history – My London+

Winchester City Mill

Although I have been to Winchester many times, I had never been to the old city mill. But what a beautiful place. Owned by the National Trust (and free to visit) the mill has a long past. It has been there since Saxon times, lived through the black death, and then with the loss of the Calais wool trade, the mill declined and in 1471 it was derelict.

The cafe is at the far end. Here is the milling room.

In Tudor times the mill came under ownership of the crown, but after Winchester hosted the marriage of Queen Mary Tudor to Philip II of Spain, Mary gifted the mill back to the city. In 1743 the mill was owned by James Cooke who replaced timbers, exchanged thatch for tiles and added lead to the windows.

In 1795 JMW Turner drew a sketch of the mill.

1931-2005 the mill had a new role. It became a Youth Hostel and you can view the records and photos from that period in the mill. In 2004, after repairs, the first milling demonstration took place 90 years after it stopped.

Winchester is known to flood when excessive rain hits, and the mill was flooded during the winter of 2013/14. You can view a video on their website of flood water pouring through.

The mill still does milling demonstrations and sells bags of flour in the gift shop. Going downstairs to see the waterwheel is very exciting. Water rushes in from the River Itchen, and the noise is wonderful! The mill also has a lovely garden running alongside the river, as well as a cafe, where I stopped for lunch. There is lots of information about how the mill works, its history, as well as some hands-on things. There is also a video in the secondhand bookshop explaining the history of the mill. They also run courses there.

The mill is open from Wednesdays to Sundays 11.00am-4.00pm. Well worth a visit.

The working mill

Red House, Bexleyheath, Kent

Red House was built by architect Philip Webb for William Morris. The two were good friends. The Morris’ only lived here for five years, and some of the wall decorations are incomplete, but the house is beautiful and fascinating. There were plans for Edward Burne-Jones and his family to move in later, making it a village for the Arts and Craft Movement, but the extension planned was never forthcoming because circumstances changed. The Burne-Jones’ lost their baby boy shortly after birth (he was premature) and the constant trips to London for business got too much for William Morris, so it was decided to move the family back to London. Morris could not bear to return to house once it was sold on. It was his dream home.

As readers to this blog will know, William Morris is a hero of mine and regularly crops up in posts! This house has been on my ‘hit list’ for many years and it did not disappoint. Entrance to the house is by tour only, booked in advance. It’s free to National Trust members. Not all the rooms are accessible, but enough. Owners after the Morris’ did paint over things, but on occasions left strips to show what it was like. Most of the furniture is not original (though there is little furniture anyway), but what is there is in keeping with the Arts and Craft Movement. Original pieces were gifted to museums. The Ashmoleum Museum in Oxford has some pieces (gifted by Janey Morris after William’s death) as Morris studied at the University as well as helped paint the Debating Chamber of the new Oxford Union, recruited by Rossetti. Other pieces can be found at other houses the Morris’ lived in and the museum in Walthamstow (Morris’ childhood home)

The inside of the front door is not original, but the then owner repainted it and followed the lines of the previous decoration. The stained glass was also added. I think it fits in well with the style.

The entrance hall is large and was used by the Morris’ as a dining hall. A table was moved into the space and lively conversation, as well as good food, would have made for an interesting evening with all of Morris’ friends. Morris was known for his love of food (Edward Burne-Jones often drew little cartoon sketches of Morris as round and jolly, and sometimes in a fit of temper, which his close friends seemed to encourage!). Morris also liked his drink and would come up from the cellar with several bottles of wine.

The settled in the entrance hall was designed by Philip Webb especially for the house. Morris painted the central panels with a scene from Malory (Sir Lancelot bringing Sir Tristram and the Belle Iseult to Joyous Gard). They include portraits of Janey (seated left) and Burne-Jones feeding a cherry to his wife Georgiana. However, the piece remains unfinished and was later painted green, and then brown during the second world war when the house was occupied by the National Assistance Board. I believe Rations Books may have been kept in in the settle cupboard!

