderful kneelers, each one representing a different composer.

The chapel also holds the ashes of Sir Henry Wood. He learned to play organ here before going on to study at the Royal Academy of Music. His father sang tenor in the choir. There is a window dedicated to Sir Henry Wood and a memorial book to musicians.

Musicians’ Chapel

Organ loft

Here was another interesting detail. There is a replica of the bell beside this plaque, but there was so much reflection I couldn’t take a photo of it.

The Royal Fusiliers Chapel (City of London Regiment)

Font

My aim now was to wander down to Paternoster Square, and as I walked I realised I’d been here before a couple of times. Greyfriars sits close to St Paul’s. What remains of the Greyfriats has been turned into a pocket garden.

Greyfriars

I had come to Paternoster Square where I wanted to see a fairly new art work, The Wild Table of Love. I’m sure I’ve read this is a temporary installation, but I may be wrong about this. However, it was great to see it, and a good excuse to end my visit in this place.

Around the edge of the square there are restaurants and cafes. I took a break at Pret before taking in the rest of the square.

This is the installation I had come to see.

St Paul’s Cathedral

I nipped into the Salvation Arm Cafe by the Millennium Bridge for a cup of tea and a cookie.

Crossing the Millennium Bridge I was now going to walk back to Waterloo along Southbank.

Here you can see The Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.

This is one of my favourite spots to take a photo. I never tire of this view across the bridge.

This really speaks to me.

Outside the Hayward Gallery, Southbank

I really enjoyed this day out. I found some marvelous churches I had not set out to see and learned new things. Sometimes keeping plans loose can lead you into some very interesting places. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.

Wimbledon Bookfest and a trip down the River Thames

Every year on Wimbledon Common the tents go up and Bookfest is here. It used to be just once a year, in the autumn, but now there is one in June too. I’ve been to quite a few events over the years, and bought a number of books as well. Authors I have seen include Tracy Chevalier (Girl with a Pearl Earing), John Lanchester (The Wall and Capital) Jessie Burton (The Miniturist), Chrisy Lefteri (The Beekeeper of Aleppo) and Karen Armstrong (Through a Narrow Gate and History of God).

This year I had signed up for three events. My first was all about William Morris and his wife Jane. Now there’s a surprise! William Morris has connections with the Borough of Merton, so there is even a tent on the common in his name, always my favourite tent! The author of this book How We Might Live: At Home with Jane and WIlliam Morris, tells the story more from Jane’s perspective. In life, Jane is known more for her affair with Rossetti than anything else. But she was a beautiful embroiderer, artistic model and a great hostess. I shall look forward to reading her account. After William, died I want to know what happened to Jane.

Suzanne Fagence Cooper – author of How We Might Live

The second event was writer/journalist Tim Marshall. He writes political and world affairs and I have read his Divided in the past. He spoke about two of his other books, about how the world is changing, the geography of countries and the situation between Ukraine and Russia. I couldn’t decide which of his books to buy, so I didn’t buy either. This just means they are on my mental list of books to buy in the future! He is an engaging speaker and writer, and explains things at a level I can understand. I’m not a big reader of world affairs at all, but his books have helped me understand the world.

The last event I booked was the stand out one as far as I was concerned. This was held in my favourite tent (William Morris) and consisted of a workshop followed by a walk on Wimbledon Common hunting wildflowers. Botanist Leif Bersweden explained how he came to write his book Where The Wild Flowers Grow and has spent a lot of time on the common (his parents live here). Leif took us onto the common on a very hot day and promised to keep us in the shade as much possible. Two stewards accompanied us carrying bottled water, should we need them.

Leif made the walk so interesting and had little stories about each flower he found for us. I particularly loved the Pineapple plant which, if you squeeze the flower heads, smell of pineapple. They really do! I began to realise how more enjoyable it is to identify flowers and plants during a walk. How much more you get out of a walk just knowing these things. I made notes of all the flowers Leif found (I wouldn’t have remembered otherwise) so I could identify them when I loaded up my photos. I feel this is something I need to look into more and could do with a good book on identification.

Roseday Willowhurt also known as Firebomb as it grew on bomb sites in the war

When we arrived back we each received a copy of Leif’s book (included in the price of the ticket), which he signed individually for us. The event was uplifting and not ‘over my head’ as I wondered if it might be. Leif made everything accessible and was willing to answer questions we had.

