There aren’t many places one can go without booking in advance these days, but Southwark Cathedral is one of them. I went along mainly to see the small exhibition called Treasures of the Thames that is situated in the corridor between the catheral and the shop (closed) and the Refectory (open). There are only three cases showing finds from the Thames shoreline, but all the objects are interesting.
I was alone the cathedral for much of the time. That’s never happened before. It’s usually buzzing with activity. A small service was taking place in the Harvard Chapel (socially distanced and closed to the public). In some ways it was nice to wander in such a place alone, yet a shame to see all the seating removed and this magnificent building so little used at the moment.
From the Choir stallsThe chapels
Me and Will Shakespeare in the Cathedral gardens
I did venture into the Refectory (again, just three people sitting together at a table). I bought a hot drink and sat inside this normally bustling cafe. Afterwards I walked back to the station along the south bank. The weather had been sunny when I’d ventured out that morning, but clouds were gathering. It was only a matter of time before rain would start. However, I took the opportunity to go down to the shoreline myself. There is a gate not far from Gabriel’s Wharf that is often open. It is here you usually find a sand scuplturer and kids playing on this sandy section. It’s very beach-like.
An empty Gabriel’s WharfLow tide
I began searching, prodding with my foot, looking for something to take home. One is supposed to have a Licence to Mudlark (as it is called), but I didn’t think I would find anything anyway. What I did bring home were pieces of coloured glass, bits of pottery a bone (everyone has had a laugh about that one, telling me it’s a chicken bone – it probably is) and some pieces that could be pipe stems. Once you get your eye in, you can find all sorts of things. Some of it is modern, like the bottle cap I found, but you never know what might be there.
By the time I left rain was spitting. I’d had the best of the day, and one day, I promised myself, I would book a session with the expert Mudlarkers and get some knowledge!
My treasures! Possible pipe stems (?) left, near the top, very brown!
This was a visit where two people (friends) who were going to the exhibition together, had to enter apart to get in! With local restrictions (Covid 19) two households are not allowed to mix indoors, and this also means not visiting galleries together. The RA had not connacted me about this (I’d bought the tickets before these restrictions were in place). It was my friend who told me as she had seen it on their website. However, it’s not blazen across their website – I had to go looking for it. So, we worked out a stratergy. Luckily, the tickets (printable) were on separate sheets, so when we met I gave my friend her ticket. We bought lunch at the station and ate in Trafalgar Square.
The Fourth Plinth, Trafalgar Square
On arrival at the RA I went in first and my friend followed a few minutes later. We went round the exhibition separately and met up in the last room before going around the shop together. Outside we had a cuppa and sat by the statue of Joshua Reynolds for a chat.
Bringing the Past to New Horizons – Anthena Anastasiou
I understand the policy of the RA, but everyone has to wear a mask, the numbers of people kept are low (the RA does really well, and I applaude them for that. I always feel safe there). But we were just two people, not a group. My friend was convinced we would get stopped. I was pretty certain we would be okay. Obvioulsy now, I would not book tickets for us while the restrictions are in place, but we did do it safely.
Vier Plus Eins – Anselm Kiefer
And so to the exhibition. There was a good mix of painting, sculpture and models. I always love the model room where mock-up buildings stand showing new buildings for industry, people and the idea of new worlds. Planners always have interesting ideas, and there is something very ‘dolls house’ about them that make me want to play with them!
Here the famous rub shoulders with other artists. Anyone can enter for a fee of £35. This year my sister-in-law entered a piece of sculpture. She got through the first round and was asked to take her work in for the second round, but unfortunately she was not picked. However, to get through the first stage is an achievement in itself.
There is work here by two of my favourite artists – Anselm Kiefer and Grayson Perry. I took photos of things I liked or struck me as interesting. I also get ideas from these sorts of exhibitions. I am a dabbler in art. After years of not drawing or painting I have graduated back to ‘having a go’. Fired up by Grayson Perry’s Art Club on TV during the worst of lockdown, I produced something for each week, and I am currently taking part in a Twitter’s Inktober, producing ink drawings and ink wash in response to daily prompts. I still haven’t found my medium, but I do love working with ink. However, I want to try other things (I’m a hopeless watercolourist). I only share a few of my ink drawings on Twitter. Basically, everyone is so good, I was embarassed! I do share them on Facebook. Oh, my poor friends!
