Red House, Bexleyheath, Kent

Red House

Red House was built by architect Philip Webb for William Morris. The two were good friends. The Morris’ only lived here for five years, and some of the wall decorations are incomplete, but the house is beautiful and fascinating. There were plans for Edward Burne-Jones and his family to move in later, making it a village for the Arts and Craft Movement, but the extension planned was never forthcoming because circumstances changed. The Burne-Jones’ lost their baby boy shortly after birth (he was premature) and the constant trips to London for business got too much for William Morris, so it was decided to move the family back to London. Morris could not bear to return to house once it was sold on. It was his dream home.

As readers to this blog will know, William Morris is a hero of mine and regularly crops up in posts! This house has been on my ‘hit list’ for many years and it did not disappoint. Entrance to the house is by tour only, booked in advance. It’s free to National Trust members. Not all the rooms are accessible, but enough. Owners after the Morris’ did paint over things, but on occasions left strips to show what it was like. Most of the furniture is not original (though there is little furniture anyway), but what is there is in keeping with the Arts and Craft Movement. Original pieces were gifted to museums. The Ashmoleum Museum in Oxford has some pieces (gifted by Janey Morris after William’s death) as Morris studied at the University as well as helped paint the Debating Chamber of the new Oxford Union, recruited by Rossetti. Other pieces can be found at other houses the Morris’ lived in and the museum in Walthamstow (Morris’ childhood home)

Entrance to Red House

The inside of the front door is not original, but the then owner repainted it and followed the lines of the previous decoration. The stained glass was also added. I think it fits in well with the style.

The entrance hall is large and was used by the Morris’ as a dining hall. A table was moved into the space and lively conversation, as well as good food, would have made for an interesting evening with all of Morris’ friends. Morris was known for his love of food (Edward Burne-Jones often drew little cartoon sketches of Morris as round and jolly, and sometimes in a fit of temper, which his close friends seemed to encourage!). Morris also liked his drink and would come up from the cellar with several bottles of wine.

Settle-cum-cupboard, Entrance Hall

The settled in the entrance hall was designed by Philip Webb especially for the house. Morris painted the central panels with a scene from Malory (Sir Lancelot bringing Sir Tristram and the Belle Iseult to Joyous Gard). They include portraits of Janey (seated left) and Burne-Jones feeding a cherry to his wife Georgiana. However, the piece remains unfinished and was later painted green, and then brown during the second world war when the house was occupied by the National Assistance Board. I believe Rations Books may have been kept in in the settle cupboard!

The wallpaper in the house is not original as the house was pre-Morris’ wallpapers, but was added at a later date.

The dining room has a row of original William Morris chairs as well as a dresser designed by Webb and painted dragon’s blood red (in keeping with Red House!). This was a favourite colour of William Morris.

Kindy do not sit on the WIlliam Morris chairs!
The fireplace, dining room
The dresser, dining room
Embroidered panel depicting Aphrodite designed by William Morris and believed to have been worked by Morris’ sister-in-law, Bessie Burden)
Decorated ceiling over the stairs

I loved the landing with its wood floor, sofa and beautiful windows worked by William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones.

Landing window – William Morris
Not sure if this is original. I suspect not, but covered with William Morris fabric. (Landing)

William Morris’ bedroom was quite a surprise in that it was quite small. There were no furnishings here except wall paintings, unfinished and not in best condition. Those who came after Morris whitewashed the walls, but there are patches where you can see what was there before. Again, the paintings are unfinished.

Unfinished painted wall in the bedroom depicting characters from the Bible, including (far left) Adam and Eve
This wall hanging is a copy of one worked on by Janey Morris. The original is at Kelmscott
Landing ceiling and more windows!
Morris’ studio. This is one of two wood blocks on show for Morris wallpapers

In the studio the walls are cracking! Apparently, the foundations were not sunk deep enough and lies on chalk. However, the outside cracks have been dealt with, but inside they have been left. I believe it was here that the extension was going to be placed for the Burne-Jones family.

