Heather Walker

Canterbury – Part 2

Last time I left you as I was about to enter The Beany House of Art & Knowledge. This has multiple uses. It is the city’s Tourist Information Centre, the library, and has several art galleries and permanent displays. Because it was half term, some of the displays were aimed at children.

The Clangers – a popular children’s TV programme from the past that is having a revival

I mentioned that the creator of Rupert (Mary Tourtel 1974-1948) was born in Canterbury and many books were on display, as well as the sheet music of the Frog Song written by Paul McCartney.

These pink marble capitals (above) are thought to be the stones from Thomas Becket’s tomb, which was destroyed during King Henry VIII’s time. They were found sticking out of the River Stour. It can never be proved, but pink marble is rare, but has been found in Canterbury Cathedral, so it is quite likely!

The photo below shows what was once a lodging house. Note the date AD1573. Although it says Queen’s Chambers, she (Elizabeth I) did not stay there, but at St Augustine’s in 1573. The Chamber was part of the Crown Inn. These days it is occupied by Caffe Nero!

My next visit was to the Roman Museum, close to the Cathedral. It isn’t a huge museum, but I loved it. Anything Roman does it for me!

A horse and a Roman – what more could a girl want!

Look closely at this picture. No 6 on here is where the hotel is! The theatre.

Most Romans ate out, the equivalent of fast food!

After the Romans left, it was Anglo-Saxons who dominated. A bit of a come down in the housing sector, I think!

Under the floor in this building are the remains of heating systems, pavements and floors

After leaving the Roman Museum, I still had some to kill, as I’d noted that the Crypt in the Cathedral wasn’t due to open until 2pm, so I found The Chocolate Cafe and order this special.

Drizzled with white chocolate and icing sugar. Devine!

Finally to Canterbury Cathedral. I came here many years ago, but remember none of it! The entrance, I’m sure has changed. It’s new, a proper entrance off the street, then you walk through the Cathedral shop, outside and across to enter the building. The Cathedral is presently clad in scaffolding, so not very photogenic. Inside, the first part is also clad in scaffolding, but thankfully things improve. The amount of stained glass windows astound me, and the Cathedral is so big. I’d forgotten that. There are so many chapels and stairs. It seems to go on forever.

Like many churches and Cathedrals, Canterbury has been built at different times. New parts were added over the years. A quick bit of history. In AD 597 missionaries from Rome arrived and converted the King of Kent to Christianity. The King’s wife Bertha was already a Christian, whereas the King was at that time, pagan. Augustine (leader of the mission) was consecrated as Archbishop. The Cathedral has been the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury ever since.

The outside of the Cathedral – trying to miss the scaffolding!

Compass Rose – symbol of the world-wide Anglican Community with Canterbury the mother church

View of the Cathedral from the cloisters

Particular favourites of mine due to the vivid colour

Down in the Crypt no photography was allowed, but I sneaked this one. ‘Transport’ by Antony Gormley hovers over the place of Thomas Becket’s original tomb

In my last post I gave a link to Thomas Becket. However, here is a different one which explains the story, should you wish to know who he was and why he was murdered.

Altar to Thomas Becket at the place where he was slain

Part 3 will be coming soon, and includes a visit to St Augustine’s Abbey, and to a churchyard.

The City of Canterbury, Kent (1)

I was due to leave for Canterbury on 18th February for four nights, and then Storm Eunice hovered and was due to hit on the day I was leaving home. Having found out that my train ticket would be valid to use either on the 17th or 19th due to the storm, I rang the hotel to see if I could book in a day early. Once that was confirmed, I had a frantic time packing. All my plans seemed rushed. I have never packed so fast and with little thought! I’d rung them in the afternoon and I arrived around 6.45 that evening. In the dark it was hard to spot the hotel, but I arrived, quickly unpacked, and went for a meal in the dining room.

