Quiet London

Southbank

Last week I ventured into London. I wanted to see it before everything opens up again. The train journey in wasn’t busy, nor was the station. Everywhere was really quiet, though there were a few joggers out. I walked along the River Thames on the south side down as far at Tate Modern and the Millennium Bridge, briefly walked to The Globe, and then came back and crossed the bridge. Along the north bank it was also quiet.

Millennium Bridge

The Embankment gardens were occupied mostly with workmen taking breaks from whatever building they were working on behind the park. Temple Station appeared still to be shut. I came up to Embankment tube and then up to Charing Cross. There I crossed over and went to Martins-in-the-Fields, where a pretty empty Trafalgar Square was before me on the other side. What I was after was a photo of Oscar Wilde’s statue, which usually has someone sitting on it, or groups of people hanging around it. Today, it there was no one. However, road work barriers marred the shot. It’s like I’m not meant to get a good photo!

I’m doomed to get a decent photo

Walking back, I turned off to some side roads and then walked back over Hungerford Bridge, where there is a one-way walking system in place – very wise. By then I was hungry and weighing up my options. I decided to buy a sandwich from the station and go over to St John’s Churchyard to enjoy it. It was a nuisance having to keep putting my mask up and down to go in and out of the station. I admit I hate wearing a mask. Because I wear glasses, there is a knack to getting it just right otherwise every time I breathe my glasses steam up. It’s also hot and annoying! However, I’ll put up with it to get out and about again.

By Charing Cross

St John’s Churchyard (Waterloo) is one of my favourite places, and today it was almost empty. Normally it is buzzing with people. I sat on a bench to relax and eat my sandwich. As I was leaving I noticed the church was open, so I decided to go in for a few minutes. I’ve not been inside a church since February. At the door was hand sanitiser, and chairs spaced apart in a semi-circle. There was a lady at a desk keeping an eye on things, but otherwise I was the only one there.

Known for its Mosaic garden (created by Southbank Mosaics) this is a lovely example in St John’s Churchyard
St John’s, Waterloo
St John’s, Waterloo

River Walk – Kingston to Hampton Court & Molesey Lock

River Thames from Kingston Bridge – looking towards Hampton Court

This is a walk I have done many times over the years, well to Hampton Court anyway. Last week I ventured out on public transport for the first time since early March. I’d taken stock of buses and trains and how empty they were and decided I was happy now to use them. I had my face covering ready.

Kingston Bridge

The day was hot, but it hadn’t reached the 30c of later in the week. The walk began at Kingston Bridge and followed the pathway all the way to Hampton Court Palace. Home Park (a lovely park I’ve also walked) is on the right. I’m sure at one time it was possible to enter Hampton Court gardens from there, but these days there is a railing at the end of Long Water to stop that.

Although the Palace is still shut, I knew that the gardens were due to open and I had thought it would be a good place to stop and eat my sandwich. However, the gates were closed. An official looking man was standing around so I asked him what the situation was. He said the gardens were only open Wednesdays to Fridays and tickets had to be booked online (though the gardens are free). He also added that it wasn’t easy to get hold of tickets at the moment. I could imagine that everyone and his wife wanted a change of scenery after being cooped up for so long. In fact a friend of mine tried to get online tickets for a National Trust garden and all the tickets went in half an hour!

On the other side of the river (opposite Hampton COurt Palace) people bathed and swam
Coming up to Hampton Court Bridge

Instead it was a short hop over the road and Hampton Court Bridge and down onto the other side of the river. Shortly, there was Molesey Lock (cafe closed), but no place to sit. There were a lot of people here too. Perhaps it was more noticeable because the path is more narror here. Finally, I came across a small children’s park (play equipment still sealed), with benches. There was a nice shady place under a tree, far enough from the overflowing rubbish bin to suffice. This was a cool spot in which to relax. Afterwards it was a short walk to Hampton Court Station for the train. The train was almost emptuy – no one in the carriage I was in at first, and never more than two or three people afterwards.

Hampton Court Bridge from the Molesey side
Molesey Lock

It was lovely to go somewhere different, even though it’s a well trodden path for me. Do have a look at the websites of the Palace and Home Park for more information and some lovely photos.

Empty train carriage

I realise I took no photos of the Palace on this walk, though I would have had to take one through the railings. Anyway, so as not to disappoint you, I’ve delved into the archive for the one below.

Hampton Court Palace taken in April 2016

A mystery walk

Sometimes a walk takes you to unexpected places. This was one of those walks. I set off with only a vague idea of the direction I was going, but not the destination.

