Heather Walker

Wimbledon Bookfest and a trip down the River Thames

Every year on Wimbledon Common the tents go up and Bookfest is here. It used to be just once a year, in the autumn, but now there is one in June too. I’ve been to quite a few events over the years, and bought a number of books as well. Authors I have seen include Tracy Chevalier (Girl with a Pearl Earing), John Lanchester (The Wall and Capital) Jessie Burton (The Miniturist), Chrisy Lefteri (The Beekeeper of Aleppo) and Karen Armstrong (Through a Narrow Gate and History of God).

This year I had signed up for three events. My first was all about William Morris and his wife Jane. Now there’s a surprise! William Morris has connections with the Borough of Merton, so there is even a tent on the common in his name, always my favourite tent! The author of this book How We Might Live: At Home with Jane and WIlliam Morris, tells the story more from Jane’s perspective. In life, Jane is known more for her affair with Rossetti than anything else. But she was a beautiful embroiderer, artistic model and a great hostess. I shall look forward to reading her account. After William, died I want to know what happened to Jane.

Suzanne Fagence Cooper – author of How We Might Live

The second event was writer/journalist Tim Marshall. He writes political and world affairs and I have read his Divided in the past. He spoke about two of his other books, about how the world is changing, the geography of countries and the situation between Ukraine and Russia. I couldn’t decide which of his books to buy, so I didn’t buy either. This just means they are on my mental list of books to buy in the future! He is an engaging speaker and writer, and explains things at a level I can understand. I’m not a big reader of world affairs at all, but his books have helped me understand the world.

The last event I booked was the stand out one as far as I was concerned. This was held in my favourite tent (William Morris) and consisted of a workshop followed by a walk on Wimbledon Common hunting wildflowers. Botanist Leif Bersweden explained how he came to write his book Where The Wild Flowers Grow and has spent a lot of time on the common (his parents live here). Leif took us onto the common on a very hot day and promised to keep us in the shade as much possible. Two stewards accompanied us carrying bottled water, should we need them.

Leif made the walk so interesting and had little stories about each flower he found for us. I particularly loved the Pineapple plant which, if you squeeze the flower heads, smell of pineapple. They really do! I began to realise how more enjoyable it is to identify flowers and plants during a walk. How much more you get out of a walk just knowing these things. I made notes of all the flowers Leif found (I wouldn’t have remembered otherwise) so I could identify them when I loaded up my photos. I feel this is something I need to look into more and could do with a good book on identification.

Roseday Willowhurt also known as Firebomb as it grew on bomb sites in the war

When we arrived back we each received a copy of Leif’s book (included in the price of the ticket), which he signed individually for us. The event was uplifting and not ‘over my head’ as I wondered if it might be. Leif made everything accessible and was willing to answer questions we had.

Walking across the common – Leif is in the front wearing a black tee shirt

On the Thames

The day after was an even hotter one. I met a friend in London and bought lunch to eat in the gardens near Embankment tube station. Afterwards, we set off to Westminster Pier where we boarded a Thames Cruise to Greenwich. Both of us have Freedom Passes which gave us a great discount on the return fare. We sat on the top deck in the sun and enjoyed seeing London from the river. We had a commentary, though our guy is not an official Tour Guide. However, he was most amusing. We spent a little time at Greenwich, mostly drinking (cold for my friend and tea for me!), sitting the shade near the Maritime Museum. We then caught the boat back into London, and we had the same guide, which was fun.

Viking Cruise ship coming into Greenwich to dock. This is as far as they can go. The water is deepest here, about 70 feet.

Outside the Information Centre, Greenwich

Mock-up of a seaman’s hospital room (Info Centre)

Thames Path Walk: Henley to Reading

This was a day walk. Henley is around one hour on the train from Paddington. We arrived around 11.30am. The day was beautiful and warm. Close to Henley, an unsafe bridge meant a diversion through a local farmer’s property. It turned out to be a pleasant diversion, and we were soon back on Thames Path. A short walk and we were in Shiplake, where we stopped to have our packed lunch. We considered going to The Baskerville pub for a cup of tea before setting off again, and this was our big mistake. We didn’t! A regret that would live with us until Reading!