Walking across the common – Leif is in the front wearing a black tee shirt

On the Thames

The day after was an even hotter one. I met a friend in London and bought lunch to eat in the gardens near Embankment tube station. Afterwards, we set off to Westminster Pier where we boarded a Thames Cruise to Greenwich. Both of us have Freedom Passes which gave us a great discount on the return fare. We sat on the top deck in the sun and enjoyed seeing London from the river. We had a commentary, though our guy is not an official Tour Guide. However, he was most amusing. We spent a little time at Greenwich, mostly drinking (cold for my friend and tea for me!), sitting the shade near the Maritime Museum. We then caught the boat back into London, and we had the same guide, which was fun.

Viking Cruise ship coming into Greenwich to dock. This is as far as they can go. The water is deepest here, about 70 feet.

Outside the Information Centre, Greenwich

Mock-up of a seaman’s hospital room (Info Centre)

Emery Walker’s House, 7 Hammersmith Terrace

You are probably saying, ‘Who is Emery Walker?’ Well, he was a printer, engraver, and photographer (1851-1933). He was also a close friend of William Morris, who lived a short walk away at Kelmscott House. Yet the two met accidentally on a train coming home from Bethnal Green after a political meeting. They hit it off and later set up the Hammersmith Socialist League, a branch of the Socialist Democratic Federation (forerunner of the Labour Party) in 1883. The men also discovered they both had an interest in printing.

Emery Walker’s start in life was very different. At 13, he became the main breadwinner of the family as his father went blind. He stuck out a job as an apprentice to a linen draper for many years. He hated it. It wasn’t until he changed jobs and worked for Alfred Dawson’s Typographic Etching Company that he found his true vocation. In 1885, he went into partnership with a colleague, Walter Boutall as Walker & Boutall Automatic & Process Engravers (later Emery Walker Ltd) and specialised in fine printing, engraving and photography.

It was to Emery Walker that William Morris turned when he wanted to produce books. Morris was a master at many things in life, but typeface wasn’t one of them. When Morris formed the Kelmscott Press, he asked Walker to join him. Walker declined, but his help was invaluable.

Originally Emery Walker lived at 3 Hammersmith Terrace. He had longed to live in this terrace, but the first house was a little too small. He lived there with his wife Mary Grace and his daughter Dorothy (1878-1963). This house, and number 7 where he moved in 1879, were rented to Walker, though later he bought number 7. Mary Grace Walker suffered illness throughout her life and spent a greater part of her life living at a property she owned in Surrey.

The house at 7 Hammersmith Terrace is unique in that when the last person living at the house (Dorothy’s companion Elizabeth de Hass died (1918-1999)), it passed to a trust she had set up for the property herself. Everything you see in the house is original. The only alterations carried out by the trust were to remove the kitchen (which was the telephone room and is now the reception for guided tours). The kitchen was moved from the basement when Dorothy was living there. As a town house, it has many floors, and at seventy-years old she wanted to make life easier for herself. She also installed a bathroom. The basement was converted into a flat, which was rented out. This is still the case.

There is no photography allowed inside the house (you can take photos in the garden), but the website is excellent and you can explore everything through photographs of both the rooms and objects of note inside. Please do explore the website here. There is much more information too about the house, people and their relationships. There is also a virtual tour.

For me, this was an amazing tour. Being a huge William Morris fan (have I mentioned that before?!), it was wonderful to see original wallpaper on the walls, and a line of photographs of William Morris. The most touching thing was a drawer in Walker’s bureau, which held some items of Morris’, including several pairs of glasses, a dish (possibly for ink) and a lock of William Morris’ hair which was taken on the day he died.

Furniture in the house is a mix of arts and craft and older things, but a greater part belonged to Philip Webb, another close friend, and architect of Kelmscott Manor (Morris’ house in Gloucestershire). The rooms are stunning, and I could happily move in tomorrow!

There is an exhibition space in the room adjoining the drawing room. Currently, this is about the Doves Press which Walker set up with Thomas Cobden-Sanderson originally from number 1 Hammersmith Terrace, and named after The Dove public house set between Walker and Morris’ house (the pub is still there and overlooks the River Thames). The Doves type is modern in appearance and is based on a 15th century Venetian model. You can read all about it here. It is a fascinating story. Basically, the two men owned the type together, but Cobden-Sanderson worried that when he died Walker would use it to produce books not of the same high literature, Cobden-Sanderson, over a period of a few months, threw the type over Hammersmith Bridge into the Thames. Parts of it have recently been recovered from the river, and the exhibition holds a piece of it to view. The exhibition is about to close, but you can still view pieces of Doves Press type on the website, and there is a video too.