I began by retracing some of the steps I’d taken a few weeks beforehand, when searching for the source of Beverley Brook, crossing the field I call the horse field around Motspur Park way. On getting to the end, instead of turning right towards Worcester Park, I turned left to see where it took me. This turned out to be a lovely mystery walk. The footpath is well laid in tarmac. The only cars to come through were going to an Equestrian Centre, but I only encountered two cars the whole time. The path is tree lined and I found two other pathways – one leading to Arthur Road (Motspur Park) and the other to Trafalgar Road (I think it was), labelled as Sutton, though I believe it is actually Cheam.

The horse field, as I call it

Along the tree lined path there are blackberries growing. It seemed a popular walk on the late Sunday afternoon I was there, but became quieter the further I went. As I walked along it began to border a cemetery, and when I reached the end of the path, there was an entrance into the cemetery, known as the Merton and Sutton Joint Cemetery. I do find cemeteries and graveyards quite fascinating, so I had a quick wander before heading off again. Not sure now of quite where I was I continued down the winding road. To my left there appeared to be a green overgrown space which I felt must be accessed from somewhere. Then I found a stream. It ran underneath the road and out on the other side. I took photos and wondered if this was another part of Beverley Brook.

Merton & Sutton Cemetery
The unknown brook which turned out to be Beverley Brook after all.

I continued on until I came to another cemetery – The North Surrey (confusingly also known as Morden Cememtery), also an ecological space. Through the gates it looked impressive and well laid out, so I went to investigate. And it was impressive with wild areas, the mix of old and new graves, a beautiful garden of remembrance and circled enclosures with seating around a tree. The buildings were also impressive. Situated at the end of the driveway, they are the first things you see as you enter. And there is a beautiful memorial pond with fountain. It has been made to look like branches of a tree and each ‘leaf’ has the name of someone who has died. With plenty of space and benches to sit on there was the temptation to just sit and relax in this place. However, I aware of the time, so reluctantly said goodbye.

Heading left out of the gates I walked to the end of the road as I could see there was a pub on the other side of the roundabout. I could just make out that the pub had ‘Brook’ in the name. I thought I might be able to solve the mystery of the stream I had crossed (which, incidentally, runs through the North Surrey Cemetery). The name on the pub said The Morden Brook. I’d never heard of a Morden Brook, but I know there are many long forgotten brooks and streams that run through places. I decided I was look it up on my return home.

I began the journey home retracing my steps, with one exception – I took the path to Arthur Road. I’d heard the name of this road and thought I knew where it came out (I was right). The path was beautiful, shady and it ran between the cemetery and the horse field before running along side the park. I took a slightly different route home, crossing the level crossing near Motspur Park station and cutting off down other roads.

Once home I looked up the pub name and feel rather chuffed that I had been right about the stream. It is in fact part of Beverley Brook before it heads off to Beverley Fields, RIchmond Park, Barnes Common, Putney and into the Thames. The pub, The Morden Brook, was originally The Beverley and built in the 1900’s. Read about it here. I love it when things come together.

Cannizaro Park, Wimbledon

Cannizaro Park sits on the edge of Wimbledon Common and above is a picture of the house, now a hotel (Hotel Du Vin). However the conservatory is open to the public as a cafe (though obviously not at the moment, sadly). The park is free to visit.

It was a fair walk for me to reach here, and a trek uphill. My only thought was how easy it would be going back downhill afterwards! But it was worth the walk, for this is a beautiful park, and larger than I remembered. The spring flowers having faded, the summer ones are not yet at their peak, but the woodland walk is peaceful and shady with little quirky diversions.

The woodland walk

The name Cannizaro dates back to 1832 when Count St Antonio was occupant of the house, then called Warren House, became Duke of Cannizzaro in Sicily. But he didn’t hang around. He went off with his mustress to Milan leaving behind his Scottish wife who kept the house and gardens until her death in 1841.

The sunken garden

Later, the second ‘z’ was dropped from the name, and after other occupants, Cannizaro became known as a country retreat whose visitors included Lord Tennyson, Oscar Wilde and Henry James. In the early 20th century the Wilson’s bought the entrie estate and lived in it from 1920 to 1947. The estate was finally sold to Wimbledon Corporation and Surrey County Council. Seperate conditional covenants to the sale meant that some of the lands was be used for housing, while other parts became the Royal Wimbledon Golf Course, allotments and so on. The house was destined to be an old people’s home.

The house, as I have said, is now a hotel. If you want to see what the inside of the hotel is like click here. You can book a room for around £120 per night through TripAdvisor!