Fireplace, drawing room. Apparently it was rather smoky!

The drawing room is upstairs (like the studio) and the room I most wanted to see as I’d seen images of it online. Look closely at some of these photos to spot the cracks in the walls!

Ceiling, drawing room.

The ceiling was painted over by a new owner, but he left a few strips of the original (he also put the false beams in to make it look more rustic!). The original ceiling would have looked like the photo below.

The piano was given by Ford Maddox Brown, a pre-Raphaelite artist
The settle

The settle in the drawing room was designed by William Morris for his Red Lion Square home, but when it moved here Philip Webb added the canopy and ladder to create a gallery where plays were performed. It also had another use as access to the massive loft space where things were stored. Little doors leading to places interest me. There is another door similar to this on the landing which we were told was used to go through to ‘clear the pigeons away’ as it went into loft space.

The wall decorations are by Edward Burne-Jones and Rossetti. They seem to be the only completed works in the house!

Wall painting by Edward-Burne Jones (top) decoration to the bottom (William Morris), drawing room

We were told that the house is freezing in the winter and hot in the summer. It was certainly very hot inside the day we were there, and not many windows open. (I did wonder whether the windows were too delicate to open or that they were worried about things inside being spoiled!)

Our tour was almost over. Downstairs there is a room given open as a museum with various information boards with the history of the house and objects belonging to Philip Webb and Morris. And then we went into the garden where we were free to roam.

Other buildings designed by Philip Webb
Fireplace, museum room
Pilgrim’s Resr Garden Porch – Morris
A well that isn’t a well!
The gardens
Red House

The house exceeded my expectations. I may go back one day as it is a lot to take in. I loved the gardens, too. The house is only open on certain days of the week and there is no cafe any longer. However, there are the all important toilets! The nearest railway station is Bexleyheath with trains into London. However, due to a mistake (I hold my hands up to this one!), we went on a different train and ended up at Bexley. I have to say in hindsight, this turned out to be the best option. Bexley has a village feel whereas Bexleyheath is just like most big towns (Morris liked Bexley!). Bexleyheath is just a short bus ride away and we were able to stop and have some lunch. Coming from Bexleyheath station it is a bit of a walk to the town and then you have to walk back to the house. Had the cafe at Red House still been there, this would not be a problem.

Guildford – a break in the Surrey countryside

The Clock, Guildford High Street

I had come to Guildford for one reason only, and that was to view The Watts Gallery and Artist Village in Compton. Without transport it is not easy. There is an hourly bus service from the bus station in Guildford, which leaves ten minutes after the bus I was taking to Guildford arrives! I could have used the train, but I fancied a jaunt out on the bus. So, rather than trying to do the trip in a day, it became a three night break.

The Watts Gallery has been on my hit list for many years but due to the awkwardness of getting there, it had been put off. Not this time.

Guildford is not a cheap place to stay, and travelling alone I wanted a central hotel. With my option of dates dwindling, I booked The Angel Posting House & Livery on the High Street. The only coaching house remaining in Guildford and built in 1527 on the former site of the Whitefriars Monastery, I was in good company, as the likes of Charles Dickens, Jane Austen and Oliver Cromwell had stayed here. My suite (yes, suite!) was called the James Boswell Suite. Next door was William Pitt! You can read about the history of the hotel here. The hotel is quirky and the labyrinth of corridors to get to and from my room was a feat in itself. A map would have been handy. One had to look for pointers. Remember the plant, I was advised, as the young lady on reception led me up stairs, down steps, through fire doors and round corners. The first time I left the room, I missed the first fire door and ended up opening a cupboard on the landing! But my room was massive and the windows overlooked the alleyway where the horses and coaches would have once entered and exited. From the window I watched the most beautiful sunsets every night.

Sunset over Guildford

The hotel was room only as there is a Bill’s downstairs where I could have had breakfast (opened at 8am), but I never used it.