The dining room and the drawing room have views over the River Thames, as does the bedroom which was Dorothy’s, and later Elizabeth de Hass. Emery Walker’s bedroom was in the attic, which is now offices.

The garden is beautiful, and immediately you walk out from the conservatory, the fragrance hits you. Originally, this would have been the front of the house, as there was a small walkway along the back of these houses. Later, the walkways were incorporated into the gardens and the entrances switched from back to the front of the houses.

The garden. On the left hand side is number 8, where May Morris lived.

At number 8 Hammersmith Terrace, May Morris (William Morris’ daughter) lived, and worked with her embroideries. It was not a very happy house, due to the gradual breakdown on May’s marriage to Henry Halliday Sparling (who William Morris referred to as ‘the drip’! He never minced his words).

I came away from this house utterly overwhelmed by it. It has a great atmosphere and the furnishings and decorations are beautiful.

View of the Thames from the garden, looking towards Hammersmith.

The garden looking towards the basement, once the kitchen.

After leaving the house, I set out to find Thomas Cobden-Sanderson’s house. I walked past it twice before I recognised it because it is clad in scaffolding and overgrown foliage. But there is Blue Plaque. I wonder what is going to happen to the house. It would be good if it was opened to the public, but I guess it depends on what is left of it inside.

Also in the terrace is the house of Edward Johnston who designed the type for London Underground. This seems to be a great area for artists and crafters. On my way back I saw a house once lived in by Eric Ravilious, and into Chiswick there is Hogarth’s House, which I have visited in the past.

Looking towards Hammersmith Bridge where Doves type was thrown into the river by Cobden-Sanderson.

Covent Garden, Museum of Freemasonry, Lincoln’s Inn & Fleet Street

It has been many years since I last explored Covent Garden, and it turned out that the area had much more to offer than I first realised. It’s great when you can find new and exciting things in your own home city.

As always (well, mostly) my walk began by the River Thames. I’d left it last in Henley, and here I was back in London, the part of the river I know most. Let me take you now on a journey through markets, an actors’ church, the world of Freemasonry and the land of law.

Crossing over Waterloo Bridge, I turned onto The Strand and then Aldwych, coming off at Drury Lane and working my way into Covent Garden from that direction.

A famous hotel on my way to Covent Garden

Toyed with the idea of visiting The London Transport Museum, but I’d not booked and decided I wanted to explore other things today.

Pollocks Theatre Toy Shop, Covent Garden

I came across to Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, known as the actors church. The church is hidden away on the other side of the outside courtyard.

I set off towards Neal Street, a very pretty road. I particularly wanted to find Neal’s Yard, which I remember from many years back. I don’t think I had been to Neal’s Yard since I was in my 20’s!

This area is part of Seven Dials and you can read about its history here, along with the theatres and markets, shops and even a map.

Neal’s Yard. Can there be a more pretty place?

Back on to Neal Street, I found The Astrology Shop, which was worth a look at.

Off on my walk again, I’d seen a tall building in the distance, and I wanted to check it out. It looked church-like. On the noticeboard it said cafe, and where there is a cafe there are toilets (usually). This looked promising. I sought out the entrance and was surprised to find myself outside The Museum of Freemasonry. The building is open to all, and is free. So, I thought, why not? I might learn something! It was actually an astounding building with an informative museum, library, huge shop (all upstairs), and on the ground floor is the cafe, and yes, there are toilets!

The outside of Freemason’s Hall on Great Queen Street

I think I should have written a blog post just about the Freemason’s Museum, for it is a splendid place, and really worth a look. I knew very little about Freemasons other than the jokes about dodgy handshakes and rolled-up trouser legs! It seems they can take the mickey out of themselves (always a good sign!). Staff were nice and helpful, though I did find myself doing ‘spot the freemason’! Down in the cafe (very reasonably priced menu and drinks and worth going in just for the cafe – subsidised?) there were some very well dressed people (was I underdressed?).

