places to visit – My London+

The Garden Museum/Derek Jarman Exhibition

Derek Jarman was a Film Producer and in the 1980’s he bought Prospect Cottage in Dungenesss and turned it into a haven. With a lifelong interest in gardening he set about making a garden on the beach, not only with flowers but art pieces made from beach finds. The walls of the cottage also contained his art works.

When he died there was the possibility that the cottage might be sold and turned into a holiday cottage. The Art Fund stepped in to save this unique cottage by crowdfunding, and they were lucky encough to raise the funding to buy it.

The Garden Museum in Lambeth has a selection of Jarman’s art works, letters, books, journals and tools on display. It is only a small exhibition, but they have done it very well. They have created a room with a mock up cottage set on pebbles, so when you walk in it feels like you are on the beach. On the walls the cottage is depicted with the surounding scenery, the Nuclear Power Station in the background. Inside the installation are three rooms. One has a film running, a film Jarman took on the beach. Opposite are the other two rooms, the first contains a case with the journals, letters and photos, the other room has desk in from of a window overlooking the pebble beach.

This is indeed a unique cottage, and hopefully, in time, it will be possible to visit the real thing.

The Garden Museum itself has undergone renovations since I was last there. They have a brand new cafe area around the garden and a learning space for schools and groups. Also here on the ground floor is the history of the church, the former St Marys-at-Lambeth, the oldest church in Lambeth. You can see the walk in baptismal font and there is a tower with over 300 steps from where you get a good view of the River Thames (haven’t been up there yet).

Upstairs you find gardening through the ages, with tools, photos, paintings and methods, posters and, let’s face it, nostalgia! Also from up here are good views of the stained glass windows. I remember the museum as being bigger, but maybe its the way the space is being used now.

While renovation was taking place there was a surprise find. It wasn’t thought the church had a crypt as it was so close to the river and would have flooded. However, when taking up some floor slabs they found lead coffins beneath. It turned out there were five former Archbishop of Canterbury’s buried there, along with others. Around twenty or so coffins have been found. You can read all about it here. There is also a short video about the find.

Here you can see the entrance to the crypt with the Archbishop’s Mitre

The Garden Museum was set up in 1977 to honour John Tradescant (1570-1638), who was the first gardener and plant hunter in British history. He is also buried at the church. The church was due for demolition. Thank goodness it was saved.

You can walk to the museum from Waterloo station (17 mins), or take the tube to Lambeth North.. The museum is opposite Lambeth Bridge.

High Elms Country Park, Farnborough, Kent

You might be forgiven for thinking that the extensive woodlands and golf course are deep into the Kent countryside, but High Elms is actually in the outer London Borough of Bromley. There is a cafe and visitor centre, along with ruins of High Elm House. The house was lived in by the Lubbock family. Sir John Lubbock (astronomer and banker) inherited the land from his father (John Wiliam Lubbock, a London banker and MP) and built the house in 1840. Sir John’s son (also called John) invited Charles Darwin to visit shortly after Darwin moved into Downe House (just a carriage drive away) in 1842. The two became firm friends. Another visitor was William Gladstone.

The estate can be traced back to the time of William the Conqueror, who gifted it to his half-brother, Odo, bishop of Bayeux.

What is left of the house, which burnt down in the 1960’s , is just a layout, a few stones, the tennis courts ( now grassed over), an ice house, but the gardens and land remain. There are several pleasant walks and High Elms seems to be a popular spot for families and dog walkers.

High Elms Country Park made for a pleasant afternoon’s walking in dappled light, and the surprise of finding the unusual sight of a fallen tree whose branches have grown into trees themselves (see photos).

There is a lot more about High Elms here, including how to get there and a nature trail that can be downloaded and printed to use on your visit.

New trees growing out of the fallen tree

Streatham Common/The Rookery

I only found out about The Rookery recently through an article I found on Facebook. It was time to check it out in person.

Nestled to the back and to the side of Streatham Common, The Rookery is a maze of gardens and new delights. Originally built as a Spa, there is a modern well to mark the spot. Created in 1659, the house and gardens were laid out on a site orignally known as Well House. Unfortunately, the spa waters were found not to be beneficial due to the clay soil.

The present gardens were opened to the public in 1913 and haven’t changed much in all that time. Arbours and paths lead to different parts of the garden, gardens within gardens, so to speak. There are plenty of places to sit and this seems to be a favourite haunt of young families. You will find the well of Streatham Spa, a fountain, streams, and just outside there is wooded area which is part of Streatham Common.

