I have been to St Albans twice before. The first time I hardly remember, the second time with my church, when we had a service in the chapel in the Cathedral. This time, I was determined to see all the Roman remains. I checked to make sure everything was open, and I didn’t have to pre-book (yes they were, apart from the Clock Tower which opens again in March, and no I didn’t have to pre-book anything).
I took the easier route for me and time-wise I don’t think it was much different from getting into London first. I’d always fancied taking the Thames Link train from Wimbledon. You used to be able to go direct from there to St Albans, but now you have to change at Blackfriars. However, it was an interesting journey. The train stopped at places I had never been through, and some I had never heard of! I guess the journey is slow because it stops so many times, but then someone said it’s not the destination, it’s the journey. I’d say both!
At Blackfriars I had to change platforms. Knowing I had about three minutes transfer time, I asked for directions rather than scramble about trying to work it out on my own. From here the train crosses the River Thames (Blackfriars station is actually on a bridge over the Thames!) to City Thames Link, which I didn’t know existed! You can get out here for St Paul’s Cathedral. West Hampstead (City Thames Link) is the final stop before the train picks up speed and you head into the countryside to St Albans City. The day was wall-to-wall sunshine.
My first point of call was Verulamium Park. Verulamium is the name Romans gave to St Albans and is the third largest Roman settlement in England, the other two being London and Colchester. I know the Romans were a cruel lot, but their building techniques and art are stunning. How many years did we wait for underfloor heating after the Romans left?
Verulamium was a huge find for archeologists and the Museum in the park holds all the finds from the digs. I’d never seen quite so many skeletons, including babies. There is a reconstruction of the face of one man who died and many items of grave goods, including food for the journey to the other side. The museum fans out from a main hall and covers all aspects of Roman life. In fact, the museum is built over the site of the Roman Basilica. There are mock rooms and wall paintings, pottery, jewellery, coins and lots of information about Roman life. There is also a video presentation as you enter which is worth stopping to watch, as it shows a history of Verulamium and excavations carried out.
The park is large with a lovely lake and bridge, and it is here that you also find the structure housing the mosaic floor and hypocaust. I also went in search of the Roman wall indicated on the map, but all I got for my trouble was damp feet from trudging through boggy grass! Well, you can’t win them all.
In the museum you can buy a combined ticket to visit the Roman Theatre, which is what I did. The site is a few minutes walk from the museum, crossing a main road (traffic lights operate). The theatre was quite stunning. Only ruins, of course, but I was the only one there. It was quiet, and I found a seat to sit on overlooking the theatre. Clearly, you can see where the stage was with its one remaining pillar. There would have been bear baiting and gladiatorial fights. The site is bigger than I imagined, with sections still yet to be excavated. What more will they find?
I headed back into the park and walked around the lake, which in parts had flooded over the footpath and found part of a wall called St Germain’s Block. This isn’t the part of the wall I was looking for. Nevertheless, it is a Roman wall! St Albans lacks the Roman walls that London has (near Tower Gateway tube station and Barbican have some great sections).
Finally, I headed for the Cathedral. A lovely tour guide explained about the wall paintings which I was interested in and explained the story of St Alban. He was martyred after swapping clothes with a Christian, so the man could escape from his pursuers. Check out the whole story here on the website for St Albans Cathedral. While there explore the rest of the site.
Wall paintings in churches were whitewashed over during the Reformation, so it is rare to see them, but where they are found, they are being restored where possible. The pillars and arches in the Cathedral are stunning, yet as the guide pointed out, on the other side of the nave the arches are different. These are more gothic. This part was added after the original collapsed, so at one time those beautiful arches would have adorned both sides of the nave.
There are stunning stained glass windows too and the main chapel with its polished wood choir stalls and beautiful ceiling always stops me in my tracks. There was a funeral taking place in one area of the Cathedral, so that was off limits, but there was still much to see. Afterwards I headed into the cafe. Sadly, I was too late for hot food (it was after 2pm), so I had to make do with a large slice of coffee and walnut cake. I mean it’s a hard life, isn’t it?!
The day had gone quickly. If you are travelling to St Albans from inner London, the quickest way is to catch the train from St Pancras International, but I returned home the same way I came, even though it was a slower train (more stops). I suppose I should visit Colchester one day and then I will have visited all three largest Roman cities.
My London+ 