Well-stocked shop. Yes, I did buy a book (not this one) with a general overview of history and basic facts about the Freemasons

Leaving Freemason’s Hall behind, I set off for Lincoln’s Inn, a place I used to visit from time to time when I was a teenager. One of my jobs was delivering Briefs to Counsel (or Advice to Counsel). This involved hand delivering (I wonder if that still happens?) to Barrister’s Chambers. I still remember the buildings – the clerks in dark offices, the pigeonholes, the rooms stuffed with documents bound in pink ribbon. Much has changed since those days. I expect everything goes by email now. Back in those times, documents used to be typed on parchment paper (Wills and Leases). It took two people to check for mistakes (one reading the other with the draft), and the documents were sewn up. For me (who hated sewing, and still do), sewing documents was actually something I quite liked. Documents were sewn in green tape (and once or twice even sealed with wax!). Documents going to Counsel where bound together with pink tape. The names of the squares now came back to me – Stone Buildings, New Square. However, there was another surprise – Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, which luckily was open. What a magnificence place!

For a little about the history and buildings do read this.

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel – I was literary gobsmacked at this place

Barristers’ Chambers with a list of their names (several work in the same building)

They go in for tall and narrow here! Fleet Street

From Fleet Street I entered the Strand and eventually came back on to the River Thames on the north bank at Victoria Embankment. This had been a fantastic walk. A bit of a walk down memory lane for me, and with surprising finds. Highlights for me were the Freemason’s Hall, Lincoln’s Inn Chapel and the wonder of those buildings in Lincoln’s Inn. How regal! I hope you have enjoyed the journey too.

Thames Path Walk – Maidenhead to Henley-on-Thames

This walk was a dummy run for my friend and I to see if we could (a) walk two sections of the Thames Path on consecutive days, and (b) walk carrying all we needed for the trip. We arrived from London late Tuesday afternoon and stayed overnight in a hotel. After breakfast we set off to walk the first leg to Marlow. The distance was around eight miles, though we ended up doing more than that as we had a stop at Cookham to enjoy the village.

The morning began overcast, and occasionally we encountered a few spots of rain. There were some dramatic skies, but we were lucky. While walking, we had no rain. The path was easy and the views beautiful.

The first notable place is Boulter’s Lock. There are some huge houses along this stretch of the Thames Path. Some, we assumed, were hotels or apartments. One was up for sale or rent. Tempting, but I could never afford it!

Behind the trees on the opposite bank is Cliveden House, the former home of the Astor family. Unfortunately, we were unable to see the house from our side, but the grounds were extensive.

A lovely tree lined section of the river

Shortly afterwards, we came to Cookham where we stopped to enjoy the Stanley Spencer Gallery. I had been before, but not my friend. The gallery is small, but the paintings are stunning. Spencer lived in Cookham for most of his life and all his paintings (apart from some he painted during the war) are set in Cookham. Though not religious, he painted a number of religious scenes. His house is on the main street (blue plaque) and there is a war memorial with his brother’s name on it. Spencer was one of nine children.

An unfinished painting – The Stanley Spencer Gallery

Holy Trinity Church is nearby and inside there is a replica of The Last Supper by Stanley Spencer. Outside in the graveyard is the headstone where the artist was buried. Somehow, I missed this the last time I was here.

Leaving Cookham behind (after a cuppa in a local cafe) we headed towards Bourne End. This meant crossing over the river where shortly be came to Bourne End Marina.

Eventually, we came into Marlow, our second overnight stop. We had carried all we needed in our rucksacks and had made it, and without getting wet!

After we’d settled into our rooms and had that all important cup of tea and a rest, we went for a stroll before dinner. The sky looked threatening by then, and while we nipped into WHSmith the heavens opened. We stood at the door waiting for the shower to pass, which it did. I unfurled my brolly, but when we came outside, the rain stopped. So we carried on with our exploring before enjoying a tasty, and well-deserved meal.

Marlow is all set for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations

Our hotel was part of the George & Dragon

Before leaving the next morning we took a look at St Luke’s church, and then walked over Marlow Bridge just because it is so impressive!

Another view from the bank where we set off for Henley

This next section was a particularly beautiful stretch, and we first came across Bisham Church.

There are lots of tributaries to the River Thames here, which means lots of little footbridges

This was a day of bridges (three to cross in all), animals (cattle, butterflies and Red Kites). It was an extraordinary day of contrasts, and the sun even came out!

