churches – My London+

Three London Churches, a square and a river

St Etheldreda’s. Ely Place

I set out with a vague idea of a route, but at least I had one specific place to visit. Flicking through London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts, I came across St Etheldreda’s, Farringdon. It was open on a Mondon (yay!) and had a crypt. The photos of it (and a look on their website) convinced me I must see it.

The church is off Ely Place, a gated cul-de-sac, off Holborn Circus and the nearest tube station is Chancery Lane. The church dates from 1252 and is the only Pre-Reformation church still in Catholic use. We get the term ‘night on the tiles’ from the tiled cloister as the Bishop gave a five-day party here for King Henry VIII, and it was here that the King discussed divorce from Catherine of Aragon with Archbishop Cranmer.

Ely Place

I had the whole of the church to myself. The large stained glass window just inside the main church was so huge that I couldn’t stand back far enough to frame the whole thing in my camera (I only had my mobile and it doesn’t have a wide-angle lens). The church has some wonderful stained glass windows.

The Nave

Altar window

Looking back

I walked down to The Crypt, which was very dimly lit. It seemed to be a place for storage and a sometimes cafe, maybe a performance space. However, there were some modern stained glass windows and statues.

In the crypt

A view from the steps coming out of the church towards the main entrance and the crypt to the left.

From St Etheldreda’s, I noticed a couple of other churches on the other side of Holborn Circus. I thought I’d see if they were open. The first was St Andrew, Holborn, an Anglican Church worshipping in the Catholic Style (High Anglican!). It also features (as I was later to discover) in London’s 100 Best Churches.

This is a very light church, very open and spacious, with a glorious ceiling. A gallery surrounds the nave. The church claims to have had people worshipping on the site for over 1,000 years. There is a wonderful timeline history on the website. Do take a look.

What stood out for me was the small altar with mother and child with the gold surround. Astonishing.

The nave with gallery.

The organ loft

This church holds the tomb of Thomas Coram, the founder of The Foundling Hospital, which I have visited in the past.

The tomb of Thomas Coram

This art work is over the door leading into the church.

Coming out of the church I walked and crossed Holborn Viaduct.

View from Holborn Viaduct

I don’t know much about architecture, though I studied a bit of Roman and Greek, which there is a lot of in London as it is considered classic. Just look at all the columns in London’s old buildings. However, new designs can sometimes be very photogenic, like the one in the photo above.

The final church I visited was Holy Sepulchre. I don’t know why this church isn’t featured in London’s 100 Best Churches, because I think it should.

Holy Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct.

I was delighted to find out it is the musicians’ church, and has a dedicated Musicians’ Chapel. I spent some time in there enjoying the surroundings and the wonderful kneelers, each one representing a different composer.

The chapel also holds the ashes of Sir Henry Wood. He learned to play organ here before going on to study at the Royal Academy of Music. His father sang tenor in the choir. There is a window dedicated to Sir Henry Wood and a memorial book to musicians.

Musicians’ Chapel

Organ loft

Here was another interesting detail. There is a replica of the bell beside this plaque, but there was so much reflection I couldn’t take a photo of it.

The Royal Fusiliers Chapel (City of London Regiment)

Font

My aim now was to wander down to Paternoster Square, and as I walked I realised I’d been here before a couple of times. Greyfriars sits close to St Paul’s. What remains of the Greyfriats has been turned into a pocket garden.

Greyfriars

I had come to Paternoster Square where I wanted to see a fairly new art work, The Wild Table of Love. I’m sure I’ve read this is a temporary installation, but I may be wrong about this. However, it was great to see it, and a good excuse to end my visit in this place.

Around the edge of the square there are restaurants and cafes. I took a break at Pret before taking in the rest of the square.

This is the installation I had come to see.

St Paul’s Cathedral

I nipped into the Salvation Arm Cafe by the Millennium Bridge for a cup of tea and a cookie.

Crossing the Millennium Bridge I was now going to walk back to Waterloo along Southbank.

Here you can see The Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.

This is one of my favourite spots to take a photo. I never tire of this view across the bridge.