No one knew quite what would happen the next day, except winds were due to reach between 60-80 miles and hour. We received the highest warning (Red). I made the right choice as I’d not have got here otherwise. Trains were suspended, planes had trouble landing (some aborted landing and flew back). Building collapsed, roofs were blown off including part of the O2 building in London.

On that first morning, I did little except pop out before the peak hit, just to get my bearings. I had a nice nap in the afternoon while the wind raged. By 4pm things had died down and I ventured out and took a walk around part of the city walls (not Roman, but built on top of them), took a stroll through Dane John Gardens and watched the sun set from the top of Dane John monument. Dane John is from the Norman ‘Donjon’. The Normans raised their first defences here. At the top it was really scary as the wind was strong still and I clung to the railings to take a few photos. I was glad to get down again.

Canterbury Castle is no longer open due to crumbling masonry

St George’s Clocktower. Remains of the church where Christopher Marlowe was baptised

Canterbury is the birth place of Christianity, the place where Thomas Becket was martyred, the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe and the story of The Canterbury Tales by Chaucer. It is also the birthplace of the creator of Rupert Bear, and has the oldest church in the English speaking world. Canterbury also has many Roman remains. Walking in the city is walking on Roman buildings and roads. Even the hotel where I am staying has part of the Roman Theatre beneath it. In the foyer is a glass floor where you can see part of it.

Because there is so much to see and do here that I am splitting this blog into parts.

Yesterday I had a four hour window (with sunshine!) to get out and take photos before heavy rain set in. I wanted to see the River Stour and ended up walking a fair distance of it. Westgate Gardens is a beautiful part of it, and I enjoyed being out in the sun. The wind had dropped and it was pleasant.

Westgate Towers is the old gaol, now a museum, restaurant and escape room!

On my return to the city, I had a few places I wanted to visit. These included The Beany (House of Art & Knowledge) which is also the city Tourist Information Office, Library and has galleries. But that, I’m afraid, is for next time.

The Hogsmill River/Bonesgate Stream

A bus ride took me to my starting point at Tolworth Court Farm Fields. I wrote about this place last summer when I first visited with a friend. Today, it was rather windy across those fields, and I was still no nearer working which field I was in, and I didn’t end up quite where I thought I would (direction not being my strong point). In fact it was a day of wrong turnings, but wrong turnings can lead to interesting discoveries.

The sun was trying to break through the clouds. I was out early and met mostly dog walkers. Underfoot the fields were a quagmire. Mud soon caked my shoes, and I had to watch where I was walking.

Eventually I found the river, and here was my first error. I turned right instead of left. I was heading along the Bonesgate Stream, not the Hogsmill. If I had followed that track I would have ended up nearer Chessington. There is nothing wrong with Chessington. In fact, I have crossed the Bonesgate on a previous walk through Chessington and Ashtead a couple of years ago. But this wasn’t my plan today. So retraced my steps. But before I move on I will tell you a little about the Bonesgate Stream. One part of it rises in Horton Country Park and the other in Chessington Wood. It joins the Hogsmill at Tolworth Court Farm. The Hogsmill is, of course, a tributary of the River Thames, and it meets the Thames at Kingston at Clattern Bridge, built in 1175, and is one of the oldest bridges in England.

Back on the right track I found where the two rivers meet and followed the Hogsmill. Again, I thought I knew where I was and where I would come out. But no! I have walked this river before in two sections in the past – Toworth to the source at Ewell, and Tolworth to Kingston where it feeds into the Thames – yet none of it seemed familiar!

I came out on a dual carriageway and crossed over by the lights. It took me a little while to locate the way back to the path, but from the bridge (which turnes out to be Tolworth Court Bridge!) there is an excellent view of the river.

This was a lovely path, and I was following a group of walkers who had probably walked from Ewell.

I thought this was a bridge at first but there is a pipe running over the river.

By now the sun was out and, being more sheltered, I wasn’t buffeted by the wind. On this stretch it passes by Surbiton Raceway (GoKarts), and I felt this section was familiar.