Goslings enjoying the sunshine – Hurley Riverside Park

Eventually we had to come off the river and walk through a deer park and Culham Court. We were by then dreaming of a sit down and cuppa!

The grounds are extensive to Culham Court and the deer park, but this is private land, so one has to stick to paths. There is a Chapel built on the hill. You can see and read about that here.

This is perhaps my favourite view of this walk.

We were now nearing Aston and the prospect of that well-earned cuppa was upper mind in our thoughts, so it was with great relief to cross the field (above) and come across The Flowerpot Pub.

Never have I seen so many stuffed fish behind glass!

We sat in the pub garden and were amazed by Red Kites riding the thermals and darting down. They came close by, and I counted six together at one time. I have never seen them close up before and fell in love with them. Their colouring is beautiful.

Eventually, we dragged ourselves away. We had the last stretch of the Thames to walk. Refreshed, we set off.

Next door to the pub we found a whole selection of birds – chickens, doves, even a couple of peacocks!

We had arrived! We had a celebration drink at the Leander Rowing Club. My friend cheeky asked if we would be allowed in. Apparently, non-members could drink on the terrace, so in we went! We found a table right by the river and enjoyed the view and the sunshine. We didn’t want to go home. Over twenty twenty miles in two days we had walked, and now it felt like it! When we eventually roused ourselves, it was on stiff legs and I had a blister on the ball of my left foot. But we were happy, and proud of ourselves for this achievement. We are already planning our next walk!

Two visits to Richmond in a week

The weather here last week was dreadful. That and a tube strike in London on two days meant I had to change my plans both days and meet friends where we could both reach either by national rail or bus. That place ended up as Richmond.

The first visit was on the Tuesday. It was raining when I left home. My telescopic umbrella refused to go all the way up, so there I was trying to get my arms into a waterproof while walking to the station with my rucksack. I was not happy! Luckily, by the time I reached Richmond, the rain had almost stopped, and then it did.

We chose a short route from Richmond Bridge to Kew Bridge. It was a lovely walk, despite the overcast sky and the threat of more rain. A little way along, we encountered a path with a lot of puddles and lots of mud. It was a case of walking around the edges and trying not to get a foot full of water or mud.

This is a particularly nice walk as you have Old Deer Park (no deer!) on the right with a stream, and the Thames on your left. To the right, across the river is Syon House and Park. You can see both the boathouse and the house itself. The painter, J.M.W. Turner, rented a house nearby and painted scenes of the Thames.

The pink Pavilion is the boathouse in Syon Park

At Kew we came off the path, eager to find somewhere to eat. The Cricketers was all we hoped and more. The staff were friendly, the pub had atmosphere, and the food was excellent. We lingered a long time over lunch and splashed out on a second cup of tea. We know how to live!

We decided to walk back the same way, as Richmond has more transport links. Gradually, the drizzle returned and then became heavier. At least most of the walk had been rain-free.

Kew Observatory in the background. I am told the Obelisk is the old meridian line

My second visit was on Thursday. This was a lunchtime meet in a cafe with a friend combined with a ‘free-write’ session. In my other life, I write short fiction and poetry.

Afterwards, we took a brief look at the river. The water had flowed over the banks in places, due to all the rain, and possibly a high tide. I believe I am right in saying that the River Thames becomes a tidal river from Teddington.

*The Tide is High* as Blondie would say”!

So, there we have it. Richmond has very pretty walks, and is close to Richmond Park. I wrote not long ago about a walk I took through the park, down Richmond Hill to meet the Thames. I am lucky to live close to such lovely and interesting walks.

Getting Festive

Yesterday was Advent Sunday and on the 1st December I can bring out the Advent Calendar, Advent Candle, plug myself into Christmas music and wear my Christmas socks! Oh, yes, it’s that season, and the one that keeps me going through the dark, cold, dreary days of winter.

After the lockdown of last year I am hoping to get to a live carol concert this year. I am trying to stay positive after the recent announcements about the new South African variant and get on with life.

So this week I am sharing a few seasonal photos from last week and this morning (out in the garden in my nightwear!), as well as a few I took the previous week after an impromptu walk along the River Thames in Kingston.

So, who is ready for Christmas? Done your shopping yet? I have a friend who does all hers in August – far too early. November is the earliest I buy anything. Anyway, I hope this gets you in the mood. There may well be more in the coming weeks!