The next stretch of the walk took us alongside the railway track and over the line at Shiplake Station (a station on the Twyford to Henley line), and at this point, we temporarily left the Thames. Coming back to it, we were disappointed we couldn’t see St Peter & St Paul Church through the trees. It hides up beyond Shiplake College Rowing Club. It would have meant a walk uphill, and knowing we still had a fair way to walk, we reluctantly didn’t venture up there. However, I can tell you that the poet Tennyson married here and paid the vicar with a poem instead of the fee! Also the author George Orwell grew up in Shiplake.

Damselfly – always wildlife to look out for

This was perhaps the more interesting part of the walk and seemed well spread out.

The next section of the walk seemed to be a slog. There were no real landmarks to tell us how far we still had to walk, or locate on the map. My map of the route was over several pages of the book, but we seemed to be stuck on one page for an eternity. At this point, we were in desperate need of a cup of tea! We were holding on for Sonning where our books said there was a riverside tea shop.

Walking into Sonning. Is that a postbox on the bridge?!

We arrived at Sonning Lock where there should have been a tea shop. There wasn’t! The Lockkeepers said it had been closed for two years. My friend asked if they would make us a cuppa, but no. We asked how much further it was to Reading and were told it was about three miles. So we sat on a bench to eat our last snacks and drink our water. We both needed plasters for our feet, and then we set off again dreaming of cups of tea lined up on a bar!

The final slog along the Thames seemed daunting. However, it wasn’t long before signs of Reading emerged, like a school rowing club with Reading in its name! This urged us on.

Reading School Rowing Club out on the water

We pressed on as we saw tall building through the trees. We could also taste the tea!

Despite being tea deprived, I stopped to take this!

By the time we reached Caversham Lock, I knew we were close to Reading. We came to a part in the path I remembered from a previous trip to Reading. For a moment, we came off the path and headed for the big Tesco store because they would have a cafe. Our spirits plummeted again when we found the cafe was closed due to lack of staff. Dispirited, we used the customer loos and headed back to the path.

Finally, we saw Reading Bridge. We were there. And the station was just over the road. We finally got our cuppa. Pure nectar!

After we recovered, we headed for the train. Our plan had been to use the new Elizabeth Line back into London, and this we did. As I have Freedom Pass, I was able to ride this for free! Nice to have some advantages to getting older! It took around an hour. The fast train probably takes half that time, but this was our dream to ride the Elizabeth Line. I’ve followed every development of Crossrail, now the Elizabeth Line, and this was a good opportunity to travel a whole length of it. The train was less crowded than the fast train (which we saw flying past!). It was a nice relaxing ride back to London.

Interior of train – not that busy from Reading

Door to door we had walked just under thirteen and half miles, the longest Thames Path walk we’d done. Each section of the path is different. There are boring bits and beautiful parts. We were just glad to reach the end this time. We have our next walk planned, but due to National Rail going on strike, we have already had to change the date. Whether it happens remains to be seen. I have walked this next section before when staying in Reading. It seemed a long walk last time, but it says in our books the walk is seven miles. It should be a doddle after what we’d just walked!

Paddington Station and Elizabeth Line train

Queen’s Platinum Jubilee Celebrations

The world feels a little flat after all the celebrations over the last four days. I didn’t attend any of the London celebrations myself, but I did go into London on Wednesday last week, the day before everything kicked off. I went to see the decorations in Oxford Street, Regent Street, and around Covent Garden., before walking on to the Tower of London and London Bridge. On Saturday there were celebrations in the town square where I live with stalls and live events, which I went to. We decorated our house, and it was my birthday on Sunday! So, I was celebrating with the best.

Here are some of my personal reflections of this time.

Emery Walker’s House, 7 Hammersmith Terrace

You are probably saying, ‘Who is Emery Walker?’ Well, he was a printer, engraver, and photographer (1851-1933). He was also a close friend of William Morris, who lived a short walk away at Kelmscott House. Yet the two met accidentally on a train coming home from Bethnal Green after a political meeting. They hit it off and later set up the Hammersmith Socialist League, a branch of the Socialist Democratic Federation (forerunner of the Labour Party) in 1883. The men also discovered they both had an interest in printing.