Hotel Du Vin

The park is set out with different areas, the large main grassed area, the woodland walk, a rose garden as well as a sunken garden by the side of the house. There are many benches to relax on and enjoy the peace, plenty of space to picnic, as well as a couple of statues to find on your walkabout.

The houses close by in this part of the world are massive with gates and entry codes. Some are now apartments. There are also a couple of lovely pubs (when they re-open), The Crooked Billet and Hand in Hand. And of course, over the road is Wimbledon Common. What more could you ask for?

The pet graveyard (below) was a real unusual find. Hidden away off the main path, and yes, there does look like there are badger setts there.

The Avairy

Millennium Fountain, entrance – Canizzaro Park

Week 11 of lockdown

MY WEEK IN PICTURES

This has been a slow week. Not being able to get to places is starting to take its toll. The weather has also changed, though the garden really does need the rain. This afternoon we had a short thunderstorm and a decent amount of rain at last.

Our Farmer’s Market was up and running today for the first time since lockdown, but unfortunately the fruit and veg stall wasn’t there. There were only perhaps six or seven stalls. I do hope the other stalls come back soon.

While other shops are starting to reopen, the only ones I’m interested in are book shops. The decent one is bus ride away. What I long for is the re-opening of museums and galleries. To say that boredom is setting in is an understatement. To try and keep sane I have been dabbling in art and experimenting with different forms. I’m a hopeless watercolour painter, but I do like using pen, ink and charcoal. I’m mixing things up to see how they work. Felt tip pens and crayons are also quite good fun.

Pen and ink wash

I’ve also spend time trying to capture the moon in its phases as it reached its fullness yesterday (5th June). But we had two nights of cloudy skies and I wasn’t able to see the moon. Then last night I got up to use the bathroom and through the window I saw the moon. Well, I had to capture it even though it was 3am and it meant standing in the back garden in my dressing gown. For a couple of shots I leaned out of the bathroom window. Success!

Phases of the moon

Part of the stone snake in my local park

Head of the snake

In Search of Orphelia

The Hogsmill River rises in Ewell and runs into the River Thames at Kingston. The length is approximately 6.2 miles. In the past I have walked it, doing it in two sections, but last week it was just a small section I wanted to re-visit, the site where John Everett Millias painted Orphilia.

The last time I walked this section there was no physical evidence of where the painting took place, but this could have been because I was on the wrong side of the river, or the area hadn’t had any notification. I think the former is more likely as I found myself on the wrong side of the river..again! I had to double back and enter Six Acre Meadow, which somehow I’d missed!

I found my way to the Hogsmill via a pathway which runs along the side of St John’s Church, Old Malden. The footpaths are shaded with trees and there are information boards telling you the sort of wildlife you may see. My first mistake was to cross the first bridge and turn right (I should have gone left). This path led down to a new play area being built called Knollmead Play Area close to the path leading to Malden Manor. There is a bridge here with two alternative routes. I found a map nearby and realised I had missed the site altogether.

I doubled back walking under a bridge on the other side of the river. The bridge wall here had a community mozaic and alongside it a plaque commemorating the painting of Orphlia. I knew I was close. Finally I came out in Six Acre Meadow, which I recognised from my previous visit, and began walking alongside the river. A short walk brought me to the information board, and right by it is the clearing where the painting is said to have taken place.

Community moziac

John Millias was a Pre-Raphaelite painter, along with Dante Gabriel Rossetti and WIlliam Holman Hunt. They formed a Brotherhood in 1848 with James Collinson and Frederic George Stephens. Rossetti’s brother was the secretary. Later a second Pre-Raphaelite phase saw Edward Burne Jones and William Morris join them. My personal favourite of this group of artists is William Morris. I may have mentioned this before in my posts, so perhaps I won’t wax lyrical here about him as this is about Orphelia, a painting inspired by Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Millias painted the background detail here by the river and Orphelia herself was painted in his studio in Gower Street, London.

The plaque commemorating the painting

This is where the painting is said to have been done (just right of the board in the top picture)

The model for this painting was nineteen year old Lizzie Siddel, who was discovered in hat shop by a friend. She later married Rosetti, and what a tragic story that is! Anyway, to pose for this painting, Lizzie laid in a bath of water, lit below by oil lamps to keep the water warm. Millias was so engrossed in his painting that he failed to notice that the lamps had gone out. Lizzie became quite ill afterwards and needed medical treatment. Later Lizzie’s father insisted that Millia foot the bill for the treatment. To learn more about the painting of Orphelia follow the link here. To learn more about the Pre-Raphaelites in general follow the link here.