The wallpaper in the house is not original as the house was pre-Morris’ wallpapers, but was added at a later date.

The dining room has a row of original William Morris chairs as well as a dresser designed by Webb and painted dragon’s blood red (in keeping with Red House!). This was a favourite colour of William Morris.

Kindy do not sit on the WIlliam Morris chairs!

Embroidered panel depicting Aphrodite designed by William Morris and believed to have been worked by Morris’ sister-in-law, Bessie Burden)

I loved the landing with its wood floor, sofa and beautiful windows worked by William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones.

Not sure if this is original. I suspect not, but covered with William Morris fabric. (Landing)

William Morris’ bedroom was quite a surprise in that it was quite small. There were no furnishings here except wall paintings, unfinished and not in best condition. Those who came after Morris whitewashed the walls, but there are patches where you can see what was there before. Again, the paintings are unfinished.

Unfinished painted wall in the bedroom depicting characters from the Bible, including (far left) Adam and Eve

This wall hanging is a copy of one worked on by Janey Morris. The original is at Kelmscott

Morris’ studio. This is one of two wood blocks on show for Morris wallpapers

In the studio the walls are cracking! Apparently, the foundations were not sunk deep enough and lies on chalk. However, the outside cracks have been dealt with, but inside they have been left. I believe it was here that the extension was going to be placed for the Burne-Jones family.

Fireplace, drawing room. Apparently it was rather smoky!

The drawing room is upstairs (like the studio) and the room I most wanted to see as I’d seen images of it online. Look closely at some of these photos to spot the cracks in the walls!

The ceiling was painted over by a new owner, but he left a few strips of the original (he also put the false beams in to make it look more rustic!). The original ceiling would have looked like the photo below.

The piano was given by Ford Maddox Brown, a pre-Raphaelite artist

The settle in the drawing room was designed by William Morris for his Red Lion Square home, but when it moved here Philip Webb added the canopy and ladder to create a gallery where plays were performed. It also had another use as access to the massive loft space where things were stored. Little doors leading to places interest me. There is another door similar to this on the landing which we were told was used to go through to ‘clear the pigeons away’ as it went into loft space.

The wall decorations are by Edward Burne-Jones and Rossetti. They seem to be the only completed works in the house!

Wall painting by Edward-Burne Jones (top) decoration to the bottom (William Morris), drawing room

We were told that the house is freezing in the winter and hot in the summer. It was certainly very hot inside the day we were there, and not many windows open. (I did wonder whether the windows were too delicate to open or that they were worried about things inside being spoiled!)

Our tour was almost over. Downstairs there is a room given open as a museum with various information boards with the history of the house and objects belonging to Philip Webb and Morris. And then we went into the garden where we were free to roam.

The house exceeded my expectations. I may go back one day as it is a lot to take in. I loved the gardens, too. The house is only open on certain days of the week and there is no cafe any longer. However, there are the all important toilets! The nearest railway station is Bexleyheath with trains into London. However, due to a mistake (I hold my hands up to this one!), we went on a different train and ended up at Bexley. I have to say in hindsight, this turned out to be the best option. Bexley has a village feel whereas Bexleyheath is just like most big towns (Morris liked Bexley!). Bexleyheath is just a short bus ride away and we were able to stop and have some lunch. Coming from Bexleyheath station it is a bit of a walk to the town and then you have to walk back to the house. Had the cafe at Red House still been there, this would not be a problem.

Thames Path – two walks

Tower Bridge closing – taken from the north bank

Last week I took two walks along two different parts of the Thames Path. The first was with a friend, along the north bank from London Bridge to Wapping, the second was from Datchet to Windsor in Berkshire.

The first walk took us over Tower Bridge, but we had to wait because the bridge was open to let a boat through. All the years I have been coming to London, this was the first time I had seen the bridge open and close. As it happened, we saw this happen twice, once going, and once coming back! Amazing.

