Canterbury Part 3 – An Abbey and the oldest church in the English-speaking world

Sign post

The day dawned grey and unpromising. It didn’t disappoint in that regard. By late morning there was drizzle in the air. Nevertheless, there were things to see and see them I was!

St Augustine’s Abbey lies just beyond the City walls, but is only a short walk and one busy road to cross. Founded in 598 after St Augustine converted the King of Kent to Christianity. Augustine’s mission was to convert all Anglos-Saxons in Britain from paganism. The Abbey went on to be one of the finest and most influential in Europe. The extent of the building is amazing. I was particularly taken with the crypt. I also found a church dedicated to Saint Pancras and that took me all the way back to London and St Pancras Old Church in Kings Cross/St Pancas where I visited only a few weeks ago. I love it when history comes together.

St Augustine’s Abbey
It has wow factor!
Tombs of the kings and archbishops
The tombs have been covered over (roof) to keep safe

I decided to find out a little about this lesser known Saint. He was a Roman citizen who converted to Christianity and was beheaded for his faith at the age of fourteen in around 305. There are shrines to him in various countries. If you would like to read more about him go here.

St Pancras Church linked to shrines all over the world and to St Pancras Old Church, London
The original church remains
Note the red bricks. These are Roman and the church was Anglo-Saxon. Must be one of just a few remaining sites. One of the highlights for me.

One of my favourite views across the ruins looking towards Canterbury Cathedral

The Crypt seemed to be one of the most intact places, and I could almost visualise what it must have looked like. There felt to be something special here.

The crypt
Chapel to St Thomas
Chapel to the Blessed Virgin Mary
The crypt

Outside the gate to the Abbey is a plan of a pilgrimage from here which is interesting. I wonder how many pilgrims have taken this route?

The Pilgrims’ Way

From the Abbey, I walked to St Martin’s Church, which can be found further up the road (signposted well). Unfortunately it was shut, but I was able to walk around the outside and take photographs. This, as you will note from the first photo below, is the oldest church in the English-speaking world! That is some claim.

First base of St Augustine

Inside the church there is a statue of Bertha, wife of King Æthelberht, who St Augustine converted to Christianity. You may remember that Bertha was already a Christian, and it was her condition of marriage that he convert! Nice to see a woman with power!

Entrance
Outside of the church you see different stone work.

The church has been added to, as was common, but the oldest part is Anglo-Saxon. From the outside it isn’t obvious which it is, but if you look at the website you can access videos about the walls and about Bertha and how the King restored the church for her.

St Martin’s, St Augustine’s Abbey and Canterbury Cathedral are all part of UNESCO World Heritage Site. I wonder how many cities have three such sites!

I’m assuming the red brick is the oldest, but I’m guessing!
St Martin’s

After my visits I headed back into the city. The weather was closing in, so it was a quick walk around and before heading back to the hotel.

Eastbridge Hospital (note how the door and outer walls have sunk into the ground!

I headed into The Beany again to view the art galleries I missed last time. This artist impressed me with his use of cardboard (he paints as well). He likes to use recycled material in his work.

Rough Sea – John Horne

A few purchases! The Greyfriar came from the Eastbridge Gardens shop. The gardens were closed due to the storm (they had trees down), but at least the shop was open, and I couldn’t resist this little chappie!

Part 4 (the final one) is on its way. There is another storm coming and I have another mad idea!

This blog post is dedicated to my friend John, who died last week. He was an avid reader of my blog, and he said it kept him going during Covid lockdowns. I will miss him very much. RIP.

Canterbury – Part 2

Characters from The Canterbury Tales

Last time I left you as I was about to enter The Beany House of Art & Knowledge. This has multiple uses. It is the city’s Tourist Information Centre, the library, and has several art galleries and permanent displays. Because it was half term, some of the displays were aimed at children.

Window on the staircase
The Clangers – a popular children’s TV programme from the past that is having a revival
Dolls House furniture

I mentioned that the creator of Rupert (Mary Tourtel 1974-1948) was born in Canterbury and many books were on display, as well as the sheet music of the Frog Song written by Paul McCartney.

Canterbury Tales crockery

These pink marble capitals (above) are thought to be the stones from Thomas Becket’s tomb, which was destroyed during King Henry VIII’s time. They were found sticking out of the River Stour. It can never be proved, but pink marble is rare, but has been found in Canterbury Cathedral, so it is quite likely!

The photo below shows what was once a lodging house. Note the date AD1573. Although it says Queen’s Chambers, she (Elizabeth I) did not stay there, but at St Augustine’s in 1573. The Chamber was part of the Crown Inn. These days it is occupied by Caffe Nero!

My next visit was to the Roman Museum, close to the Cathedral. It isn’t a huge museum, but I loved it. Anything Roman does it for me!

At the door
A horse and a Roman – what more could a girl want!
Look closely at this picture. No 6 on here is where the hotel is! The theatre.
Most Romans ate out, the equivalent of fast food!
Hair dressing
After the Romans left, it was Anglo-Saxons who dominated. A bit of a come down in the housing sector, I think!
Under the floor in this building are the remains of heating systems, pavements and floors
Mosaic floor

After leaving the Roman Museum, I still had some to kill, as I’d noted that the Crypt in the Cathedral wasn’t due to open until 2pm, so I found The Chocolate Cafe and order this special.

Drizzled with white chocolate and icing sugar. Devine!

Finally to Canterbury Cathedral. I came here many years ago, but remember none of it! The entrance, I’m sure has changed. It’s new, a proper entrance off the street, then you walk through the Cathedral shop, outside and across to enter the building. The Cathedral is presently clad in scaffolding, so not very photogenic. Inside, the first part is also clad in scaffolding, but thankfully things improve. The amount of stained glass windows astound me, and the Cathedral is so big. I’d forgotten that. There are so many chapels and stairs. It seems to go on forever.

Like many churches and Cathedrals, Canterbury has been built at different times. New parts were added over the years. A quick bit of history. In AD 597 missionaries from Rome arrived and converted the King of Kent to Christianity. The King’s wife Bertha was already a Christian, whereas the King was at that time, pagan. Augustine (leader of the mission) was consecrated as Archbishop. The Cathedral has been the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury ever since.

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The outside of the Cathedral – trying to miss the scaffolding!
Inside
Compass Rose – symbol of the world-wide Anglican Community with Canterbury the mother church

The cloisters
Cloisters
View of the Cathedral from the cloisters
Detail of ceiling (cloisters)
Chapterhouse
One of many stained glass windows
Quire
Particular favourites of mine due to the vivid colour
Amnesty International chapel
The Paschal Candles
Going up the steps

The Martyrs Chapel
Down in the Crypt no photography was allowed, but I sneaked this one. ‘Transport’ by Antony Gormley hovers over the place of Thomas Becket’s original tomb

In my last post I gave a link to Thomas Becket. However, here is a different one which explains the story, should you wish to know who he was and why he was murdered.

Altar to Thomas Becket at the place where he was slain

Ceiling in the Cathedral

Part 3 will be coming soon, and includes a visit to St Augustine’s Abbey, and to a churchyard.

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