Winchester Cathedral

I believe my heart belongs to this place. Winchester ticks all my boxes, so it was great to be back in this lovely city again. I had bought a ticket for two events. The first was Extraordinary Everyday: The Art and Design of Eric Ravilious, and the second was Lux Murualis, a light show at Winchester Cathedral. But first there was lunch at The Refectory, which is always a treat. Here I gatecrashed someone’s table as there were no free spaces. I ended up chatting to a man, who is training to be a Priest and was spending twelve weeks at the Cathedral. Isn’t it funny how some people you click with? We discussed everything under the sun in the hour and half we sat together.

Off to the exhibition (no photos allowed, but do look at this website to see the art of Eric Ravilious. A quick low-down. Eric grew up in Sussex, one of his art tutors was Paul Nash (another painter whose work I adore). They were both war artists and friends. Eric died while at war. His aircraft never returned. Just think what he could have achieved if he had survived? Eric was a painter, engraver, illustrator and designer. His range is incredible. I spent an hour studying his painting closely, looking at his brushstrokes, trying to see how he achieved the effect. His designs for plates and bowls are quite fun and I would dearly love to own one of his works.

Outside The Arc, home of the Eric Ravilious exhibition

I can remember sitting on a hillside with a friend just outside Rottingdean in Sussex, on a walk Eric Ravilious might have taken, and looking at the patchwork fields. I said to my friend, ‘This looks just like an Eric Ravilious painting.’ And it really was. I could see his work all around me.

After the exhibition I went for a wander through the city and down to the Deanery Secondhand Bookshop. Unfortunately. it was closed. So I ended up in Waterstones bookshop instead (as you do!).

More wandering took me back up through the City to The Great Hall, which was closed the last time I was there. There were parts of it I couldn’t remember, and through talking to the lady in the gift shop, I realised it was pre-2017 when I was last in there! This is a lovely place and is all that remains above ground of Winchester Castle. The hall has been used for all sorts of things, including the assize courts, county offices and more recently for filming such things at The Crown and Wolf Hall. The myth of Arthur and the Round Table dominates here, and the table is around eight hundred years old! Built in 1222 and 1235 it is part of the castle started by William the Conqueror. Outside there is Queen Eleanor’s Garden, a peaceful place to sit. The long gallery holds more information about the hall and castle through the ages and leads to the gift shop.

I can see the old castle passageways outside. Part of this is open again now, though you can only go so far before there are gates looking into a very dark underworld! Creepy.

By now, it was time for afternoon tea. I had a leisurely break over a toasted teacake and tea and caught up with some reading. It was too early to go to the Cathedral for the light show, but I decide to go for a quick walk down to the River Itchen, and ended up walking to where the Water Meadows begin. By then it was 5.45pm and hardly anyone was around. Standing there by the river, the blackbirds were singing their hearts out as dusk began to fall. It was magical. Enjoy my little video.

I arrived at the Cathedral and joined the queue for the light show. Looking at the windows, I could already see lights flickering inside. Excitement was building. Finally, I was in. Wow! Every part of the cathedral had moving projections and music. I ended up taking lots of photos and videos. It was amazing. The theme was science, so there were projections of skeletons, muscles, double helix, faces of scientists through the ages flashing up. The main part of the cathedral (nave) was quite stunning. I sat down and took in the whole range of images. I was there about an hour before I reluctantly left and wound my way to the station for the train home.

Just one video I took during this amazing evening.

The light show was only on for a week, so it is over now. I know a few cathedrals have done similar things, and this was really wonderful. It was a perfect day. Even the weather was good. I don’t think it will be long before I am back in Winchester again.

Outside the Cathedral while inside it’s all still going on!

A trip out of London for a few days was something I’d tentatively planned while we were in lockdown. Having had to cancel two holidays I wondered if a short break would be possible this year. Well, I booked to go to Winchester only a few weeks ago. I found a nice self-catering apartment just off the city centre where I stayed for four nights last week. It didn’t take me long to settle in and enjoy the small garden where I regularly sat in the afternoons with my tea and a book.

I know Winchester well and have been many times, either for a day (it’s only about an hour by train from London) or to stay for a few nights. One year it was for the Christmas market.

I’d decided this break would mostly be a walking trip. I have visited most of the places of interest – Museum, The Great Hall, a couple of unique churches and the Discovery Centre. With some places still closed, others needed booking in advance, so I chose only things I could go to without booking. And of course with walking you don’t need to wear a face mask!

The first full day was spent following the river Itchen and it’s journey into the Winnall Moors Nature Reserve. There it is so peaceful, yet you are so close to the city. There is a pond and boardwalk, and if you are lucky enough you might even see a water vole (I didn’t). Afterwards I followed the river back in a different direction and then walked into the city for lunch at the Winchester Cathedral Refectory.

In the afternoon I had a stroll to West Hill Cemetery, which is old. Grass has been left so that it attracts wildlife. I remember the first time I had come through here some years ago dragging my suitcase along the main path. I was going to Winchester University (this is a regular cut through from the station) to attend a weekend writing conference. Now I had time to wander off the path and admire the view from the top of the hill. I forgotten how steep the hill was up to the cemetery!

On the second day I took a bus out of Winchester to Alresford (takes about 20 minutes by bus). The countryside is beautiful and the town has wide roads, grass verges and colourfully painted buildings. Here is also the home of the Watercress Line steam railway. The railway was runing, though I didn’t go on it. I just took some photos through fences!

I’d come for the Millennium Trail, following the River Arle. I have to say it is one of the prettiest walks I have done in a long while. The ducks were out in force! Mums with small children were feeding them. On the trail there is Eel House and the Fulling Mill (a thatched house built over the river that is so pictureque). The trail takes you alongside private land and comes out on the Winchester Road, and that takes you back to town. I skipped off back down another way to rejoin the river and eat my packed lunch while watching the ducks. There was a short detour (to see where it led!) where I found Arle Mill as well as a waterfall. That was a truly lovely day and somewhere I had never visited before.

Winchester Road looking down into Alresford with St John’s Church in the background

My final full day started late and I decided to visit Winchester Cathedral, as there was no need to book. It took me a while to realise what was different about the cathedral. And then later it clicked – all the seating had been removed from the centre. The chapels were also closed, though I took photos through the bars. I think the crypt was also closed, though I have been there before. There is an Antony Gormley figure down there. The cathedral had a special exhibition on entitled Kings & Scribes which was over three floors. It was really interesting, especially as I’d recently read a book about the Vikings where King Alfred of Wessex featured! There is a statue of King Alfred in Winchester.

On the end of the tomb of Bishop William of Wykeham

After the cathedral I walked along by the river to the castle ruins of Wolvesey and then headed off along the water meadows to The Hospital of St Cross and Almshouses. The building was closed (apart from the shop), but I had been before. Last time the church was being prepared for a wedding. This time I sat on a bench and watched walkers pass with their dogs and the dragonsflies flit around, while eating my lunch. Then it was slow walk back.

St Catherine’s Hill from the |Water Meadows

My break in Winchester was soon over. I was lucky with the weather – no rain and warm. I am sure I shall return soon as it is my favourite city. There is lots to do and some lovely walks, some of which which incorporate the house Jane Austen died in and places the poet John Keats walked. Winchester also runs a poetry festival (cancelled this year) and holds several fairs.

Tag: Winchester Cathedral

Day Trip to Winchester

WINCHESTER, Hampshire