Tower bridge – open. Taken on the South bank

Once over the bridge we walked to St Katherine’s Dock where we stopped for lunch., sitting on a bench overlooking the water. Afterwards we ambled around the dock admiring all the boats and the apartments. Some of these are old warehouses that have been converted.

Soon we found our way to Wapping. Here there are several good pubs. I have visited the Prospect of Whitby in the past, a pub that has a noose hanging outside its back window overlooking the Thames. Here criminals were executed. The pub is also well worth visiting as it has lots of original features. However, today that pub was further than we wanted to walk. But there was one place I wanted to see, and that was Wapping Old Stairs which run alongside the pub called Town of Ramsgate. The pub dates from the 1400’s and the steps was where the fishermen of Ramsgate (in Kent) brought their catches and landed them at Wapping Old Stairs.

The Thames. On the shore having come down Wapping Old Stairs. Oliver’s Wharf

Today we walked down the alleyway and down the stairs. They take you right onto the Thames. Using the handrail is a good idea as the tide comes up over the steps and they can be rather slimy. But it was exciting to stand where fishermen once had hauled their load in here. Crazy that I didn’t take a photo of the stairs themselves, I was that excited! I’m sure I will be going back.

Rather in need of refreshment we thought about visiting the pub, but we walked on a little further until we came to the Captain Kidd pub. This looked like it was closed from the outside. There is nothing much to see, but we walked through open doorway into an alleyway that led to the pub. Here we stopped to have tea (very English!) and sat in the courtyard garden overlooking the Thames. The pub stands on the execution sight of the pirate Captain Kidd, though before becoming a pub in the 1980’s, this building was a workshop and a coffee warehouse.

After refreshing cups of tea, we headed back up river and this time crossed at London Bridge. If you like a pub crawl, then Wapping is a good place to do it! The history of those places wraps around you.

A nice sculpture for Berkeley Homes, North Bank

Datchet to Windsor

On Friday I took the opportunity of reasonably good weather to pick up my Thames Path walk upstream. Last time I finished at Datchet. This time I was doing a very short section – a two mile walk along the Thames to Royal Windsor. The day started badly with difficulty getting train tickets as my local train station ticket office was closed. I won’t bore you with all the details, but I ended up running the length of Clapham Junction station to buy a ticket there (having been directed the wrong way to the machines that could not provide the discounts I am entitled to). I caught my train with three minutes to spare. In a little over half an hour I was in Datchet.

A nice green path off the road down to the Thames

The first part of the walk was on the road, which was extra busy (and I was soon to find out why). The path was then easy going between trees and foliage on both sides. I became aware that on the other side of the river there was some sort of horsey event taking place. I Googled it and found it was The Royal Windsor Horse Show.

Looks like I have coincided with a horse show!

Coming up the steps and onto Victoria Bridge I admired the horses. However, walking a little way on, I realised that there were barriers up and I had no access to the Thames Path on that side. I stopped someone on the road to ask about it and he said I’d have to use the road. I was beginning to think it wasn’t my day!

So I carried on along the busy main road into Windsor itself. My intention was to spend the day looking around Windsor, as I’d not been here in many years. It took a while for me to remember it.

I have to admit that everything that had happened that morning had left me rather stressed. I saw there was a church open, so I decided to go and pay a visit. Whatever your take on religion, you cannot deny the absolute calm of standing in a church away from the noise of traffic and people.

The Last Supper, Light of the World, Royal Pew

St John the Baptist church was rather dark (comes out lighter in the photos), but it was lovely and had two great paintings – The Last Supper and Holman Hunt’s The Light of the World. Outside, I sat on a bench in the church garden overlooking the street and ate my packed lunch.

Finally, I made my way down to the river, stopping off in Alexandra Gardens for a cup of tea. The promenade was lovely and teeming with ducks and swans. The sun came out as I walked. This part of Windsor held surprises like the Hawker Hurricane and Baths Island. I actually laid down at Baths Island. It was relaxing with just the putt, putt of boats up and down the Thames.

