Heather Walker

Clapham Common

This isn’t a part of London I know really (SW4), yet I pass through it on the tube sometimes, and often through the main line station of Clapham Junction. However, I’d heard of a shop in Clapham called The Hive Honey Shop and I thought it was about time I visited. Unfortunately, the shop has moved its business online, but I didn’t know that when I set off from Clapham Junction station.

The shop used to be in Northcote Road, a long road leading from St John’s Hill, Clapham. The road boasts lots of independent shops and was quite a surprise to me.

My second destination was Clapham Common. I was hoping by then for a cafe as it was a warm day and all the walking was making me thirsty.

We have had some rain at last, and the grass is beginning to recover with a few patches of green. Unfortunately, the trees are suffering from stress and we are now in what is known as a false autumn. Trees are shedding their leaves early. They are brown and brittle.

Clapham itself is quite spread out and boasts three tube stations on the Northern Line. The common has a Victorian bandstand and a modern cafe with those all important toilets! You can read the history of the common here where J M W Turner painted a view across the common between 1800 and 1805.

The cafe made a good stopping place for a cup of tea and a sit down. In fact, I sat on the bench in memory of Jeremy Brett, the actor best known for his portrayal of Sherlock Homes.

In this photo you can see that smaller trees have been packed with green bags filled with earth to help support them during the dry conditions. Small trees don’t possess the deep root system of the larger ones, and without this help, they may not survive.

I wandered in the direction of the pond, and this was my favourite spot.

Walking in the other direction, I was heading towards the town and here there was another pond.

Temperance Fountain – woman giving water to a beggar

A busy main road with some nice old buildings

Time to leave. I’ve enjoyed Clapham. I must explore this part of London more.

Looking down on the platforms at Clapham Common station

Three churches and something completely different

It was lovely to be back in London last week, and despite the rain (most welcome after the heatwave) I enjoyed it. I thought I’d start with the ‘something completely different’.

I began at This Bright Land currently at Somerset House courtyard (closes 29th August). The stalls don’t open until midday, but I just wanted a wander around and see what was there. I loved the garden, the toadstools, flamingos and giraffes!

My second stop on my wanderings was St Clement Danes Church in Strand. I have been here once before, but a small orchestra was rehearsing, so on this visit I was able to walk around freely. St Clement Danes is the RAF central church. Here they hold remembrance records and memorabilia. It is a most beautiful church with the insignia of the RAF everywhere.

By the time I left the church a light rain had begun to fall.

I made way towards Temple Church, I place I hadn’t been to for maybe 20 years. The Da Vinci Code (Dan Brown) made this place rather famous as the author used this for one of his locations. I have read the book, and despite all the bad reviews (unchecked locations!), I loved it. The book had not long been out when I went to Temple Church, though this was not my main reason for going. I just like visiting new places! It was free to visit then. Now there is a charge of £5 (£3 concession), but very worth it. There is a lot of merchandise available now which wasn’t there before. And even more exciting to me was the opening of the upstairs. Something new to see.

Temple Church was the English headquarters of the Knights Templar and built as London’s Jerusalem. There are information boards all around the walls telling the story. The church is a working church and is most beautiful with its pews facing across the nave, rather than towards the altar. It has some fantastic stained glass windows.

Looking from the nave towards the round church

On the steps leading to the upper floor is a tiny cell (penitentiary), said to be too small to stand up in! From above you look down on the round church, consecrated in 1185. The church is also the place where the Magna Carta was discussed. For more of the history, please have a look at Temple Church website.

By the time I came out of Temple Church, the rain was really going for it. I decided now was a good time to stop for lunch, so that’s what I did. From my table I was able to watch the rain pounding the pavement. Thankfully, it tailed off, and I was able to continue my walk to Trafalgar Square with a visit to St Martin-in-the-Fields.

And here is what I came to look at! Easily missed in Trafalgar Square, though I have seen it before. Built in the 1920’s this was used by the Police to watch Trafalgar Square because there were so many protests! It used to have a telephone and the gas lamp on top was converted to electric. These days cleaners keep their buckets and cleaning equipment in there!

I hope you have enjoyed this little jaunt around London with me.

A parched land

In the past week, the UK has been experiencing a second heatwave. There has been no rain since the break in the previous heatwave in July, and there really wasn’t enough of it. The photo above shows what was once a green field. This is a lovely spot, with acres of fields and green space leading down to the River Hogsmill. But everywhere is the same. All the parks, especially in London and the south are parched and scorched. There is no pleasure in walking these places right now.