Emery Walker’s start in life was very different. At 13, he became the main breadwinner of the family as his father went blind. He stuck out a job as an apprentice to a linen draper for many years. He hated it. It wasn’t until he changed jobs and worked for Alfred Dawson’s Typographic Etching Company that he found his true vocation. In 1885, he went into partnership with a colleague, Walter Boutall as Walker & Boutall Automatic & Process Engravers (later Emery Walker Ltd) and specialised in fine printing, engraving and photography.

It was to Emery Walker that William Morris turned when he wanted to produce books. Morris was a master at many things in life, but typeface wasn’t one of them. When Morris formed the Kelmscott Press, he asked Walker to join him. Walker declined, but his help was invaluable.

Originally Emery Walker lived at 3 Hammersmith Terrace. He had longed to live in this terrace, but the first house was a little too small. He lived there with his wife Mary Grace and his daughter Dorothy (1878-1963). This house, and number 7 where he moved in 1879, were rented to Walker, though later he bought number 7. Mary Grace Walker suffered illness throughout her life and spent a greater part of her life living at a property she owned in Surrey.

The house at 7 Hammersmith Terrace is unique in that when the last person living at the house (Dorothy’s companion Elizabeth de Hass died (1918-1999)), it passed to a trust she had set up for the property herself. Everything you see in the house is original. The only alterations carried out by the trust were to remove the kitchen (which was the telephone room and is now the reception for guided tours). The kitchen was moved from the basement when Dorothy was living there. As a town house, it has many floors, and at seventy-years old she wanted to make life easier for herself. She also installed a bathroom. The basement was converted into a flat, which was rented out. This is still the case.

There is no photography allowed inside the house (you can take photos in the garden), but the website is excellent and you can explore everything through photographs of both the rooms and objects of note inside. Please do explore the website here. There is much more information too about the house, people and their relationships. There is also a virtual tour.

For me, this was an amazing tour. Being a huge William Morris fan (have I mentioned that before?!), it was wonderful to see original wallpaper on the walls, and a line of photographs of William Morris. The most touching thing was a drawer in Walker’s bureau, which held some items of Morris’, including several pairs of glasses, a dish (possibly for ink) and a lock of William Morris’ hair which was taken on the day he died.

Furniture in the house is a mix of arts and craft and older things, but a greater part belonged to Philip Webb, another close friend, and architect of Kelmscott Manor (Morris’ house in Gloucestershire). The rooms are stunning, and I could happily move in tomorrow!

There is an exhibition space in the room adjoining the drawing room. Currently, this is about the Doves Press which Walker set up with Thomas Cobden-Sanderson originally from number 1 Hammersmith Terrace, and named after The Dove public house set between Walker and Morris’ house (the pub is still there and overlooks the River Thames). The Doves type is modern in appearance and is based on a 15th century Venetian model. You can read all about it here. It is a fascinating story. Basically, the two men owned the type together, but Cobden-Sanderson worried that when he died Walker would use it to produce books not of the same high literature, Cobden-Sanderson, over a period of a few months, threw the type over Hammersmith Bridge into the Thames. Parts of it have recently been recovered from the river, and the exhibition holds a piece of it to view. The exhibition is about to close, but you can still view pieces of Doves Press type on the website, and there is a video too.

The dining room and the drawing room have views over the River Thames, as does the bedroom which was Dorothy’s, and later Elizabeth de Hass. Emery Walker’s bedroom was in the attic, which is now offices.

The garden is beautiful, and immediately you walk out from the conservatory, the fragrance hits you. Originally, this would have been the front of the house, as there was a small walkway along the back of these houses. Later, the walkways were incorporated into the gardens and the entrances switched from back to the front of the houses.

The garden. On the left hand side is number 8, where May Morris lived.

At number 8 Hammersmith Terrace, May Morris (William Morris’ daughter) lived, and worked with her embroideries. It was not a very happy house, due to the gradual breakdown on May’s marriage to Henry Halliday Sparling (who William Morris referred to as ‘the drip’! He never minced his words).

I came away from this house utterly overwhelmed by it. It has a great atmosphere and the furnishings and decorations are beautiful.

View of the Thames from the garden, looking towards Hammersmith.

The garden looking towards the basement, once the kitchen.