Slowly, I made my way back into Windsor and decided to head over the bridge and into Eton to see the famous college. Eton has a lovely high street with cafes and independent shops. I went into an antique book shop and almost bought a book, before heading to the college. Wow! What a place. It really is something else.

On my way back I stopped off at a lovely veggie/vegan cafe for tea and cake and sat at a table outside watching the world go by.

Back over the bridge, I walked through another park with a maze and a very gentle game of bowls was taking place. I was thinking about catching the train back home when I decided to walk further along the Thames Path in the direction of Datchet to see how far I could get. As it turned out I almost completed the walk because from this side the path ran alongside the far side of Home Park. However, eventually I came to the trailers and horse boxes and knew I might have to turn around. I came across a nice man with a gorgeous horse and asked him about getting through. He advised me that I could not walk much further before coming to barriers. He suggested I walk through the field of trailers and horse boxes, following the metal road, and out through the security gate. I asked if I would be allowed to do that. He said, ‘Yes, but if not, I’ll see you ten minutes!’ So, I that’s what I did. There was something beautiful about the sounds of neighing and snorted horses (I’ve always loved horses), but I just kept walking and I even had a little banter with the security guard!

Back onto Victoria Bridge and on my way to Datchet

Back onto the road, Victoria Bridge was just around the corner and I was back on the Thames Path and was on my way to Datchet. This was not how I’d planned it, but in the end I had walked all but a small section of the river on the original path. I had walked close to ten miles in all!

Nero: The man behind the myth – The British Museum

On a wet Monday I headed off The British Museum, having bought a ticket the week before. I needed some inside entertainment during a week that looked rainy! And the Romans have always interested me!

The exhibition was busier than I expected, especially as Covid restrictions are still in force, but things improved once I managed to get out of the first room. The first room was a slow wait-in-line slog where the statues referring to Nero’s family tree was. A complicated tree it is too! Adopted sons, second marriages, all to keep ‘the line’ going.

Nero was only sixteen when he became ruler, and his mother, Agrippina, was very much influencing the way things went. Coins show her alongside her son, but as the years rolled by, she faded more in to the distance on the coins as Nero became his own man, and resented his mother’s interference. Later she was accused of conspiring against Roman leaders, and though it seemed that Nero and his mother had reconciled, Agrippina was later found dead. She had either been forced to commit suicide or was killed by one of Nero’s men.

A young Nero who was later accused of matricide!

The exhibition showcases Nero’s life and busts some of the myths. Nero appears to have been well liked by the people, and he was popular with his supporters, at least to start with. But isn’t that the way with the Romans – good start, plotted against later!

Nero inherited war, but after the uprising in Britain Nero sent a special official to improve administration and to instigate reform and rebuild.

While Prince, Nero enjoyed performing at the circuses. Gladiatorial games and charity racing were popular pass times, as were performances of plays on stage, in which Nero took part.

The fire in Rome in the year AD64, was rumoured to have been started by Nero, but in fact he was not even there when the fire happened. It burned over nine days, destroying great chunks of the city. To appease the gods Nero blamed a Jewish sect.He rounded them up and had them executed ‘by fire’ to fit the crime.

Nero helped the citizens after the fire and rebuilt the city. He instigated new practices and legislation in an urban building plan. His own palace had been caught in the fire, so he set about building a new lavish one.

Wall art from Nero’s second palace, Domus Aurea

Nero married three times. His first wife Claudia Octavia, was betrothed to him when they were children and she was about 13 when they married. Later divorced from Nero and banished, she was executed in AD62 on charges of adultery. Poppaea Sabina, his second wife died, possibly after a miscarriage. Needing heirs, Nero married Statilia Messalina and she outlived Nero.

Popularity began to wane from about AD65, as plots began and disaffected groups and discontent led to conspiracy. In the end, Nero knew he had no choice but to end his life.He fled Rome with a loyal freedman who was his secretary, and it was he who helped Nero commit suicide.