The last time I remember seeing grass like this was back in the 1970’s, the long hot summer, but it was never as bad as this. Rivers are drying up, reservoirs are emptying, and temperatures have been over 30c for several days. It is too hot to go out by mid-morning. For me, it’s been to hot to travel anywhere. I even went shopping at 10pm to the 24 hour Tesco! The last time I went anywhere else was on Wednesday when I attended a singing workshop. There they had the aircon on (not great for the environment). It was up so high, it was actually a pleasure to come outside in the heat! It was around 30c that day.

Across Europe, fires are still raging that have been going for weeks, main rivers are drying up so boats cannot pass anymore, old villages and bridges once submerged under water are re-emerging. If people cannot see this is climate change, when will they?

I love this planet. I love walking in the countryside, being close to nature and rivers. Right now, it is distressing to see and I long for rain (I never thought I’d say that), but like my craving for cups of tea on a walk, rain is fast becoming my desire. The earth is crying out for rain. And I am too.

I heard this morning that the first ten miles of the River Thames from its source in Gloucestershire are now dry. No river. Drought is something we see in the developing world due to climate change, but did we take notice then, even though the west is the main cause? No. Now it’s here, will we take notice? Sadly, it seems that changing the way we live to save this planet is low down on people’s list of priorities. Most people (?) would agree this is climate change, but changing anything is an inconvenience some are not prepared to endure. And of course people don’t like to be told what to do. So how do we persuade them?

This wasn’t what I set out to write about this morning, but I’ve been aware of climate change for decades, when people thought I was weird (I think some still do). I’d rather be called weird than see this world die. I am finding it difficult to live in this heatwave and see what it is doing to the earth. What is this world going to look like in ten, 20 or 30 years? It breaks my heart that profits come before people, and governments talk a lot but do hardly anything. This world has so much to offer us if we just work with it. We are part of it, the trees are our lungs, we are connected to the earth, an intricate part, interwoven with it, but we do not own it. Make no mistake, the earth will recover because nature is stronger than us. It may yet destroy us because of our abuse. The planet can get along just fine without us. If we want to be part of it, still here to enjoy it, then our hearts have to change.

I cannot end on negatives, and this week we saw the last Supermoon of the year (I think I’ve got that right). After my dash to Tesco in the night, I came out to capture the brilliant moon.

Walk safely and never leave anything behind except your footprint.

Brantwood – home of John Ruskin

On the last day of our holiday in the Lake District, we set off to walk to Brantwood from our hotel. We borrowed one of HF Holidays’ self-guided walk maps which was well laid out with instructions as well as the map itself.

The walk was easy and beautiful. We knew the weather forecast was iffy, but we went prepared. It was warm and soon there was sunshine, though looking across the water, mist and dark skies surrounded the mountains. This made for some atmospheric photography.

We were in Swallows & Amazons country. I’d missed out on all this when I was a child (I have now bought a DVD film adaptation of the book, which I’ve yet to watch).

We arrived at Brantwood just as the drizzle started. A good time to go inside the house! Maybe this is a good time to explain about the house. John Ruskin bought and moved here in his 50’s. Ruskin was a well-known art critic and water colourist. He had an interest in geology, encouraged by his father.

Ruskin was a very complicated man brought up by a dominating, over zealous Christian mother. She schooled him and ruled him. He had few friends, but did have contact with his cousins. When he left for University, his mother went with him to rooms nearby. Imagine that!

Later he did the ‘Grand Tour’ and was aware that some buildings were being changed as they were renovated, so Ruskin set about sketching these before they disappeared. He influenced the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and became a great supporter of their art, meeting them about once a month for discussions. Ruskin also lectured and would walk up and down the stage as he spoke. He was even known to dress up as a bird or animal! He was a harsh critic of things he did not approve of, yet his vision was forward thinking. He stood up women and the ordinary man, and thought art should be for everyone, not just the upper classes.

In love, he was not successful. He had a liking for young women, perhaps for their innocence and looks. In his teens he met Effie Gray (a distant cousin), and married her, but the marriage was never consummated. A lot has been written about this relationship (films have been made about it too!). When Ruskin took John Everett Millais with him and Effie to the Scotland, the two young people were attracted to one another. Millais painted Ruskin’s portrait (though most of this was painted in a studio). See painting here.

Effie and John Ruskin divorced, and Effie married John Millais and had a large family. Ruskin never spoke about Effie again, not even in his writings, and he wrote a lot! His final romantic interest was with Rose La Touche in his thrirties She was 17. The relationship lasted 17 years before Rose died. Ruskin never got over this.

Living at the house in Brantwood was his cousin Joan Severn who was Ruskin’s housekeeper until he died in 1900. Joan was married to artist Arthur Severn and they and their children lived in another part of the house.

I can see why Ruskin loved this house, elevated as it is, with views across the water and surrounded by 250 acres of gardens and woodland. Ruskin and Joan created seven distinct gardens stretching from the lake shore and jetty to the fell top. They are lush with springy moss, beautiful flowers and little nooks. Such a peaceful place to sit to have lunch.