After leaving the house, I set out to find Thomas Cobden-Sanderson’s house. I walked past it twice before I recognised it because it is clad in scaffolding and overgrown foliage. But there is Blue Plaque. I wonder what is going to happen to the house. It would be good if it was opened to the public, but I guess it depends on what is left of it inside.

Also in the terrace is the house of Edward Johnston who designed the type for London Underground. This seems to be a great area for artists and crafters. On my way back I saw a house once lived in by Eric Ravilious, and into Chiswick there is Hogarth’s House, which I have visited in the past.

Looking towards Hammersmith Bridge where Doves type was thrown into the river by Cobden-Sanderson.

Aga Khan Building, King’s Cross

The Aga Khan building was designed by Pritzker prize winning architect Fumihiko Maki and opened on 26th June 2018 by His Highness the Aga Khan and His Highness Prince of Wales. The building is set in the education quarter, and is a centre of education, knowledge, cultural exchange with an insight into Muslim civilisations. Clad in light limestone, the building is inspired by Portland Stone and the layout reflects traditional courtyards of Morocco and Egypt.

I have wanted to explore this building for a long time. A few years ago, when on a walk in the King’s Cross area with a group, we went into the reception area of the building. The sculpture which rises through all nine floors impressed me. When I arrived home, I tried to book a tour on their website. However, tickets go quickly and they were all sold out. I then put it to the back of my mind. Recently, I heard the Aga Khan building was re-opening for tours after the pandemic, so straightaway I went online and this time I was lucky and secured tickets for myself and a friend.

Tours run on Thursday afternoons (5pm) and Saturday mornings. The tour takes about an hour. Last Thursday, eleven of us set off with our volunteer to explore the library (over several floors), The Crown Room, the terraces and gardens.

We began at the entrance where a bronze art work stands. The bronze depicts the names of God and Allah.

Bronze with the names of God and Allah. Note the eight-pointed star pattern on the windows. This runs throughout the building.

Looking up: Rasheed Araeen’s artwork; ‘Rhapsody in Four Colours’ which reinterprets classical Islamic geometric forms into a three-dimensional sculpture that rises nine-storeys high.

The building has nine floors and a basement. Lifts stop at all floors except the most precious floor of the library where rare books live, some behind locked temperature controlled cases. These have to be specifically asked for. The library feels calm and has a few individual rooms for silent study. We noted that as well as books there were DVD’s.

The first terrace we visited was The Terrace of Learning, which is accessible through the library, giving students a chance to relax during a break from studies. This terrace is planted with rosemary, myrtle and other greenery. Note the tiled floor. There is no grouting between them to allowed the water to seep through. The water is then recycled. The Aga Khan building, when built, was the most eco-friendly building in London. It is also a working building, which is why tours are only offered twice a week.

The views across London from all the terraces and gardens are stunning. You can see Coal Drop’s Yard, Gasholders and King’s Cross in one direction, and Canary Wharf and St Paul’s Cathedral in the other direction.

View from the Terrace of Learning – note old GPO Tower

Next we entered the Crown Room where meetings are held. The windows here, like in the library, are anti-glare, keeping the areas bright yet not a strain on the eyes. The walls of this room are of sycamore. I can tell you it has a lovely smooth feel to the touch, and I liked the patterning.

The terrace off The Crown Room has beautiful patterning on the rail – the eight-pointed star again – reflecting the carpet in The Crown Room. This is one of my favourite terraces.

A better view too. The gasholders have been turned into apartments and it has a roof garden!

From the ninth floor, if you have a head for heights, you can follow the artwork all the way down to first floor.

The next garden we visited was The Garden of Light. Around the walls is Arabic inscription, some of which is scripture. It has a small fountain, and the garden is lit at night.

The Garden of Life is beautiful. Water runs from a small waterfall along a channel, and the planting is colourful.

Back on the first floor, we entered The Garden of Tranquility, which overlooks Jellico Gardens.

Our tour was at an end. What an interesting place. I couldn’t resist one more photo. This time I looked up through the floors to the glass roof. The roof here and in other parts of the building reminds me of the roof in the gardens at the Crossrail building at Canary Wharf.