Ghost Towers (after Piranes) – Emily Allchurch
However, art is for everyone, and I find it relaxing. It’s been something to hang on to in these times, however bad my art is, and sometimes it is really bad. But back to exhibition. I think there is something here for everyone, whatever your taste – traditional and experimental. Hopefully, next year the exhibition will be back to its summer slot. But who knows where we will be in 2021.
A trip out of London for a few days was something I’d tentatively planned while we were in lockdown. Having had to cancel two holidays I wondered if a short break would be possible this year. Well, I booked to go to Winchester only a few weeks ago. I found a nice self-catering apartment just off the city centre where I stayed for four nights last week. It didn’t take me long to settle in and enjoy the small garden where I regularly sat in the afternoons with my tea and a book.
A break in the garden
I know Winchester well and have been many times, either for a day (it’s only about an hour by train from London) or to stay for a few nights. One year it was for the Christmas market.
Winchester Guildhall
I’d decided this break would mostly be a walking trip. I have visited most of the places of interest – Museum, The Great Hall, a couple of unique churches and the Discovery Centre. With some places still closed, others needed booking in advance, so I chose only things I could go to without booking. And of course with walking you don’t need to wear a face mask!
Winchester Cathedral
The first full day was spent following the river Itchen and it’s journey into the Winnall Moors Nature Reserve. There it is so peaceful, yet you are so close to the city. There is a pond and boardwalk, and if you are lucky enough you might even see a water vole (I didn’t). Afterwards I followed the river back in a different direction and then walked into the city for lunch at the Winchester Cathedral Refectory.
In the afternoon I had a stroll to West Hill Cemetery, which is old. Grass has been left so that it attracts wildlife. I remember the first time I had come through here some years ago dragging my suitcase along the main path. I was going to Winchester University (this is a regular cut through from the station) to attend a weekend writing conference. Now I had time to wander off the path and admire the view from the top of the hill. I forgotten how steep the hill was up to the cemetery!
West Hill Cemetery
On the second day I took a bus out of Winchester to Alresford (takes about 20 minutes by bus). The countryside is beautiful and the town has wide roads, grass verges and colourfully painted buildings. Here is also the home of the Watercress Line steam railway. The railway was runing, though I didn’t go on it. I just took some photos through fences!
Alresford
I’d come for the Millennium Trail, following the River Arle. I have to say it is one of the prettiest walks I have done in a long while. The ducks were out in force! Mums with small children were feeding them. On the trail there is Eel House and the Fulling Mill (a thatched house built over the river that is so pictureque). The trail takes you alongside private land and comes out on the Winchester Road, and that takes you back to town. I skipped off back down another way to rejoin the river and eat my packed lunch while watching the ducks. There was a short detour (to see where it led!) where I found Arle Mill as well as a waterfall. That was a truly lovely day and somewhere I had never visited before.
The Pond, Old AlresfordThe River ArleEel HouseThe Fulling MillWinchester Road looking down into Alresford with St John’s Church in the background
Waterfall
Arle Mill
My final full day started late and I decided to visit Winchester Cathedral, as there was no need to book. It took me a while to realise what was different about the cathedral. And then later it clicked – all the seating had been removed from the centre. The chapels were also closed, though I took photos through the bars. I think the crypt was also closed, though I have been there before. There is an Antony Gormley figure down there. The cathedral had a special exhibition on entitled Kings & Scribes which was over three floors. It was really interesting, especially as I’d recently read a book about the Vikings where King Alfred of Wessex featured! There is a statue of King Alfred in Winchester.
Winchester Cathedral
On the end of the tomb of Bishop William of Wykeham
Replica of St Swithan’s Tombe
After the cathedral I walked along by the river to the castle ruins of Wolvesey and then headed off along the water meadows to The Hospital of St Cross and Almshouses. The building was closed (apart from the shop), but I had been before. Last time the church was being prepared for a wedding. This time I sat on a bench and watched walkers pass with their dogs and the dragonsflies flit around, while eating my lunch. Then it was slow walk back.
Ruins of Wolvesey Castle, WinchesterThe Water MeadowsSt Catherine’s Hill from the |Water MeadowsThe Hospital of St Cross
My break in Winchester was soon over. I was lucky with the weather – no rain and warm. I am sure I shall return soon as it is my favourite city. There is lots to do and some lovely walks, some of which which incorporate the house Jane Austen died in and places the poet John Keats walked. Winchester also runs a poetry festival (cancelled this year) and holds several fairs.