The house consists of the hall, dining room, study, drawing room with annexe, the Blue Gallery and the shop. Upstairs is Ruskin’s bedroom where he built a turret, and the ideas room, which was originally a bedroom and where Ruskin slept after his breakdown.

Ruskin suffered from depression and had several breakdowns in his later years. Joan nursed him through them all and stuck with him despite his rages. In his writings, he admitted he could not have managed without Joan.

In the annexe there is a lovely photograph album with photos of Ruskin, Joan and her family, along with visitors to the house. It was a delight to view.

Drawing Room. On the piano is a piece Ruskin composed. I had no idea he had composed music.

Study where Ruskin worked with his secretaries (he had three)

Dining Room. The painting is of Ruskin aged 3

Ruskin’s bedroom. These are copies or prints of Turner’s paintings. The originals were sold.

The Turret. I can just imagine myself sitting here with a book and cuppa!

Ruskin’s carriage. I can just see him coming along those narrow lanes in this!

Even back in Ruskin’s day he was aware things were changing. He was so close to nature that he noticed the little things others didn’t. He was vocal about what he saw, but I expect his warnings fell on deaf ears. Not much has changed!

Lush is the only word I can use about the gardens

The gallery with an exhibition about the author of Swallows & Amazons.

Before we leave the house (there is a lovely cafe here, by the way. It’s in a separate building), I must just tell you about the all important toilets. They are some of the nicest and colourful I have ever seen. Just take a look at the photo below.

We decided to walk down to the jetty. Ferries call in here and we thought we might catch one back to Coniston. To find the jetty, we walked through more of Ruskin’s gardens. Vegetable grow here and countless flowers. It is so pretty.

We were told the Gondola didn’t stop here on our tour, but it seems it stops by request. I don’t know what happened between us booking this holiday and being told the yacht wasn’t stopping, but hey-ho, we caught it for the ten minute trip back to Coniston! And guess who was standing at the jetty at Coniston? Our group and Phil, the leader, waiting for their lake tour! I think that round was to us!

To complete the day (and my pilgrimage, because this is what this day was for me), I wanted to see Ruskin’s grave. The town of Coniston is about a mile from where our hotel is, and this was the first time we had been down here. I know there is a Ruskin Museum, but we never made it there. But we did find Ruskin’s grave and the grave of Donald Campbell who died on Coniston Water trying to break the world water speed.

John Ruskin’s grave, St Andrew’s Church, Coniston

Grave of Douglas Campbell is in the New Graveyard off the main road

This was terrific day. I would happily visit the house again if I’m back that way. The house and gardens were beyond my expectations and I was thrilled to have finally seen where John Ruskin lived in later life. I hope you have enjoyed it too.

Lake District mid-week break

This holiday was fraught with worries about train strikes. In the end, the strikes came on the Wednesday (we left on the Monday) and Saturday (the day after we returned home. We were lucky in more ways that one. The train before ours had been cancelled, so there were double the amount of passengers on our train. Every seat was taken and people were still standing with luggage in the corridors. We had reserved seats, but had our train been cancelled, that would no longer apply. On the return the branch line between Windermere and Oxenholme had problems and two trains were cancelled. To connect with the London train, we had to go by taxi from Coniston all the way to Oxenholme, which was expensive, but there was no option. There seemed to be similar problems on the main train coming back to London, but luckily we again had seats.

Having got the moan over, we come to the main event. Our first surprise was how green everything was. Further south grass is like straw. Greenery is hard to come by. There has been no real rain for weeks. In the Lakes the air was sweet and scenery lush. Weather-wise they had had more rain than in the south, and while we were there we had some drizzle, but nothing spoiled our walking with sightseeing trip booked through HF Holidays. This is the 8th holiday I have had with them, from pure walking holidays to walking with sightseeing and special interest holidays. They take care of everything and all meals are included.

The view of Lake Coniston from hotel grounds

So, on arrival at Monk Coniston (our base) there was tea laid on with scones and cookies! Before we had even unpacked one of the leaders took us on a walk through the grounds, owned (like the house) by the National Trust (the house is leased to the holiday company). There was an on/off drizzle as we looked at trees and given instructions about where the gates led (one down to Lake Coniston, which we had a view of from the bedroom window.

There was then time to unpack before meeting our leader and the group we would be with. There were just eight of us in our group, and Phil, our leader. Phil told us where we would be going in the morning and what we would be doing, and then it was on to dinner with a whole other bunch of people to meet.