Going through the floors (lifts to the right)

King’s Cross has been rejuvenated over the years. Building work is still marching on with more apartments and the new Google building.

I’d urge you to look at the Aga Khan Building website for more information on the structure, terraces and gardens. The tours are free, but must be booked in advance. At the time of writing, there are still spaces available until the end of June.

Covent Garden, Museum of Freemasonry, Lincoln’s Inn & Fleet Street

It has been many years since I last explored Covent Garden, and it turned out that the area had much more to offer than I first realised. It’s great when you can find new and exciting things in your own home city.

As always (well, mostly) my walk began by the River Thames. I’d left it last in Henley, and here I was back in London, the part of the river I know most. Let me take you now on a journey through markets, an actors’ church, the world of Freemasonry and the land of law.

Crossing over Waterloo Bridge, I turned onto The Strand and then Aldwych, coming off at Drury Lane and working my way into Covent Garden from that direction.

A famous hotel on my way to Covent Garden

Toyed with the idea of visiting The London Transport Museum, but I’d not booked and decided I wanted to explore other things today.

Pollocks Theatre Toy Shop, Covent Garden

I came across to Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, known as the actors church. The church is hidden away on the other side of the outside courtyard.

I set off towards Neal Street, a very pretty road. I particularly wanted to find Neal’s Yard, which I remember from many years back. I don’t think I had been to Neal’s Yard since I was in my 20’s!

This area is part of Seven Dials and you can read about its history here, along with the theatres and markets, shops and even a map.

Neal’s Yard. Can there be a more pretty place?

Back on to Neal Street, I found The Astrology Shop, which was worth a look at.

Off on my walk again, I’d seen a tall building in the distance, and I wanted to check it out. It looked church-like. On the noticeboard it said cafe, and where there is a cafe there are toilets (usually). This looked promising. I sought out the entrance and was surprised to find myself outside The Museum of Freemasonry. The building is open to all, and is free. So, I thought, why not? I might learn something! It was actually an astounding building with an informative museum, library, huge shop (all upstairs), and on the ground floor is the cafe, and yes, there are toilets!

The outside of Freemason’s Hall on Great Queen Street

I think I should have written a blog post just about the Freemason’s Museum, for it is a splendid place, and really worth a look. I knew very little about Freemasons other than the jokes about dodgy handshakes and rolled-up trouser legs! It seems they can take the mickey out of themselves (always a good sign!). Staff were nice and helpful, though I did find myself doing ‘spot the freemason’! Down in the cafe (very reasonably priced menu and drinks and worth going in just for the cafe – subsidised?) there were some very well dressed people (was I underdressed?).

Well-stocked shop. Yes, I did buy a book (not this one) with a general overview of history and basic facts about the Freemasons

Leaving Freemason’s Hall behind, I set off for Lincoln’s Inn, a place I used to visit from time to time when I was a teenager. One of my jobs was delivering Briefs to Counsel (or Advice to Counsel). This involved hand delivering (I wonder if that still happens?) to Barrister’s Chambers. I still remember the buildings – the clerks in dark offices, the pigeonholes, the rooms stuffed with documents bound in pink ribbon. Much has changed since those days. I expect everything goes by email now. Back in those times, documents used to be typed on parchment paper (Wills and Leases). It took two people to check for mistakes (one reading the other with the draft), and the documents were sewn up. For me (who hated sewing, and still do), sewing documents was actually something I quite liked. Documents were sewn in green tape (and once or twice even sealed with wax!). Documents going to Counsel where bound together with pink tape. The names of the squares now came back to me – Stone Buildings, New Square. However, there was another surprise – Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, which luckily was open. What a magnificence place!

For a little about the history and buildings do read this.

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel – I was literary gobsmacked at this place

Barristers’ Chambers with a list of their names (several work in the same building)

They go in for tall and narrow here! Fleet Street

From Fleet Street I entered the Strand and eventually came back on to the River Thames on the north bank at Victoria Embankment. This had been a fantastic walk. A bit of a walk down memory lane for me, and with surprising finds. Highlights for me were the Freemason’s Hall, Lincoln’s Inn Chapel and the wonder of those buildings in Lincoln’s Inn. How regal! I hope you have enjoyed the journey too.