Six Acre Meadow

After discovering what I set out to find, I walked a little further on in the Kingston direction, then turned back and came off at the path leading to Malden Manor.

Through the trees is St John’s Church, Old Malden

Two Parks in South West London

The pedestrian/cycle path runs along the side of the railway line

On Monday I set off on a walk with my youngest son who had a few days off from work. We’d both been considering a walk in the same area so when I asked him if he wanted to walk with me, he said yes. Like me he often likes walking on his own, so I never push it, but it was nice to have his company and a chance to chat.

Beverley Brook or Coombe Brook runs through Malden Golf Course

Our destination was a park in West Wimbledon called Morley Park. I’d read online that it has a nature walk. Getting there was easier enough. We managed to avoid most of the busy roads by going back ways and using a pedestrian/cycle path. The park itself has a children’s play area and tennis courts. It is also has regular usage by Urseline High School in Wimbledon. Walking up through the park you come to steps that take you to a pond. Thought it had dried out somewhat, there was a dog enjoying what was left.

The pond – Morley Park

The nature walk was rather smaller than I envisaged and we were through it quickly. We then had a choice to make – go back down or walk up to Copse Hill. We chose the latter where you get a wonderful high view looking down towards where we live.

Nearby is Holland Gardens (not to be confused with Holland Park in Kensington). I have been here before. Again the views are great and the park is in two halves. The top park has the flower beds, a grassy area dominated by a large tree. Here we sat on a bench to eat our sandwiches.

The view from West Wimbledon

To the side of the park are the tennis courts, a rose lined pathway runs along on edge of it. Below the main gardens (which are being prepared for new plants) is the main playing green. The other entrance gate is down here and was the way we came out. We decided to walk back home the same way to avoid most of the roads. This turned out to be another two and three quarter hour walk, yet it didn’t seem as far as the Beverley Brook walk of the previous week – maybe that’s because I had company and I didn’t get lost!

The entrance
At the bottom of the park looking up

Searching for the source of Beverley Brook

First glimpse of Beverley Brook

Last week I went on a local walk, bearing in mind that I would have to allow myself enough energy to walk back., us still being in Lockdown. My aim was to find the source of Beverley Brook. Two or three years ago I walked this brook in the other direction (it took two walks) from New Malden where you can see the book adjacent to Dreams and Currys on Burlington Road (the entrance to the car park, left, hidden behind a corrugated fence) and then it runs under the road, along the backs of houses in Beverley Road. It passes behind an industrial estate before crossing the A3 where it skirts Wimbledon Common before running through the edge of Richmond Park, across Barnes Common (where there is a nice old graveyard) and finally out into the River Thames at Putney. A leaflet for this walk can be found at https://www.merton.gov.uk/assets/Documents/beverly-brook-walk.pdf

The walk in the other direction is not so well documented. Articles quote Cuddington Park in Worcester Park as being the source, but I have not found a map of the walk, save Paul Talling’s website where he lists some places where Beverley Brook can be seen, and he offers some photos. So, armed with a photo of the relevant parts from an A-Z map (primitive, but that’s me), I set off.

This lesser-known river was called Beferithi in 693, getting its name from where Beavers lived (they live there no more). My first sighting of the brook was over a small bridge where two roads meet – Motspur Park and West Barnes Lane. Here I followed it found as it passes along Fulham Football FC Training Ground. I followed it into a no-through road where we had to part company as it ran behind houses. There was a lot of road walking then before I eventually came out on Malden Road and cut the big sweeping corner off by stepping through the edge of Malden Manor Park before joining the main road until I reached Worcester Park Station. Here Paul Talling said Beverley Brook came out. I found it (with some excitement) just around the corner in Green Lane. There was far more to be seen than I thought there might be.

I turned back and crossed Central Road and headed up Lynwood Drive and into Sandringham Road where I found Cuddington Park. It’s a lovely park, but I had to walk the whole length of it to find the source, a rather disappointing sludge coming from a pipe. Yet I was excited. I then managed to follow the brook down back through the park using a small footpath behind the trees until it ran underground again.

I retraced my footsteps back to Central Road but this time I decided to walk back via Green Lane to see how much there was of Beverley Brook that way. It turned out to be quite a lot as it ran along the side of the road until its end. There were some giveaways too by the names of roads – Beverley and Brookside. By the local primary school, Beverley Brook disappeared down the side, and here I got lost! I tried going one way, which was in the right direction of the brook, but the road seemed to be going in a circle. I had to double back to where I last saw the river and headed in another direction. I had no idea where I was going, but I seemed to be entering a field. There were a few people about so I asked someone where it led. The lady told me to Sir Joseph’s Hood Park. That was just what I wanted!