Tuesday:

Drizzle greeted us this morning, but being the optimist, I was holding out for something better. We boarded our minibus at 9.15am and set off for Windermere where we strolled up to a viewing point before a slow walk alongside the river. The views were beautiful. We were also treated to a flypast of US aircraft on manoeuvres. The speed, agility and the sheer noise was, I admit, exciting! The weather was brightening all the time and it wasn’t long before blue skies appeared and the sun showed its face.

A bit too fast to get a good shot with mobile! USA plane

We arrived at Wray Castle in hot sunshine. This was a busy place, a major stop obviously as there is a car park. Some of the group were going down to near the jetty where we booked onto a ferry later. Two of our party tried queuing for tea, but gave up as it was so busy. We made use of the facilities inside the door of the castle, ate our lunch in the sunshine, and headed down to join the others. It might have been nice to take a look inside the castle (which is actually a home, not a castle!), but no one seemed that bothered. This is one thing about travelling with others! When I go solo I stop where I want. However, there are advantages of travelling with others. You can’t have it both ways!

The ferry ride took us to Ambleside where we promised tea (this tea thing is not just me then!). The cafes were manic and Phil asked our minibus driver if she could take us to a different place where we would be ending our walk the next day. Chesters by the River turned out to be a great place to stop, and the tea tasted like nectar!

Before dinner we had a stroll down to the lake and that evening there was a little quiz run by one of the leaders which was fun.

Wednesday:

This was a day of contrasts with good weather all day. We headed into Langdale, where we walked before moving on to another place for a second walk and to visit a slate mine. Wow! This was breathtaking. It was a day of spectacular views, streams, and waterfalls. My photos can’t do this day justice. Our minibus driver, Laura, was fun and her driving on narrow roads with tight passing earned her a round of applause. We had a great lunch stop and ended up Chesters by the River for tea before heading back to our hotel.

We were told that this lake is used in the opening credits of BBC’s Countryfile

Our last (unscheduled) stop was Tarn Hows. From here we walked back to our hotel. What a lovely walk.

After dinner that night we took part in the national HF Holiday quiz. This is always fun. I’m sure the questions have got harder over the years. Our little quiz party came 3rd, but then there were only three groups! It’s the taking part, isn’t it?!

Our final day we opted out of the programme to do our thing. Originally, our tour was to include a stop at Brantwood, the house of John Ruskin. Unfortunately, this was no longer to be. As this (for me) was the reason I booked this holiday, we organised it ourselves and used one of HF Holidays self-guided walks (most excellent!) as it is it just two miles from the hotel. We had a lovely day. Because there is much to say about this, I have decided to write a separate blog post about this. Look out for it! For now, I shall leave you hanging in the Lakes!

Red House, Bexleyheath, Kent

Red House was built by architect Philip Webb for William Morris. The two were good friends. The Morris’ only lived here for five years, and some of the wall decorations are incomplete, but the house is beautiful and fascinating. There were plans for Edward Burne-Jones and his family to move in later, making it a village for the Arts and Craft Movement, but the extension planned was never forthcoming because circumstances changed. The Burne-Jones’ lost their baby boy shortly after birth (he was premature) and the constant trips to London for business got too much for William Morris, so it was decided to move the family back to London. Morris could not bear to return to house once it was sold on. It was his dream home.

As readers to this blog will know, William Morris is a hero of mine and regularly crops up in posts! This house has been on my ‘hit list’ for many years and it did not disappoint. Entrance to the house is by tour only, booked in advance. It’s free to National Trust members. Not all the rooms are accessible, but enough. Owners after the Morris’ did paint over things, but on occasions left strips to show what it was like. Most of the furniture is not original (though there is little furniture anyway), but what is there is in keeping with the Arts and Craft Movement. Original pieces were gifted to museums. The Ashmoleum Museum in Oxford has some pieces (gifted by Janey Morris after William’s death) as Morris studied at the University as well as helped paint the Debating Chamber of the new Oxford Union, recruited by Rossetti. Other pieces can be found at other houses the Morris’ lived in and the museum in Walthamstow (Morris’ childhood home)

The inside of the front door is not original, but the then owner repainted it and followed the lines of the previous decoration. The stained glass was also added. I think it fits in well with the style.

The entrance hall is large and was used by the Morris’ as a dining hall. A table was moved into the space and lively conversation, as well as good food, would have made for an interesting evening with all of Morris’ friends. Morris was known for his love of food (Edward Burne-Jones often drew little cartoon sketches of Morris as round and jolly, and sometimes in a fit of temper, which his close friends seemed to encourage!). Morris also liked his drink and would come up from the cellar with several bottles of wine.

The settled in the entrance hall was designed by Philip Webb especially for the house. Morris painted the central panels with a scene from Malory (Sir Lancelot bringing Sir Tristram and the Belle Iseult to Joyous Gard). They include portraits of Janey (seated left) and Burne-Jones feeding a cherry to his wife Georgiana. However, the piece remains unfinished and was later painted green, and then brown during the second world war when the house was occupied by the National Assistance Board. I believe Rations Books may have been kept in in the settle cupboard!