My suite
Main landing (Bill’s downstairs -exit only)

It has been a few years since I was last in Guildford. I remember when the kids were young I took them to the castle, and some years ago I attended the Flower Festival at the Cathedral (set just outside the town), but my visits have been few and far between. So, on arrival day, I set off on a walk to get my bearings.

The Old Mill across the River Wey
Millmead Lock, Guildford
Guildford Castle (keep closed)
One of the best views of Guildford from the castle (Cathedral in the distance)
Castle gardens. A nice place to sit and relax
High Street, Guildford looking towards the town bridge and river

The next morning I set off for the Watts Gallery. The bus didn’t arrive! I ended up sharing an Uber taxi with a young man who works in a restaurant in Compton village (just beyond the galleries). What a kind person, and what luck that he was there.

The Watts’ were part of the Arts & Craft Movement of which I am so very fond (think William Morris). Mary Watts was George Watts’ second wife. I was surprised to find that George was previously (and very briefly) married to the actress Ellen Terry. The Watts’ worked in London before moving out to Compton to set up galleries, a chapel and classes in pottery for the locals. What they did there was astonishing. The house, Limnerslease, was their home, but also where they worked. The ceiling panels in the hall and living room were designed and worked by Mary. The hall ceiling panels depict the various religions. Mary was also fond of repurposing items, and the wood either side of the living room doors are from a church. The grounds in which the house stands are quiet and beautiful.

Limnerslease
George F Watts Studio
Mary Watts’ Gallery
Ceiling panels
Re-purposed wood from a church (living room)

A short walk along the main road you come to the Chapel and cemetery. On opening the chapel door the only word I can say is “WOW”. Every part is painted with motifs. It is stunning and none of my photos will ever do it justice. It reminds me of Byzantium churches. Local red clay is used even in the graveyard, with headstones and, of course, the cloisters where George F Watts was buried, and later Mary.

Watts Chapel
Watts Chapel inside
Ceiling
Detail
G F Watts Grave
Cloisters
Chapel
Well – Mary Watts

Back to the main buildings and to the Watts Galleries with paintings, sculptures and the De Morgan Collection.

Watts Galleries
One of the galleries – G F Watts
De Morgan Collection (Evelyn -painter – William tiles/ceramics)

You can read about Evelyn de Morgan here.

Wiliam de Morgan
G F Watts – cast for Physical Energy

Main entrance – shop and cafe

The cafe on site is really nice – I had a lovely lunch. The shop is large with many items to woo you. Above the shop is a contemporary gallery selling new works by current artists, which is also worth a look. You need to allow around four hours to see everything without rushing. In the guide book there is a walk yu can take through the village and across the fields back to the galleries, but I didn’t do that, and considering how long I waited for the damn bus (which didn’t arrive) I might as well have! The lady in the shop called me a taxi. Although it is only a ten minute journey, it is a hassle getting there. That’s my only negative of the day. Everything else was pretty mind blowing.

On my final day, I decided I would go walking, and I found a nice route along the River Wey from Guildford to Godalming (approx 4 miles). This was a pretty walk with a number of locks and narrowboats passing through.

Near Guildford
St Catherine’s Lock
Last lock before Godalming
Godalming
I’ve arrived at my destination
The town of Godalming

I had an early lunch in Godalming and caught the bus back to Guildford where I had a look around Guildford Museum before my second walk of the day. I staggered up Pewley Hill to Pewley Down. Staggered is about it! I can walk miles, but steep hills kill me. Someone had helpfully installed a bench after the worst part of the hill. Gratefully, I sat down to recover before the last haul up to the down. It was worth it though, for the view. Pewley Down is a lovely spot to sit and just enjoy the countryside, with bird song, the neigh of a horse, the buzz of bees and butterflies flitting from flower to flower.

Pewley Down

I hope you have enjoyed this wander into Surrey with me. It was a great trip for me.

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