Thames Path Walk – Maidenhead to Henley-on-Thames

This walk was a dummy run for my friend and I to see if we could (a) walk two sections of the Thames Path on consecutive days, and (b) walk carrying all we needed for the trip. We arrived from London late Tuesday afternoon and stayed overnight in a hotel. After breakfast we set off to walk the first leg to Marlow. The distance was around eight miles, though we ended up doing more than that as we had a stop at Cookham to enjoy the village.

The morning began overcast, and occasionally we encountered a few spots of rain. There were some dramatic skies, but we were lucky. While walking, we had no rain. The path was easy and the views beautiful.

The first notable place is Boulter’s Lock. There are some huge houses along this stretch of the Thames Path. Some, we assumed, were hotels or apartments. One was up for sale or rent. Tempting, but I could never afford it!

Behind the trees on the opposite bank is Cliveden House, the former home of the Astor family. Unfortunately, we were unable to see the house from our side, but the grounds were extensive.

A lovely tree lined section of the river

Shortly afterwards, we came to Cookham where we stopped to enjoy the Stanley Spencer Gallery. I had been before, but not my friend. The gallery is small, but the paintings are stunning. Spencer lived in Cookham for most of his life and all his paintings (apart from some he painted during the war) are set in Cookham. Though not religious, he painted a number of religious scenes. His house is on the main street (blue plaque) and there is a war memorial with his brother’s name on it. Spencer was one of nine children.

An unfinished painting – The Stanley Spencer Gallery

Holy Trinity Church is nearby and inside there is a replica of The Last Supper by Stanley Spencer. Outside in the graveyard is the headstone where the artist was buried. Somehow, I missed this the last time I was here.

Leaving Cookham behind (after a cuppa in a local cafe) we headed towards Bourne End. This meant crossing over the river where shortly be came to Bourne End Marina.

Eventually, we came into Marlow, our second overnight stop. We had carried all we needed in our rucksacks and had made it, and without getting wet!

After we’d settled into our rooms and had that all important cup of tea and a rest, we went for a stroll before dinner. The sky looked threatening by then, and while we nipped into WHSmith the heavens opened. We stood at the door waiting for the shower to pass, which it did. I unfurled my brolly, but when we came outside, the rain stopped. So we carried on with our exploring before enjoying a tasty, and well-deserved meal.

Marlow is all set for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations

Our hotel was part of the George & Dragon

Before leaving the next morning we took a look at St Luke’s church, and then walked over Marlow Bridge just because it is so impressive!

Another view from the bank where we set off for Henley

This next section was a particularly beautiful stretch, and we first came across Bisham Church.

There are lots of tributaries to the River Thames here, which means lots of little footbridges

This was a day of bridges (three to cross in all), animals (cattle, butterflies and Red Kites). It was an extraordinary day of contrasts, and the sun even came out!

Goslings enjoying the sunshine – Hurley Riverside Park

Eventually we had to come off the river and walk through a deer park and Culham Court. We were by then dreaming of a sit down and cuppa!

The grounds are extensive to Culham Court and the deer park, but this is private land, so one has to stick to paths. There is a Chapel built on the hill. You can see and read about that here.

This is perhaps my favourite view of this walk.

We were now nearing Aston and the prospect of that well-earned cuppa was upper mind in our thoughts, so it was with great relief to cross the field (above) and come across The Flowerpot Pub.

Never have I seen so many stuffed fish behind glass!

We sat in the pub garden and were amazed by Red Kites riding the thermals and darting down. They came close by, and I counted six together at one time. I have never seen them close up before and fell in love with them. Their colouring is beautiful.

Eventually, we dragged ourselves away. We had the last stretch of the Thames to walk. Refreshed, we set off.

Next door to the pub we found a whole selection of birds – chickens, doves, even a couple of peacocks!

We had arrived! We had a celebration drink at the Leander Rowing Club. My friend cheeky asked if we would be allowed in. Apparently, non-members could drink on the terrace, so in we went! We found a table right by the river and enjoyed the view and the sunshine. We didn’t want to go home. Over twenty twenty miles in two days we had walked, and now it felt like it! When we eventually roused ourselves, it was on stiff legs and I had a blister on the ball of my left foot. But we were happy, and proud of ourselves for this achievement. We are already planning our next walk!