The wallpaper in the house is not original as the house was pre-Morris’ wallpapers, but was added at a later date.

The dining room has a row of original William Morris chairs as well as a dresser designed by Webb and painted dragon’s blood red (in keeping with Red House!). This was a favourite colour of William Morris.

Kindy do not sit on the WIlliam Morris chairs!

Embroidered panel depicting Aphrodite designed by William Morris and believed to have been worked by Morris’ sister-in-law, Bessie Burden)

I loved the landing with its wood floor, sofa and beautiful windows worked by William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones.

Not sure if this is original. I suspect not, but covered with William Morris fabric. (Landing)

William Morris’ bedroom was quite a surprise in that it was quite small. There were no furnishings here except wall paintings, unfinished and not in best condition. Those who came after Morris whitewashed the walls, but there are patches where you can see what was there before. Again, the paintings are unfinished.

Unfinished painted wall in the bedroom depicting characters from the Bible, including (far left) Adam and Eve

This wall hanging is a copy of one worked on by Janey Morris. The original is at Kelmscott

Morris’ studio. This is one of two wood blocks on show for Morris wallpapers

In the studio the walls are cracking! Apparently, the foundations were not sunk deep enough and lies on chalk. However, the outside cracks have been dealt with, but inside they have been left. I believe it was here that the extension was going to be placed for the Burne-Jones family.

Fireplace, drawing room. Apparently it was rather smoky!

The drawing room is upstairs (like the studio) and the room I most wanted to see as I’d seen images of it online. Look closely at some of these photos to spot the cracks in the walls!

The ceiling was painted over by a new owner, but he left a few strips of the original (he also put the false beams in to make it look more rustic!). The original ceiling would have looked like the photo below.

The piano was given by Ford Maddox Brown, a pre-Raphaelite artist

The settle in the drawing room was designed by William Morris for his Red Lion Square home, but when it moved here Philip Webb added the canopy and ladder to create a gallery where plays were performed. It also had another use as access to the massive loft space where things were stored. Little doors leading to places interest me. There is another door similar to this on the landing which we were told was used to go through to ‘clear the pigeons away’ as it went into loft space.

The wall decorations are by Edward Burne-Jones and Rossetti. They seem to be the only completed works in the house!

Wall painting by Edward-Burne Jones (top) decoration to the bottom (William Morris), drawing room

We were told that the house is freezing in the winter and hot in the summer. It was certainly very hot inside the day we were there, and not many windows open. (I did wonder whether the windows were too delicate to open or that they were worried about things inside being spoiled!)

Our tour was almost over. Downstairs there is a room given open as a museum with various information boards with the history of the house and objects belonging to Philip Webb and Morris. And then we went into the garden where we were free to roam.

The house exceeded my expectations. I may go back one day as it is a lot to take in. I loved the gardens, too. The house is only open on certain days of the week and there is no cafe any longer. However, there are the all important toilets! The nearest railway station is Bexleyheath with trains into London. However, due to a mistake (I hold my hands up to this one!), we went on a different train and ended up at Bexley. I have to say in hindsight, this turned out to be the best option. Bexley has a village feel whereas Bexleyheath is just like most big towns (Morris liked Bexley!). Bexleyheath is just a short bus ride away and we were able to stop and have some lunch. Coming from Bexleyheath station it is a bit of a walk to the town and then you have to walk back to the house. Had the cafe at Red House still been there, this would not be a problem.

Summer Exhibition – Royal Academy

A friend and I have been going along to the Summer Exhibition for some years now. There is always something provocative, stunning and surprising to see. What I particularly like is the contrast of art, from prints to watercolour, mixed media, installations, models, oil. You get the whole spectrum. Some of it is beautiful and some is downright terrible! But that’s only my opinion.

There were many art pieces highlighting climate change

What is art? That’s the question that keeps raising its ugly head. Well, I have learned that anything can be art, and if the artist says it is art, then it is. I’ve come to believe that over the years. I also think that anything in creative arts that provokes a response (whether good or bad) has done its job.

Cairn: Sea-worn concrete by Ever Grainger. Is it art? Well, I liked the quirkiness of it.

At the Summer Exhibition, works are chosen by various people. I’m always fascinated to see what Grayson Perry has chosen. His selections are in two rooms, the walls of which are painted bright yellow. I loved it, but my friend found it sickly!

Acciona Ombu, Madrid by Lord Foster of Thames Bank RA

There is something about model buildings that remind me of dolls houses and Diorama (a miniature three-dimensional scene in which models of figures are set against a background). Sometimes these come displayed in boxes, like a world in a box. I just love them. I always look forward to seeing what is on display at the Summer Exhibition each year.