As was common, after Nero’s death, his statues were defaced, as if to wipe Nero out of history. But many statues were repurposed and re-carved to make the heads of new rulers, like the one below of Vespasian, who was one of the more successful rulers from those who followed Nero.

Despite his death, Nero continued to remain a popular figure with people He was a complex character, but then what Roman ruler wasn’t?!

Kingston upon Thames: A Royal Town

Back in late June I wrote about a walk along the River Thames from Kingston to Molesey Lock. This time I am back in Kingston at special request!

This is for a friend of mine who has been unable to visit lately and misses a couple of his ‘watering holes’. I hope this will cheer you up!

Kingston is a royal town, a royal borough of London. Kings have been crowned here. Back in AD 838 Kingston was known as Cyninges tun and went through various versions of the name until 1589 when it became Kingestowne upon Thames. According to the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle two kings were consecreated here, AEthelstan (925) and AEthelred the Unready (978). It is said that others were also crowned here, but the evidence is less substantial. It is believed the coronations were held in the chapel of St Mary’s (which collapsed in 1730) and that a large stone recovered from the wreckage played an important part in the coronations.. This stone now stands in the grounds of the Guildhall.

Today Kingston is a thriving town with lots of history. There is a mix of old and new, and Kingston has been featured greatly on TV for films and TV drama, and during the Olympics in 2012 the cycling road race ran through here. In fact there is a yearly road race now held here. The Olympic Torch came through here too, and I was luckily enough to be there for that.

Kingston boats two big department stores that face each other on a corner – John Lewis and Bentalls. Bentalls was founded in 1867 by Frank Bentall who bought a drapery store and the buildings were completed in 1935. The stonework on the facade was designed by Eric Gill, whose work I came across only a few years ago and I really admire his engravings. Bentalls went on to open stores in Tunbridge Wells, Bracknell, Worthing and Bristol. However, in 1992 Bentalls in Kingston developed into The Bentall Centre, as more franchise stores located there. In 2001 Bentalls sold out to The House of Frazer, who went on to sell top Fenwick who are the current owners. The other stores had been sold off gradually due to loss-making, though I believe the store in Bracknell remains. Bentalls is rather dear to me because my family have all worked there over the years from grandparents onwards, and I had my first job there!

John Lewis opened in 1990. You can read more here. When excavating for the store remains were found of the old Kingston Bridge and Undercroft. Some of these can still be seen today at the back of the building on the river side. I don’t think these are open to the public daily, but you can see them through a glass window. However, I have been observed them close up on a day when they were opened for a special viewing. See here for more information.

There is so much more to Kingston that I could say – the ancient market place has been here since 1242. A statue of Queen Victoria stands over it, and Old London Road with its antique shop (featured in TV’s Bargain Hunt!) and Lovekyn Chapel founded in 1309, which can be hired for weddings and can be viewed on Open House Weekend in September. There is Nipper Alley (where the famous dog and gramaphone logo of HMV is commemorated) and the Clattern Bridge. The most famous person to originate from Kingston was Eadweard Muybridge born in 1830. A strange man (he like to change the spelling of his name now and then!), but a brilliant one. He famously photographed a horse running to prove that at one point all feet were off the ground. He is a most interesting man and worth reading about. I have seen his work in various exhibitions and the Kingston Museum is home to some of the best. Have a look at this website for information about these and other places in Kingston.

The River Thames at Kingston looking towards Hampton Court

My final mention must go to Turks Boatyard who run river cruises to Hampton Court and Richmond. They have been running a service for over three hundred years. The boatyard has now gone, but services continue. Turks got a mention in a book I was reading recently about Istanbul by Bettany Hughes. The family have connections to medieval times in Kingston, but their business goes back further. Read here for more information.

I hope I have done Kingston justice!

Bridge over the Hogsmill River which flows into the Thames

Hogsmill River running under the Clattern Bridge (Guildhall – with weather vane – the background)

The front of the new Bentall Centre (see above for the older part which still remains)

Bermondsey Walk

Today I joined a group of people on a walk through Bermondsey. How lucky were we with the weather? Yes, it was a chilly wind, but the sun was shining and there wasn’t a rain cloud in sight!