Chartwell: Home of Sir Winston Churchill

Now, I must admit, I have never been a big fan of Churchill. I’ve never forgiven him for ruining a whole day due to his state funeral. I was coming up to ten years old, and all I remember of that day is sombre music on the radio, and there was nothing, I mean nothing else to do. So depressing! The world stopped, and I thought, who is this man that can do this?

Okay, I’ve got that out of my system, but as a nearly ten year old, I didn’t really understand (or want to know) who this man was, but that day haunted me, and I’ve obviously never got over it! Second thing – I only associated Churchill with war, which seemed to obsess my parents’ generation. I realise now, of course, how much it affected them. There was still rationing when my brother was born. When the air-raid siren on top of the local police station was tested (which I remember as a child), how my mum hated it. Thirdly, I have been to Chartwell before with my mum and dad, many years ago, but I barely remember it, and I wonder if that too has been blotted out of my mind due to my prejudice against him! I remember standing in the garden, and that’s all. So, why, you might ask, did I recently visit? Well, a friend was keen, and I never refuse a day out!

There is actually a well – the Chart Well!

Has my opinion changed? I have become more sympathetic, and I love the fact that he was such a family man. I’m never going to be his biggest fan, but I can live with it! Maybe I have laid the ghost to rest.

The front of the house isn’t as impressive as the side or back.

Chartwell had been owned by the Churchill family since 1922. It was only in 1964, a year before he died, that he moved to his flat in London, due to ill health. You can read more about Churchill here. Of course, there is more to Churchill than just war. He was Prime Minister. I learned that he switched political parties, he suffered from depression and the only thing to help with that was painting. And he was a family man. In the gardens is a cute brick built playhouse he had built for his children.

The brick built playhouse in the gardens

Planting is still not complete. During lockdown, The National Trust lost money and could not afford plants, so there are still bare beds in some places.

The house has beautiful rooms, and the views are spectacular. Who ever said Kent is flat? There are some very hilly parts to Kent. I expected very masculine rooms where Churchill worked and plotted the way war was going, but I was surprised by how homely it all felt. It wasn’t all leather and wood! I also marvelled at how industrious Churchill was – how many books he wrote and how many pictures he painted. How did he have time?

There is a museum with a lot about Churchill’s life, especially his the military life and all the organisations he was a member of. There is a whole case of uniforms and, of course, his cigars.

Outside the gardens is Churchill’s studio. At first he had only a small studio, part of the workmen’s cottages. He put windows on the roof to add more light. Now this is the exhibition space for his many paintings. Churchill did not start to paint until he was 41. Encouraged by his sister-in-law, it became a lifelong hobby, and he took his box of paints and canvasses with him when abroad. Some of the paintings are unfinished, like professional artist’s sketches, and sometimes he went back and started again. Here you can compare the unfinished with the finished. They are remarkable paintings. Churchill never painted for profit or to display. This was something he did for himself. Around the garden and grounds there are seats placed where Churchill would sit to paint. And what views there are to paint at Chartwell.

The studio – everything here is Churchill’s

The National Trust acquired Chartwell eighteen years after Churchill’s death. These days there is a super cafe, National Trust Shop, secondhand bookshop and the all important toilets. There are lovely walks you can take into the woodlands. My friend and I took one of these paths and came across swathes of bluebells. Looking back at the house from there, you can see why Churchill loved this place so much.

A view of the house from across the lake

I loved the house and studio, and the surrounding gardens and countryside are beautiful. The house has a lovely feel about it, a good atmosphere, homely. This must have been a place to relax in away from London and all politics and war for Churchill. A place of family, and his beloved painting. We heard a talk in the studio about Churchill’s art, and he was friends with Sir William Nicholson (father of Ben Nicholson who worked with and married Barbara Hepworth). In fact, Sir William was Churchill’s mentor, but when Nicholson suggested using a more muted palette, Churchill decided to stick with what he liked. I admire him for that. You can see both artists’ pictures of the view of the swimming pool – I much prefer Churchill’s! It made me smile because Sir William’s son, Ben did the same with ‘primitive’ artist Alfred Wallis, but Wallis also went his own way!