There are 1465 exhibits. Some baffled us, a few we wondered why someone who was a member of the RA would draw/paint something a school child would do. What are the judges seeing in those? The exhibits I have chosen to photograph (and there are more than I have posted here) are ones that I either liked, found clever or ‘spoke’ to me. But even I couldn’t take photos of everything. I thought this year was better than the previous year. My friend disagreed! But disagreeing is fine. We all have our own opinions. We still enjoy our day out.

Espirit D’Art by Bob and Roberta Smith RA

The piece above sums up my feelings about art well, which is why I like it. Do I need any other reason?

Another general shot of works chosen by Grayson Perry

When I took the above photo, my friend (probably despairing of me) said ‘What are you taking now?’ I was drawn to Mass Extinction Includes You by Nick Fieldhouse because what he says is true. But also I wanted another general view.

The photo of the above art work doesn’t do it justice as I couldn’t get a clear shot with all the reflection off the glass. What I like about this is the different cultures, religions, races, all brothers and sisters together.

What is it about dolls that can look scary? Well, certainly dismembered ones. Remember Toy Story?

Beekeeper (Girl) II by Yinka Shonibare RA

Yinka Shonibare has had exhibits in most (if not all) the Summer Exhibitions I’ve been to. I like her work. The above is one of four exhibits by her this year.

Because You’re Worth It? II (Slaves of Fashion Series) by The Singh Twins

I couldn’t find the artist to this, but I like it! I couldn’t take the whole thing in one shot, so I did it in two. Quirky eh?

Dante’s Inferno – Canto 3 (just guessing by Leonardo Frigo. I love this.

Church of the Lateral Flow Saints by Matt Wickham. Brilliant!

The Summer Exhibition is on until 21st August. I’m sure every one of you would find something different that appeals. My choice would not be for everyone, but I hope it gives you a flavour. You can also view all (or most?) online here. I’ve just had a bit of shock when I saw online that something I thought had just been left there was actually a piece of art! See the exhibit here! Back to that question…what is art?

Guildford – a break in the Surrey countryside

I had come to Guildford for one reason only, and that was to view The Watts Gallery and Artist Village in Compton. Without transport it is not easy. There is an hourly bus service from the bus station in Guildford, which leaves ten minutes after the bus I was taking to Guildford arrives! I could have used the train, but I fancied a jaunt out on the bus. So, rather than trying to do the trip in a day, it became a three night break.

The Watts Gallery has been on my hit list for many years but due to the awkwardness of getting there, it had been put off. Not this time.

Guildford is not a cheap place to stay, and travelling alone I wanted a central hotel. With my option of dates dwindling, I booked The Angel Posting House & Livery on the High Street. The only coaching house remaining in Guildford and built in 1527 on the former site of the Whitefriars Monastery, I was in good company, as the likes of Charles Dickens, Jane Austen and Oliver Cromwell had stayed here. My suite (yes, suite!) was called the James Boswell Suite. Next door was William Pitt! You can read about the history of the hotel here. The hotel is quirky and the labyrinth of corridors to get to and from my room was a feat in itself. A map would have been handy. One had to look for pointers. Remember the plant, I was advised, as the young lady on reception led me up stairs, down steps, through fire doors and round corners. The first time I left the room, I missed the first fire door and ended up opening a cupboard on the landing! But my room was massive and the windows overlooked the alleyway where the horses and coaches would have once entered and exited. From the window I watched the most beautiful sunsets every night.

The hotel was room only as there is a Bill’s downstairs where I could have had breakfast (opened at 8am), but I never used it.

Main landing (Bill’s downstairs -exit only)

It has been a few years since I was last in Guildford. I remember when the kids were young I took them to the castle, and some years ago I attended the Flower Festival at the Cathedral (set just outside the town), but my visits have been few and far between. So, on arrival day, I set off on a walk to get my bearings.

One of the best views of Guildford from the castle (Cathedral in the distance)

Castle gardens. A nice place to sit and relax

High Street, Guildford looking towards the town bridge and river

The next morning I set off for the Watts Gallery. The bus didn’t arrive! I ended up sharing an Uber taxi with a young man who works in a restaurant in Compton village (just beyond the galleries). What a kind person, and what luck that he was there.

The Watts’ were part of the Arts & Craft Movement of which I am so very fond (think William Morris). Mary Watts was George Watts’ second wife. I was surprised to find that George was previously (and very briefly) married to the actress Ellen Terry. The Watts’ worked in London before moving out to Compton to set up galleries, a chapel and classes in pottery for the locals. What they did there was astonishing. The house, Limnerslease, was their home, but also where they worked. The ceiling panels in the hall and living room were designed and worked by Mary. The hall ceiling panels depict the various religions. Mary was also fond of repurposing items, and the wood either side of the living room doors are from a church. The grounds in which the house stands are quiet and beautiful.