Council Offices showing the Bermondsey Crest

I was particularly keen to do this walk as my grandfather’s family lived here. Actually, my grandfather four generations back was the first to live by the River Neckinger. The river has long since been built over but there are clues to the past, and if you know where to look (I do!) you can see where the river finally runs into the Thames.

The walk began from Bermondsey tube station. The road outside had barriers along it due to the Vitality Half Marathon taking place. Lots of runners (including someone dressed as a rhino) were being cheered on.

Walking under the bridge by the old Bermondsey Spa Station

Our first stop, St James Church, is quite an imposing place with Roman pillars. (Since coming home I have discovered that my great-grandfather married here!). We carried on into Spa Road where Bermondsey Spa Road Station once stood. We walked under the bridge (rather nice pillars) and out the other side where there is a park where once the spa waters were. It was the place to come in those days. On the other side of the road is the council offices. Not the original as they moved along a bit, but on the pediment of the building you can see the Bermondsey Crest. The only part of the original council building remaining is part of the wall and gates, behind which is now Sainsbury’s Local!

Further down is the library, which is original. Above the windows are busts of writers. Inside there is Buddhist Prayer Room. Our guide showed us a photo of it and said that it was in use at weekends but they are very friendly people there, and if you go along in the week you can see it for yourself.

The area had many factories. Most of these have now been converted into flats. There is Hartley’s (the jam makers), a custard factory and a biscuit factory. However, there were also factories dealing in curing furs. One such factory Alaska cured seal furs, another cured goat skins, and in one road Christies hat factory used felt . Then women working there had to use a solution of mercury and some other acid to separate the fibres. This is where the saying ‘mad as a hatter’ comes from, because the mercury caused loss of memory, slowness, slurred speech and the shakes. It was only outlawed in 1912 in this country.

Alaska Factory where seal skins/fur was cured

Tanning was also big business in this area. Of course central London did not want the smell so factories were downstream, where big open vats were used filled with dog poo and urine to cure the hides. People were paid to collect dog poo for this industry! My great grandfather started out as a boot maker. He was in the right place! The smell must have been dreadful, and all the effluence poured into the Thames. Street names, like Tanners Lane, show the past, along with old warehouses now turned into offices and apartments.

Before it was an auto repair shop this was a Farrier, hence the horse head

The railways seemed to build new stations at the drop of a hat only to demolish them and build another. We came across two very close by. The second one had nothing to remember it by except around the corner where the arches are. They were the former stables. As goods came in horse and carts were used to deliver them. The old houses were once places workers would have lived in. These days the two bedroom houses go for about £600,000!

The former stables around the corner from a station (no longer there)

The remains of Bermondsey Abbey under a restaurant floor!

Another highlight was discovering Bermondsey Abbey ruins, close to the now lost Neckinger River. The only way to see them is to go into the restaurant where you can see a small part through a glass flood. Our guide knows them in the restaurant so we were able to go in. Unfortunately they were given the wrong advice about the flooring so only you can only see part of a wall through one panel as the rest of the floor has frosted glass. To change it would cost £40,000!

The head of a river god on one of Bermondsey’s oldest buildings

Over the road stands St Mary Magdalene (where, in the graveyard, I believe one of my ancestors is buried). Let’s hope he wasn’t dug up because the people known as The Resurrectionists took bodies for medical research. There is a tower house (now a cafe) where watchmen stayed to keep an eye open for anyone hoping to dig up a newly buried body! Next we stopped at a row of buildings which are the oldest in Bermondsey. Over the arch of one is the head of a river god.

The Watch House over the cemetery (now a cafe)

To finish we walked into Maltby Street, a narrow alleyway where there is a street market selling hot food from around the world. The aroma was wonderful. Some of our group went into some eating places to the side but I went off to explore and take a few more photos before walking to London Bridge station and the homeward journey.