Sevenoaks & Knole Park & House

Sevenoaks is around 23 miles from London, and takes thirty minutes by train (unless you catch the slow train which takes double the time as it stops more times). The service is frequent and runs from Charing Cross.

This is a pretty Kent town with a mix of independent and chain stores set around a High Street with little alleyways leading to squares with coffee shops, restaurants and outdoor seating area. Some of the buildings are historic, and I liked the feel of the place. It also boasts a rather fine independent bookshop, which of course I spent time in!

First things first, I found one of the alleyways to indulge in a drink and snack before exploring the rest of the town.

The Shambles reminds me of York, but this is much smaller. Just a courtyard with a cafe and outdoor seating.

One of the courtyards surrounded by cafes, restraurant and shops

Plenty of places to sit and watch the world go by

The Banstand is from the 1800’s – The Vine Cricket Club

Off the High Street there is a footpath leading to Knole Park and House. I was at the house back in October as part of a special interest trip visiting places associated with The Bloomsbury Group, but we didn’t have time to visit the park or the orangery. Now there was more time and it was quieter. The estate is owned by the Sackville-West’s, now overseen by the National Trust. The park is beautiful and there are many deer roaming.

I posted a lot of photos of Knole House back in October, so here I will concentrate on places I was unable to visit before (please look at previous post if you want to see house photos)

Sevenoaks is certainly a lovely town to spend time in. I hadn’t planned to go to the park and house, but I had more time than I realised, so when I saw the footpath, I thought why not? It was a long day, however, the walk back to the station was all downhill (it’s quite a drudge into town!). The more I explore Kent the more I fall in love with the county.

Merton Abbey Priory

Finding the remains of this priory isn’t easy. I knew it was supposed to be under the car park of Sainsbury’s SavaCentre in Merton, but I’d never seen any signs to it. Over the years, I vowed I’d go there and find it. The first time I attempted this, I had to ask a gardener in the front of the shopping centre where I might find it, and he directed me through the ground floor of the multi-storey car park and to the other side. ‘You go down under the road,’ he said. So, off I went, and yes I found it, but it wasn’t open. I could see it was a proper centre, which I don’t think it was in the beginning. That Sunday I returned.

The Museum of London was involved with the archeological dig, though there had been digs in the past. However, I was told that Sainsbury’s wanted to flatten the whole lot for their car park! The only part visible is remains of the Chapter House, but from the plan above, you can see that it was quite extensive.

Certainly, the building under the road is now well looked after and the information boards well put together explaining the history and life of the priory. The space in the middle doubles up as an exhibition space. When I was there, local artists were showing their paintings. I believe there are events put on as well. Not only is there information and ruins of the prior here but also the link with the Wandle River, William Morris, lost railways of the area and a display about Liberty’s of London, who had a textile workshop at Merton Abbey Mills just around the corner.

There is a wonderful website here with the history, videos and so much more. Merton Priory was famous in its time. Thomas Becket was student here, and Walter de Merton, was was probably educated here, became Administrator, and from where we get Merton College, Oxford!

Here you can see more of the space, including the exhibition space

I didn’t expect to see all this. Delighted!

I could get very carried away here as I took photo after photo. All my desires in one place were rather overwhelming! People sometimes ask, ‘Who is the one person you wish you could meet?’ For me, it would be William Morris. You might have guessed that as he crops up a lot in my blog posts!

All about Liberty’s at Merton Abbey Mills

River Wandle, Merton Abbey Mills, close to where William Morris had his workshops.

The little garden at Merton Abbey Mills looking very spring-like.

Coming out of the Chapter House, there is a path leading to Merton Abbey Mills. I’d been so close to the ruins for so long, but no decent signage had made it difficult to locate. I went mad and bought virtually every book there for sale! I adore the place and feel it should have far more exposure, so please spread the word. I shall go back again sometime. A physic garden is being planned just outside – the wheelbarrows are there already. That should be lovely. Entrance to the building is free, but there is a donation plate and a visitors’ book to write your comments in.

This area is very close to my heart. I have walked the Wandle River, I visit Merton Abbey Mills and Merton Hall Park quite a lot. There is always something new to discover, and finally finding Merton Abbey Priory is the icing on the cake.