Re-purposed wood from a church (living room)

A short walk along the main road you come to the Chapel and cemetery. On opening the chapel door the only word I can say is “WOW”. Every part is painted with motifs. It is stunning and none of my photos will ever do it justice. It reminds me of Byzantium churches. Local red clay is used even in the graveyard, with headstones and, of course, the cloisters where George F Watts was buried, and later Mary.

Back to the main buildings and to the Watts Galleries with paintings, sculptures and the De Morgan Collection.

De Morgan Collection (Evelyn -painter – William tiles/ceramics)

You can read about Evelyn de Morgan here.

The cafe on site is really nice – I had a lovely lunch. The shop is large with many items to woo you. Above the shop is a contemporary gallery selling new works by current artists, which is also worth a look. You need to allow around four hours to see everything without rushing. In the guide book there is a walk yu can take through the village and across the fields back to the galleries, but I didn’t do that, and considering how long I waited for the damn bus (which didn’t arrive) I might as well have! The lady in the shop called me a taxi. Although it is only a ten minute journey, it is a hassle getting there. That’s my only negative of the day. Everything else was pretty mind blowing.

On my final day, I decided I would go walking, and I found a nice route along the River Wey from Guildford to Godalming (approx 4 miles). This was a pretty walk with a number of locks and narrowboats passing through.

I had an early lunch in Godalming and caught the bus back to Guildford where I had a look around Guildford Museum before my second walk of the day. I staggered up Pewley Hill to Pewley Down. Staggered is about it! I can walk miles, but steep hills kill me. Someone had helpfully installed a bench after the worst part of the hill. Gratefully, I sat down to recover before the last haul up to the down. It was worth it though, for the view. Pewley Down is a lovely spot to sit and just enjoy the countryside, with bird song, the neigh of a horse, the buzz of bees and butterflies flitting from flower to flower.

I hope you have enjoyed this wander into Surrey with me. It was a great trip for me.

Cornelia Parker at Tate Britain

I didn’t know a great deal about Cornelia Parker‘s work other than the piece featured above, and Thirty Pieces of Silver, but I thought this might be my sort of thing. It very much was. It held for me the same wow factor as the exhibition by Antony Gormley I’d seen a few years ago.

What did I like about these works? Well, ultimately I love the way the artist thinks and how she re-purposes objects. I think you need to read the information to each piece to appreciate what she is doing. I certainly did. I also like the way the suspended art pieces create shadows on the walls.

The Kiss is in the main entrance hall (where you buy tickets). She rather likes string! I like the way the string wraps around the couple, binding them further together.

Thirty pieces of Silver (a quote borrowed from the BIble) is a work that took the artist around car-boot sales, markets and auctions collecting silver plate. Even friends and family donated items. All of them were steamrollered over before being assembled into thirty separate piles and suspended a few inches above the ground. They hover, twirling slightly as air moves around them.

Cornelia takes items, breaks them, shoots them, uses remains and sets them under glass, like the sawn-off shotgun and residue in the photo below.

The Oliver Twist doll in the above photo was cut in half by the guillotine used to behead Marie Antionette (guillotine is in the Chambers of Horrors). Cornelia was also able to visit Customs & Excise UK and persuaded them to give her certain objects for her to repurpose, including the incinerated remains of some cocaine in the next photo!

I took many photos of Cold Dark Matter. It is possibly my favourite of the whole exhibition. This once garden shed was blown up using Semtex by the Army School of Ammunition. The artist pressed the plunger! The soldiers then helped her collect the pieces from the field. In one of the Art History classes I attended, we touched on pyrotechnic art, and I became rather fascinated with it. Although the artists we looked at used their explosions to destroy their art as part of the art, I much prefer Cornelia Parker’s idea of using the pieces afterwards. The shadow effect created in these displays fascinated me (I love photographing shadows).

Forgive me another view of Cold Dark Matter

As soon as I saw these framed items, I thought Turin Shroud. I read everything I could find about the Turin Shroud when I was younger. Indeed, I was right about this. The artist used paper and a hot poker (I think it was) to create the burn marks that are like the Turin Shroud, which was rescued from a fire, leaving similar marks on folds of the cloth.

The artist worked in Bunhill Fields in London and took casts from the path where William Blake is buried for the above artwork.

Poison and Antidote (read the caption below)

This is what remains when a vinyl record is made from making the grooves. As someone who has kept all my lovely vinyl records I love this!

Perpetual Canon – another steamroller exhibit!