And here was my second confusion. The path ended on a main road with the Hogsmill Pub on the corner. I crossed, but it wasn’t long before I realised I was walking away from the river. I doubled back and consulted Google Maps. The only way to follow the river was to walk along the main road. The road had no pavement either side. It is a twisty turny road, and I felt rather unsafe walking along it. On the left Wimpey Homes are building new houses and apartments. Twice I came off and walked down pathways hoping to get back to the river. One turning led only to a health club, and the other was a private road, but at least there were some gorgeous ponies in a field to make friends with.

I finally found the path back to the river and saw my second heron of the day. Trying to take a photo of it proved difficult. Only my bridge camera could get that close, but even that refused to focus on anything but the foilage around it! And then it flew. Below is the best shot (nothing to write home about!)

I was now definitely on familiar ground and walking across Six Acre Meadow. This is famous for John Millais‘s painting Ophelia. The setting is here, though the model for Ophelia (Lizzie Siddel) was painted in a house lying in a bath of water lit by candles to try and keep her warm. That didn’t work. She got hypothermia!

I recenty found out that another Pre-Raphaelite painter, William Holman Hunt, also painted here. There is a great booklet that can be bought from Kingston Museum all about the Hogsmill River and the link to the Pre-Raphaelite artists.

Under the railway bridge by The Hogsmill RIver

I was on the final stretch I had planned for today. My exit point was St John’s Church, Old Malden. But before we leave this lovely river behind, I would like to direct you to the excellent website of Paul Talling where you can find the history of this river and some lovely photos of the whole route. Do take a look.

The delights surrounding St Pancras/Kings Cross Station

Let’s face it St Pancras/Kings Cross station is somewhere you pass through, an interchange for trains out of London. You might exit here for The British Library, which is just across the road, but there is much history here to see if you just wander….or in my case plan!

I’d heard about the Hardy tree for ages and seen photos of it online. I knew it was part of St Pancras Old Church gardens, but I had no idea where that was, and how many times I’d skirted around the edges of it without ever knowing. It was time to seek it out.

The location is easy to find. Depending on which exit you take from St Pancras you need to find Midland Road, general exit for The British Library. Here you cross a road and then turn right into Midland Road. St Pancras Old Church stands with its back to the rail lines and once stood alongside The Fleet River, one of the ‘lost’ rivers of London. There are many lost rivers. Most are now built over, but there is still evidence of them and there are many walks you can take to follow lost rivers. The Fleet was a big river in its day. People fished here, the wealthy lived alongside parts, but eventually everything ended up being thrown into it – animal carcases and other food waste, human waste and so on until it became a cess pit. There have been calls for parts of the Fleet to be uncovered. Sounds great, but I’m not sure how they would do it. The river began in Hamsptead, where also the Westbourne River originates (I have walked the length of that one!). Both rivers join the River Thames. Do read this fascinating article about the River Fleet here. There are some great photos.

St Pancras Old Church stands on the right hand side of Midland Road. I decided to walk around the gardens (former graveyard) first and find the Hardy Tree. And there it was! The story behind this unique place is down to the railway. St Pancras was always looking to expand. They needed more land. To do that they encroached onto the graveyard. Thomas Hardy (yes, the Thomas Hardy, famous author and poet) was overseeing the removal graves for this purpose. He ended up with lots of left over headstones. What to do with them? Well, he had this idea of of placing them around one particular tree. They have sunk into the ground a bit, but they are still there. It is quite a sight and photos don’t do it justice.

However, this is not the end because there are famous people buried here. John Soane, architect and collector (see this link for his museum) has quite a large tomb with what looks like the first phone box on top!

This is also the burial place of Johann Christina Bach (youngest son of composser Johann Sebastian Bach) and Carl Friedrich Abel, and at one time Mary Wollestonecraft was buried here. Her remains have been removed to Bournemouth, but her headstone is still here, and people still come to leave offerings on top of the headstone. Mary was the author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman. She died just ten days after giving birth to her daughter Mary (Shelly) who went on to write Frankenstein.