Cuddington Park

Walking through the field with horses on both sides, the wide open space was lovely. The fields were full of wild flowers and the imposing gas works (so majestic) were on my left. There was to be no more sightings of Beverley Brook which ran along by the gas works (where I couldn’t walk). The map shows the brook running alongside of the park, but though I entered a path that took me into trees I was unable to find it. Nevertheless, I was happy to have found so much evidence of the brook and finally to complete the whole accessible route from source to Thames.

Green Lane
My last sight of Beverley Brook by the Primary School


Note: Paul Talling’s book London’s Lost Rivers, is an excellent source of information with maps and photos of the many rivers running through London. Sadly, some can only be heard through drains these days as they have been built over, but some, like Beverely Brook, rise up in certain places, and evidence can still be found in road names and other signs. Paul’s website is https://www.londonslostrivers.com/ He runs walking tours of lost rivers and has a Facebook page. The information on his website was most helpful in guiding me to the right places on this walk.

My week in pictures, plus something from the archive

This week there has been a birthday celebration. One of sons shares his birthday with Sir David Attenborough, and it happened to fall on the day of VE Day celebrations this year – that odd Friday Bank Holiday that put me in a tiss about where in the week I was!

I decided to do something different. Normally, we would go out for a meal as a celebration perhaps, but with lockdown that was off the agenda. Instead I arranged a garden games party. I baked a lemon cake and followed a recipe for homemade lemonade and made notes. I even put together an invite with a list of refreshments and games to email to the rest of the family stuck inside this house.

The weather was perfect and the afternoon was great fun. It’s amazing what you can devise with a clutch of sponge balls, flowerpots, buckets, sticks and chalk. It got everyone together, and despite smirks and no responses when I first mentioned it, they all pitched in, found their inner child and competitiveness and went with it.

The garden is bursting into life as new plants flower, and we had our delivery of plants ordered online from a company keen not to lose their stock while in lockdown. We purchased a random box of around nine plants and a bag of compost.

My peas have flowers, but my other veg is sadly silent, in that they haven’t even surfaced. I think they have perished. I am not a natural gardener, I think I may have said before, but I’ve worked on the garden more this year than any other year. This week I cleared another bed of plants that are taking over the whole space. My youngest son began weeding the lawn of plants that have rooted themselves into it. The task is endless and I swear there will be no grass left if everything that shouldn’t be there is removed. However, my son has become addicted to weeding, so let’s not say too much! He says it is therapeutic and who am I to argue? I find cleaning out the filter of the hoover therapeutic (when I’m in the mood), so each to their own, I say.

From the archive I have something a little different. In 2016 my son told me about a cars and bike meet within walking distance of us. I’m not sure if this is a regular thing, but we went over for a look. Although I’ve never been on a motorbike I do have a bit of a thing for them, and maybe one day I’ll get to travel on the back of one (though as I get older I get more nervous about it). Anyway here is a selection of cars and bikes I took photos of that day. If it’s not your thing there will be something different next week. Take care.

My Week in pictures (6) and something from the archive

I visit Sussex quite regularly, especially around the Brighton and Eastbourne areas. Unfortunately, it’s unlikely that I shall get there this year, but I live in hope. I thought I’d share a few photos of a walk I took with my family back in 2004 along the South Downs Way taking in The Old Man of Wilmington. The countryside is stunning and I miss being able to walk there, or anywhere in the countryside right now.

This week I reached a mini goal in my jogging by running down the side of the park and along the back until I came to the where the main path slices the park in half, all without stopping. Then it’s a walk until I come to a certain post then off again until I reach the trees. That is my favourite part of the journey. It is peaceful and I always stop (I need to by then anyway!) and admire the undergrowth. Them I set off again to the top of the park – another breather – a short run, another stop and then I’m in the final stretch. At the end I sometimes visit the flower garden and take some photos.

I’ve been binge watching Look Up London videos of virtual walks in London and Museums in Quarantine on BBC4, catching up with some art exhibitions that closed before I could see them, plus others I probably wouldn’t have gone to, but I found them interesting nonetheless. These included Young Rembrandt, Andy Warhol, and a documentary about Monet’s garden and other artist’s gardens. The later was particularly beautiful and relevant to me as we were due to visit Monet’s garden in June. This is the nearest I would get to it this year, sadly, but I am even more excited about the prospect of visiting next year (all being well).

So, here is my week in pictures.

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