The Rookery Cafe sits on the edge of the gardens. It was open when I was there but to order food and drink you had to download an app first.

I can do no more than to share some photos with you. Nearest station is Streatham Common running from either Victoria or Cannon Street stations. From there it is a short walk. The gardens are free to visit and there are toilets!

Cannizaro Park, Wimbledon

Cannizaro Park sits on the edge of Wimbledon Common and above is a picture of the house, now a hotel (Hotel Du Vin). However the conservatory is open to the public as a cafe (though obviously not at the moment, sadly). The park is free to visit.

It was a fair walk for me to reach here, and a trek uphill. My only thought was how easy it would be going back downhill afterwards! But it was worth the walk, for this is a beautiful park, and larger than I remembered. The spring flowers having faded, the summer ones are not yet at their peak, but the woodland walk is peaceful and shady with little quirky diversions.

The name Cannizaro dates back to 1832 when Count St Antonio was occupant of the house, then called Warren House, became Duke of Cannizzaro in Sicily. But he didn’t hang around. He went off with his mustress to Milan leaving behind his Scottish wife who kept the house and gardens until her death in 1841.

Later, the second ‘z’ was dropped from the name, and after other occupants, Cannizaro became known as a country retreat whose visitors included Lord Tennyson, Oscar Wilde and Henry James. In the early 20th century the Wilson’s bought the entrie estate and lived in it from 1920 to 1947. The estate was finally sold to Wimbledon Corporation and Surrey County Council. Seperate conditional covenants to the sale meant that some of the lands was be used for housing, while other parts became the Royal Wimbledon Golf Course, allotments and so on. The house was destined to be an old people’s home.

The house, as I have said, is now a hotel. If you want to see what the inside of the hotel is like click here. You can book a room for around £120 per night through TripAdvisor!

The park is set out with different areas, the large main grassed area, the woodland walk, a rose garden as well as a sunken garden by the side of the house. There are many benches to relax on and enjoy the peace, plenty of space to picnic, as well as a couple of statues to find on your walkabout.

The houses close by in this part of the world are massive with gates and entry codes. Some are now apartments. There are also a couple of lovely pubs (when they re-open), The Crooked Billet and Hand in Hand. And of course, over the road is Wimbledon Common. What more could you ask for?

The pet graveyard (below) was a real unusual find. Hidden away off the main path, and yes, there does look like there are badger setts there.

Millennium Fountain, entrance – Canizzaro Park

Whitehall House, Cheam Village

Built in around 1500, the white wooden façade of Whitehall House stands out on Malden Road as the bus pulls into the village. The whole of this area is steeped in history. It was occupied by stone age people and the Romans built London Road (the A24) into London. The village stands between Worcester Park and Sutton (London Borough of Sutton). Farmers, potters and brewers worked here, and later Cheam bricks were produced here. King Henry VIII built a palace at Nonsuch Park (a short walk away) after having seen a palace in France. The name Nonsuch comes from there being non such palace like it! Gold leaf was used in abundance.

Model of Nonsuch Palace, built by Henry VIII

Whitehall House is open on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday and is run by volunteers who are knowledgeable and helpful. The house is free to explore. Inside are original beams and a wall where the property once ended (before it was extended). We were offered a leaflet pointing out the main features/things of interest to guide us through the ground, first floor and attic rooms. Firstly, we watched a short video about the history of Cheam. Then it was off to explore the rooms. I loved the twisty staircase (handrail for safety), and particularly enjoyed the attic rooms with the mish-mash of items from the past. Collections of things belonging to the previous occupants are set out in bundles around the rooms. Even in the roof space there are things dangling – children’s clothes, a chandelier – and the roof itself is original! My camera was clicking away like crazy.

There was lots of information up in the attic rooms. Lists of people who lived there, including the family and servants, a door which was marked with Royalist leanings, a marked place on the floor where the original staircase was, and lots else.

When we finally returned to ground floor we were in need of a cup of tea! The lovely vegetarian/vegan café was waiting for us. Dainty cups and saucers sat waiting on tables and behind us a view of the garden. A relaxing end to our visit. I must add that the toilet facilities are really good. These things are important!

The house had a makeover a while back and they’ve done a splendid job. I was told that the company who did the work have been in business since before Whitehall House was built! I guess they felt right at home. It really is an amazing place with a great history.

While we were there, we picked up a couple of leaflets – Whitehall street trail and Cheam trail. We shall be back to check those out at some time as Cheam village has a glut of wonderful buildings and spaces to enjoy.