Offerings are still on top of the headstone

St Pancras Old Church is a small Anglo Catholic Church. Basically, it’s as Catholic as you can get without actually being Catholic. It is the highest form of Anglican Church of England. This means the church is highly decorated with statues, and there is an altar to Our Lady of Walsingham. I loved the atmosphere here, I think because it is compact. The organist was playing and I sat down to listen and to make a short video. Before leaving I bought some postcards and a booklet.

If you cross the gardens to the far end (heading towards the bridge where the trains go over), you can take a short cut to Camley Street Natural Park. On the other side of the bridge, the gardens are just across the road. I came here some years ago with a friend, but it has all changed. Run by the London Wildlife Trust, they have given it an overhaul. There is a new centre with classrooms and cafe. A group of schoolchildren had not long been pond dipping, as their equipment was still out by the pond. They were now in the classroom. I walked the pathways. Staff were busy moving mulch from the front of the building to a plot near the back, so wheelbarrow loads of chippings were being wheeled along the narrow paths. It’s early in the season, so not much plant life about, though I found a group of snowdrops.

The park runs alongside Regent’s Canal. There has been building works going on here forever, it seems, around the station and Coal Drops Yard. They are still building. Before crossing over one of bridges to the busy side of the canal, I stopped and had lunch at the cafe in Camley Street Natural Park. Lovely food and great recycling!

Another view from the park. I love the way the gas works have been re-purposed

Over the bridge there is Coal Drops Yard. This is the former warehouse site, and a train used to come in from the other side (you can still see the tracks if you know where to look). Now it’s all eating places and designer shops and businesses. However, on ground level there is an outdoor Curling venue where you can have a go at the sport that’s popular at the Winter Olympics.

Taken from the bridge – Cafe and classroom

If you are in the mood for a nice walk, there is the canal. But I was getting cold now and it was time to return home.

This is why I love London so much. There are so many places to seek out. London is not all theatres, Buckingham Palace, museums and art galleries. There are quiet spaces just a stone’s throw away from major rail stations, or a trip on the tube.

I must just mention the toilets at Kings Cross. They are some of the best rail station loos I’ve ever used, and they well deserve their award for the best station toilets. Well done. These things are important for travellers and make such a difference after some of the crappy (pun intended) toilets I’ve had to endure in the past.

RSPB Big Garden Watch and a walk through Richmond Park

For the second year running I took part in the RSPB Big Garden Watch, which means counting the birds visiting your garden during one hour during the weekend just gone.

Somehow, I always choose the wrong hour! Normally, we have lots of birds in the garden. I bought them a super-duper bird feeding station earlier this month. I thought this one might deter the pigeons and squirrels. Hah! they soon sussed it out. One pigeon alights on the feeder, and as long as it keeps flapping, it can get the seed. His mates gather round the bottom to catch any seed that falls. They do the same when the starlings raid the suet feeder. The squirrel also does some acrobatics to get at the suet block. However, on Saturday, when I did my one hour count, the garden was mostly devoid of birds!

In my hour I counted four pigeons, one wood pigeon, two robins and two great tits. Other wildlife included the squirrel and a domestic cat. However, I did observe the great tits checking out the bird box in the garden next door. They went in to give it the once over. I wonder if they will be moving in soon.

A few days before the count I observed a parakeet on our bird feeder. That was a first. They do sometimes spend time in a nearby tree, but this gave me a chance to photograph it up close. All the photos were taken through the window, which isn’t ideal, but the best I could do. Next year I will choose a different time and see if I get a better bird count.