This really speaks to me.

Outside the Hayward Gallery, Southbank

I really enjoyed this day out. I found some marvelous churches I had not set out to see and learned new things. Sometimes keeping plans loose can lead you into some very interesting places. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.

The Arts and Craft Church

Holy Trinity, Sloane Square was given the name ‘Arts & Crafts Movement’ by Sir John Betjeman. It really is a splendid church. Quite unusual and houses a stained glass window by Edward Burne-Jones and William Morris & Company. So, of course I had to visit!

The building work began in 1888 on the site given by the Earl of Cadogan. He also financed the building and its furnishings, designed by J D Sedding. Sedding died before the church was completed and his assistant Henry Wilson carried through the work as the architect intended.

Holy Trinity has many stained glass windows, but the one I had come especially come to see was the east window – the one of Burne-Jones and William Morris. It is the window first seen as you walk in as it is behind the altar. To the right is an information board with a description of all the panels in the window.

It was lovely to see the busts of William Morris and John Ruskin as sort of bookends over the case containing the frontal altar cloth designed by John Sedding.

East Window by Edward Burne-Jones & William Morris & Co.

There was interesting decoration around the top of wall by the chapel. The chapel itself is quite dark, but has a lovely stained glass window of St Michael and Gabriel.

Certainly a very interesting church to walk around. While I was there, a group of dancers were rehearsing for an up-and-coming performance. There was also a Christmas shop for ‘Good Causes’ so I bought my first pack of Christmas cards, advent candle and an advent calendar!

Holy Trinity features in the book London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts. I’ve visited only sixteen of them so far! The church is just a short walk away from Sloane Square tube station.

Three churches and something completely different

It was lovely to be back in London last week, and despite the rain (most welcome after the heatwave) I enjoyed it. I thought I’d start with the ‘something completely different’.

I began at This Bright Land currently at Somerset House courtyard (closes 29th August). The stalls don’t open until midday, but I just wanted a wander around and see what was there. I loved the garden, the toadstools, flamingos and giraffes!

My second stop on my wanderings was St Clement Danes Church in Strand. I have been here once before, but a small orchestra was rehearsing, so on this visit I was able to walk around freely. St Clement Danes is the RAF central church. Here they hold remembrance records and memorabilia. It is a most beautiful church with the insignia of the RAF everywhere.

By the time I left the church a light rain had begun to fall.

I made way towards Temple Church, I place I hadn’t been to for maybe 20 years. The Da Vinci Code (Dan Brown) made this place rather famous as the author used this for one of his locations. I have read the book, and despite all the bad reviews (unchecked locations!), I loved it. The book had not long been out when I went to Temple Church, though this was not my main reason for going. I just like visiting new places! It was free to visit then. Now there is a charge of £5 (£3 concession), but very worth it. There is a lot of merchandise available now which wasn’t there before. And even more exciting to me was the opening of the upstairs. Something new to see.

Temple Church was the English headquarters of the Knights Templar and built as London’s Jerusalem. There are information boards all around the walls telling the story. The church is a working church and is most beautiful with its pews facing across the nave, rather than towards the altar. It has some fantastic stained glass windows.

Looking from the nave towards the round church

On the steps leading to the upper floor is a tiny cell (penitentiary), said to be too small to stand up in! From above you look down on the round church, consecrated in 1185. The church is also the place where the Magna Carta was discussed. For more of the history, please have a look at Temple Church website.

By the time I came out of Temple Church, the rain was really going for it. I decided now was a good time to stop for lunch, so that’s what I did. From my table I was able to watch the rain pounding the pavement. Thankfully, it tailed off, and I was able to continue my walk to Trafalgar Square with a visit to St Martin-in-the-Fields.

And here is what I came to look at! Easily missed in Trafalgar Square, though I have seen it before. Built in the 1920’s this was used by the Police to watch Trafalgar Square because there were so many protests! It used to have a telephone and the gas lamp on top was converted to electric. These days cleaners keep their buckets and cleaning equipment in there!

I hope you have enjoyed this little jaunt around London with me.