In Island, the glass is painted with white brushstrokes of cliff chalk. The artist says ‘(The structure)… becomes enclosed, inward looking, a vulnerable domain, a little England with a cliff-face veil.’ The greenhouse sits on worn encaustic tiles from the Houses of Parliament.

I should say that in War Room every empty mould represents a life lost, but not everyone. It really makes you think.

The artist printed off the Wikipedia page and then asked people to embroider the work! Wow!

Magna Carta (can’t get it all in on well on one photo shot)

As well as the installations and framed items, there are two video rooms. One of the films, War Machine shows Remembrance Day poppies being machine made. I wondered if this was in the Poppy Factory in Richmond, which I went to many years ago with a group from church, but it was a different factory. However, we did see poppies being made this way, as well as ex-veterans making them by hand. We also had the opportunity of making one of our own (which I still have), and to write on a wooden cross the name of a someone serving in the war who didn’t come back. I was able to do that for my uncle and his cross was later set out with others in Parliament Square.

The exhibition is on until 16th October. I hope I have inspired you to see it for yourself.

Fulham Palace House & Gardens

The back of Fulham Palace from the garden

Getting around Britain is becoming rather difficult right now as last week there was a national rail strike (three days and disruptions on other days). One of those days coincided with a London tube strike. I could see my trips being curtailed. However, I had enough of not being able to go anywhere during lockdown, and I was not to be beaten. I began looking at options that I could get to by bus.

Although I have been to Fulham Palace before, and the gardens a few times, I had not been inside the house for a good number of years. The day was hot and sunny, and the bus got caught up in a traffic jam just outside Putney, though I never did find out what the problem was. Still, I got there. I exited the bus at Putney Pier and walked over the bridge. From the bridge there is a nice view of All Saints Church, Fulham which stands next to the Palace. When I reached the church I found the door open. I don’t believe I’ve ever been inside before, so I went to take a look.

On to the main event! Fulham Palace was acquired in AD 704 as a residence for the Bishops of London. The last Bishop to live there was Robert Stopford who retired in 1973. The building has 70 rooms and was lived in by the Bishop, his family and servants. The Bishop would run the Diocese of London from there, entertain dignitaries and receive candidates for ordination. In 1975 the Palace and garden was leased by the Church Commissioners to Hammersmith & Fulham Council for 100 years. Since 2011 it has been run by a charitable trust(Fulham Palace Trust) who run the site and carry out restoration.

On entering the palace you cross over the former moat. To left is the porter’s lodge (back to its original pink!) and to the right is the coachhouse. At one time the River Thames had inlets right up to the garden walls.

The moat with the coachhouse nearest and the porter’s lodge behind

The palace and gardens are free to enter. There is a small shop, the all important toilets and a cafe overlooking the gardens. The museum part of the house has been updated since my first visit and has lots of interesting facts and displays about the history, archaeological finds on the site and details about the former Bishops. There is a short video at the beginning of the tour, and another at the end.

Approaching the palace. Through the arch is the courtyard

Not all the rooms are open to the public. Some are obviously offices. The rooms available to view are all on the ground floor. You need a plan as there are a few coridoors and it took me a while to find the chapel (even with a plan!).

Bishop Compton was particularly interested in plant collecting and brought in many specimens to the palace gardens (Museum)

Collect your own – I need no persuading!

The Great Hall – the oldest room in the building. Queen Elizabeth dined here in 1588 and 1600.

The rooms are mainly empty. The above photo shows the only things in this room. The photos in the guide show what these rooms would have looked like, but sadly they do look rather stark now.

And so into the gardens. The photo below is my favourite. Walking through a gate you enter the walled garden and the first thing you see are these greenhouses, some of which are accessible.

The market garden stall. Buy plants and veg from the gardens

The Bisghop’s Seat! Children love this (as do childlike adults!)

The courtyard. The chapel is to the right (out of the picture)

The cafe overlooks the gardens and has long windows so you can admire the view. The tables outside were busy today, but as all the tables with shade had already been taken, I decided to park myself inside, though I did have to suffer jazz music! The food is very good though.

I had just finished lunch and was on my way to view the chapel when the fire alarm went off. Gosh it was loud! People headed out into the courtyard. As we walked across I looked up and saw smoke coming out of one open window and what smelled like burnt toast. The brigade arrived and we waited for the all clear. It came very soon (yes, I think it was a toaster!)

I then went in search of the chapel. I realised I had seen this before (I’d convinced myself we’d not found it before). It has stunning painted walls, a beautiful mosaic and stained glass windows.

It’s a shame there aren’t more rooms open as the upstairs looks interesting (the guide book has some photos), but the house and gardens are lovely. There are plenty of benches in the gardens to sit and just enjoy the peace.

I’m sure I shall return again soon, to sit in the gardens if nothing else.