Well, it was there and was a photo oppoortunity

_________

Yesterday was a blue sky day, cold but beautiful. I don’t normally go walking or visiting places at the weekend because (a) it tends to be busier (I don’t like crowds) and (b) the trains and tubes are often disrupted due to engineering works on the lines. Even buses are less frequent. Sunday was really my last oportunity for a walk last week, and the day was too nice to ignore. So I set off by bus to Richmond Park, entering through the Kingston Gate. My aim was to walk to Ham or Richmond gate on the opposite side of the park than I have been walking before.

It was, as I knew it would be, busy. People out walking with dogs and family, joggers and cyclists. I couldn’t blame them. It was an ideal day. I arrived at the Ham Gate faster than I tthought I would, so I took a detour outside of the park and walked part of Ham Common. The common was quite muddy and I had walk round the edges of the worst parts. Once I accidentally set foot in a very muddy patch and heard the squealch. As I pulled my shoe away I felt the pull of mud dragging my shoe back in! It was also colder here as it was more shaded and wet. I eventually came out on the road that one way leads back to Richmond Park, and in the other direction to the main road where I could pick up the bus. I headed back towards the park on the other side of the road where the rest of the common lies.

There is a toilet block inside Ham Gate, but it was shut. I thought I must be close to Pembroke Lodge where there is a cafe and toilets. I used Google Maps to locate Pembroke Lodge and headed up the hill towards it. The car park was packed, and the queue for the refreshment hut was long. Luckily there wasn’t a queue for the loos. Afterwards, I decided rather than wait in the long queue for a cuppa, I would go into the Pembroke Lodge cafe. What a great decision that was. No queque here and I was able to find a table outside in the sunshine and drink my tea and eat a declicious slice of vegan carrot cake.

The lake just inside Ham Gate (next to the closed toilet block!)

Busy, busy. The queue is for the refreshment hut

Pembroke House where I had a much more civilised refreshment break!

Parakeets are everywhere in the park, but they are difficult to photograph

View from Kingston Hill towards the River Thames

Suitably refreshed, I set off back down the hill to pick up the path again. It wasn’t too long before I reached the Petersham Gate, but I turned right and back up the hill to eventually come to the Richmond Gate. From here there are the spectacular views from Richmond Hill. Drawn by the sight of the river, I took the steps down to the Thames Path. I had a short stop in a riverside garden before walking the short distance to Richmond Bridge. It was time to leave, so a quick double back to some steps up to road where I caught a bus. The walk was approximately seven miles.

Two Thames Path Walks

Near St Saviour’s Dock where Dickens set scenes from Oliver Twist

(1) Tower Bridge to Greenwich (south bank)

It was a crisp (okay freezing) day, but the sun was out, when I met a friend at London Bridge for our walk along the Thames Path. Although I have walked this section before, it’s amazing how much I’d forgotten. Well, it was several years ago when I last walked it.

We walked through Hays Galleria to join up with the Thames Path where we had to go carefully in the beginning as the frost hadn’t all melted. The smooth paving slabs were slippery and we both almost fell over. We picked our way through, choosing drier patches or rougher slabs until eventually walking became easier. I love walking along Shad Thames where the old warehouses have been converted into apartments, their walkways crossing the path above you and festooned with plants and flowers. I failed to take as many photos as usual, so please have a look at this website for some great information and photos to do this walk justice. There are some stunning shots and a handy map.

Just off the path is a square with a lovely fountain, the edges of which have little bronzes (maybe bronzes…frankly it’s a guess!) of a camera, a notebook, a pen etc. There is also a handy cafe here if you need a warm up.

Back on the on the path we next encounter Dr Salter. His statue, and that of his wife, his daughter and cat all occupy this little park. Dr Salter did much for the poor in Rotherhithe, only to lose his own daughter, Joyce, to scarlet fever. Read all about it here at the excellent Look Up London website (who run fantastic walks too).

Cloud covered the sun as we walked further. All along the route there were little gardens with benches which, in better weather, make a nice resting place. The path occasionally takes you off the Thames where new apartments now stand, but you never away from the river for long, nor far from it.

A good stopping place in spring would be Surrey Docks Farm. Only the cafe was open last week, and they stressed there were no toilet facilities (these are in the farm which as I said was not open). Please see the website for opening times. I have been in before, and it is delightful and really worth a visit.

In Deptford there used to be docks from where James Cook set out to discover Australia. But other famous names are associated with these docks too. Have a read of this short article and this excellent website talks about the connection of John Evelyn and Samuel Pepys to the docks.

All that is left of the original docks are these stone pillars.

Walking out of Pepys Park we came across a mile post. It’s not often one sees these type with long distances recorded. I was wondering how one got to Dover from here, but I no doubt there is a pathway somewhere as you head out to Kent where you leave the Thames Path and join another pathway to Dover. Oxford, of course, is on the Thames Path, one of many sections I have not yet walked.

Now it was possible to see Greenwich in the distance. At some point on the walk I had changed my socks because my original pair were chaffing. I believe they were too loose so that my foot was sliding in them. It is always a good idea to have spare socks (and plasters) on long walks! The change helped, but it was good to know we weren’t far off our main stop.

Greenwich in the distance. The tide was in and lapping the wall. It was like being at the seaside if you closed your eyes.

The sun was out again, and our thoughts turned to food and toilets! For lunch we found The Old Brewery where we had a most excellent soup in wonderful surroundings (see photos). It was a chance to sit and recover. We talked about walking on to the Thames Barrier, our original destination, but having studied the map (and knowing there was a long haul around the O2) we decided to end our walk in Greenwich. Besides which, I don’t think our legs were quite up to another three to four miles. We’d walked near on eight miles already. That was enough.

From Greenwich it is an easy journey back into London using the DLR and changing at Canary Wharf to the Jubilee Line.

If you enjoyed this, do take a look at a walk I took in 2014 – a circular walk from London Bridge to Tower Bridge incorporating both sides of the River Thames with a couple of stops to view inside churches. You can read it here.

(2) Putney Bridge to Hammersmith Bridge

I was meeting a friend in Hammersmith and decided to take the bus to Putney and walk there along the Thames. The day was brilliant, but freezing (again). I know this section well, as I have walked along it many times, as well as having visited Fulham Football Club, which sits along the edge of Thames. My youngest son has a season ticket to Fulham but got me and my other son tickets when Spurs were playing Fulham. So we were there on the same day, but he was in the home end and we were in the away end. It was too far across to see him and wave!

Fulham Palace and its gardens sit to the right of the path. Always a delight to visit if you have time. The house is interesting, and it is easy to get lost in the gardens, or maybe that’s just me! Along the Thames Path is Bishops Park Riverside Walk, another lovely diversion. The gardens have a lake with a pretty bridge and lots of wildfowl can always been seen. There is a children’s area and huge sand pit.

Below is one of my favourite parts of the walk. I love to see the trees, winter or summer, hang over the path. It reminds me a little of the walk along Chelsea Embankment.

The gardens along Bishops Park Riverside

The walk to Hammersmith takes a little over half an hour, depending on the speed you walk. I had to speed up as I realised I was going to be late! Soon I could see Hammersmith Bridge in the distance. The bridge has been closed for a long time due to structural defects. It is now open to pedestrians and cyclists. This is the second long term closure to traffic I remember. I do hope this time whatever they do works this time. However, these bridges were not meant to carry the volume or weight of traffic they now do.

St Albans, Hertfordshire

I have been to St Albans twice before. The first time I hardly remember, the second time with my church, when we had a service in the chapel in the Cathedral. This time, I was determined to see all the Roman remains. I checked to make sure everything was open, and I didn’t have to pre-book (yes they were, apart from the Clock Tower which opens again in March, and no I didn’t have to pre-book anything).

I took the easier route for me and time-wise I don’t think it was much different from getting into London first. I’d always fancied taking the Thames Link train from Wimbledon. You used to be able to go direct from there to St Albans, but now you have to change at Blackfriars. However, it was an interesting journey. The train stopped at places I had never been through, and some I had never heard of! I guess the journey is slow because it stops so many times, but then someone said it’s not the destination, it’s the journey. I’d say both!

At Blackfriars I had to change platforms. Knowing I had about three minutes transfer time, I asked for directions rather than scramble about trying to work it out on my own. From here the train crosses the River Thames (Blackfriars station is actually on a bridge over the Thames!) to City Thames Link, which I didn’t know existed! You can get out here for St Paul’s Cathedral. West Hampstead (City Thames Link) is the final stop before the train picks up speed and you head into the countryside to St Albans City. The day was wall-to-wall sunshine.

My first point of call was Verulamium Park. Verulamium is the name Romans gave to St Albans and is the third largest Roman settlement in England, the other two being London and Colchester. I know the Romans were a cruel lot, but their building techniques and art are stunning. How many years did we wait for underfloor heating after the Romans left?

Verulamium was a huge find for archeologists and the Museum in the park holds all the finds from the digs. I’d never seen quite so many skeletons, including babies. There is a reconstruction of the face of one man who died and many items of grave goods, including food for the journey to the other side. The museum fans out from a main hall and covers all aspects of Roman life. In fact, the museum is built over the site of the Roman Basilica. There are mock rooms and wall paintings, pottery, jewellery, coins and lots of information about Roman life. There is also a video presentation as you enter which is worth stopping to watch, as it shows a history of Verulamium and excavations carried out.

The park is large with a lovely lake and bridge, and it is here that you also find the structure housing the mosaic floor and hypocaust. I also went in search of the Roman wall indicated on the map, but all I got for my trouble was damp feet from trudging through boggy grass! Well, you can’t win them all.

In the museum you can buy a combined ticket to visit the Roman Theatre, which is what I did. The site is a few minutes walk from the museum, crossing a main road (traffic lights operate). The theatre was quite stunning. Only ruins, of course, but I was the only one there. It was quiet, and I found a seat to sit on overlooking the theatre. Clearly, you can see where the stage was with its one remaining pillar. There would have been bear baiting and gladiatorial fights. The site is bigger than I imagined, with sections still yet to be excavated. What more will they find?

One pillar remains where the stage was – Roman Theatre

St Albans Cathedral taken from Verulamium Park

I headed back into the park and walked around the lake, which in parts had flooded over the footpath and found part of a wall called St Germain’s Block. This isn’t the part of the wall I was looking for. Nevertheless, it is a Roman wall! St Albans lacks the Roman walls that London has (near Tower Gateway tube station and Barbican have some great sections).

Finally, I headed for the Cathedral. A lovely tour guide explained about the wall paintings which I was interested in and explained the story of St Alban. He was martyred after swapping clothes with a Christian, so the man could escape from his pursuers. Check out the whole story here on the website for St Albans Cathedral. While there explore the rest of the site.

Wall paintings in churches were whitewashed over during the Reformation, so it is rare to see them, but where they are found, they are being restored where possible. The pillars and arches in the Cathedral are stunning, yet as the guide pointed out, on the other side of the nave the arches are different. These are more gothic. This part was added after the original collapsed, so at one time those beautiful arches would have adorned both sides of the nave.

Here you see the difference between the original arches (left) and the more modern (right)

There are stunning stained glass windows too and the main chapel with its polished wood choir stalls and beautiful ceiling always stops me in my tracks. There was a funeral taking place in one area of the Cathedral, so that was off limits, but there was still much to see. Afterwards I headed into the cafe. Sadly, I was too late for hot food (it was after 2pm), so I had to make do with a large slice of coffee and walnut cake. I mean it’s a hard life, isn’t it?!

Another favourite place of mine in the Cathedral

The day had gone quickly. If you are travelling to St Albans from inner London, the quickest way is to catch the train from St Pancras International, but I returned home the same way I came, even though it was a slower train (more stops). I suppose I should visit Colchester one day and then I will have visited all three largest Roman cities.

Taken at Blackfriars Station coming home. Sunset.

Late Constable exhibition at the Royal Academy

The Leaping Horse – John Constable (1825)

John Constable was born in Suffolk in 1776, and was admitted as a student to the RA in 1799. He exhibited at the Royal Academy, especially the Annual Exhibition, for a number of years before he gained full membership to the establishment. Constable became an associate member in 1819, but it was not until 1829 that full membership was his, and even then it was a close run thing. He won by just a single vote.

Constable married Maria Bicknell in 1816 and in 1819 he moved his family to Hampstead, due to the ill health of his wife. The most famous of his paintings, The Hey Wain (1824) was not on show in the exhibition. It received a gold award from the Paris Salon.

Constable frequently moved his family to Brighton, again due to Maria’s ill health. The last of these visits came in 1828, an extended stay. In late November Maria died of TB. It is said Constable wore mourning clothes for the rest of his life.

In 1831 Constable taught at the RA, and in 1832 there was the famous stand-off at the Annual Exhibition with Turner, who reportedly upstaged Constable’s The Opening of Waterloo Bridge (on show at the exhibition) by adding a blob of red paint to his own Helvoetsluys.

Constable taught Life Class in the Painting School at the RA in March 1837, but unexpectedly died on 1st April. He was buried alongside Maria at St John-at-Hampstead. Arundel Mill and Castle which Constable had been working on was posthumously exhibited at the Royal Academy that year. Although not quite finished, I could not tell. It looks complete to me!

It was interesting to see Constable’s preparatory sketches, both pencil and oil alongside the finished painting. He worked mainly in oil, but later also watercolour.

This was a very enjoyable exhibition. I believe I have seen the house he lived in when in Hampstead. Somewhere in my archive of photos, I have a shot of the blue plaque outside it.

The exhibition runs to 13th February. See here.

Morden Hall Park & Merton Abbey Mills

I chose the day least likely to rain, which came the day before New Year’s Eve. I set off by bus and tram to visit a popular haunt of mine. Having been here so many times, I didn’t think there was much left here to surprise me. How wrong I was.

The park was busy with families (kids riding new bikes) and dog walkers. The weather was surprisingly warm for December, up to 16 degrees and people were eating outdoors.

There was a ‘Percy the Park Keeper’ trail for the children (I used to read these books to my children) and both cafes were open, as well as the secondhand bookshop and garden centre.

The secondhand bookshop – always worth a browse

After lunch in the National Trust cafe, I walked through the wetlands area along the River Wandle, passed Dean City Farm and finished my walk at Merton Abbey Mill, where William Morris used to have workshops. Later, Liberty’s of London had buildings here, including a print shop.

At weekends there is a market (though I have never been), and the various craft shops are open. There are places to eat here and a pub (The William Morris), and I found the pottery shop, which I have never been in before. Here you can see the mechanics of the waterwheel which still works and was working on the day I was there.

The River Wandle flows alongside Merton Abbey Mills

The working waterwheel inside the pottery shop

It was good to get out for a walk at long last, even for a short one like this.

I hope you all enjoyed some sort of New Year’s celebration, despite Covid. I look forward to sharing many walks and places of interest with you in the coming months.

The remains of the Merton Priory. I’ve read that there are other remains in the Saintsbury’s Car Park, but I’ve never gone looking for them!

A little book buying from the garden shop!

Frosty photos

The weather put pay to my Boxing Day walk. It’s rained three days in a row and I am desperate to get out and walk, especially after all the food I’ve consumed over Christmas. I hope everyone had a good day.

A few days before Christmas, I woke to a frosty morning, so it was now or never to get out there and take some photos. I didn’t go far, just around where I live, but I braved the cold in order to capture the frost before the sun burnt it off. I think it was worth it.