Derek Jarman was a Film Producer and in the 1980’s he bought Prospect Cottage in Dungenesss and turned it into a haven. With a lifelong interest in gardening he set about making a garden on the beach, not only with flowers but art pieces made from beach finds. The walls of the cottage also contained his art works.
When he died there was the possibility that the cottage might be sold and turned into a holiday cottage. The Art Fund stepped in to save this unique cottage by crowdfunding, and they were lucky encough to raise the funding to buy it.
The Garden Museum in Lambeth has a selection of Jarman’s art works, letters, books, journals and tools on display. It is only a small exhibition, but they have done it very well. They have created a room with a mock up cottage set on pebbles, so when you walk in it feels like you are on the beach. On the walls the cottage is depicted with the surounding scenery, the Nuclear Power Station in the background. Inside the installation are three rooms. One has a film running, a film Jarman took on the beach. Opposite are the other two rooms, the first contains a case with the journals, letters and photos, the other room has desk in from of a window overlooking the pebble beach.
This is indeed a unique cottage, and hopefully, in time, it will be possible to visit the real thing.
Derek Jarman art works
The Garden Museum itself has undergone renovations since I was last there. They have a brand new cafe area around the garden and a learning space for schools and groups. Also here on the ground floor is the history of the church, the former St Marys-at-Lambeth, the oldest church in Lambeth. You can see the walk in baptismal font and there is a tower with over 300 steps from where you get a good view of the River Thames (haven’t been up there yet).
The walk in baptismal font
Upstairs you find gardening through the ages, with tools, photos, paintings and methods, posters and, let’s face it, nostalgia! Also from up here are good views of the stained glass windows. I remember the museum as being bigger, but maybe its the way the space is being used now.
Bill & Ben
While renovation was taking place there was a surprise find. It wasn’t thought the church had a crypt as it was so close to the river and would have flooded. However, when taking up some floor slabs they found lead coffins beneath. It turned out there were five former Archbishop of Canterbury’s buried there, along with others. Around twenty or so coffins have been found. You can read all about it here. There is also a short video about the find.
Here you can see the entrance to the crypt with the Archbishop’s Mitre
The Garden Museum was set up in 1977 to honour John Tradescant (1570-1638), who was the first gardener and plant hunter in British history. He is also buried at the church. The church was due for demolition. Thank goodness it was saved.
A view across the museum from upstairs
You can walk to the museum from Waterloo station (17 mins), or take the tube to Lambeth North.. The museum is opposite Lambeth Bridge.
This was an exhibition I wanted to see, but ran out of time as lockdown hit. I was so thrilled to find it had re-opened and booked a ticket. I went last Thursday, just as the heatwave began. My aim was to get out of London as soon as possible afterwards!
Ink on found paper
Among the Trees is a calming exhibition with a mix of photos, paintings, real wood, installations and multi-media. The gallery was well managed and it was not crowded. The experience was a good one. I particularly enjoyed the films – one is a horizontal full length tree with it branches swaying, with a person standing under it. The other is a three minute time lapse of a trees through the seasons. This was quite mesmerising. My other favourites were the wood and cardboard structure close to the entrance of the exhibition, a tank with trees (not real ones!), the log showing all the rings, the charcoal featured landscape, and the trunk of a tree where most of the middle has been scooped out but in the centre stands the tree as it would have been in its younger days. The branches correspond to the knotty parts on the outside of the bark.
Cardboard and wood
Detail
The Lynching Tree – where black slaves were hung (graves below). Photo – Steve McQueen (12 Years A Slave)
I had thought I’d skip through the gift shop. Hah! no way. There was a lot drool over and I came away with a book, some notelets and a bar of vegan soap!
detail
Charcoal landscape
The heatwave in London is finally breaking. We’ve had six days of temperatures over 30c, with several at 34c and 36c. With these high temperatures I have to admit that I’ve not been out on my travels for a week. If I don’t get thngs done in the early morning, nothing gets done! The house is like an oven by lunchtime and there is nowhere cool here until 6pm, when I venture into the garden. There are storms in the forecast and there was rain this morning. Hopefully, by next week I will be able to face the transport system again and get back to my exploring.
Aubrey Beardlsey was born on 21st August 1872 in Brighton. He was an illustrator and author, highly prolific in his short life. He contracted TB as a child and knew his time was short. He died at the age of just 25 in France, leaving behind an amazing array of artwork.
Edward Burne-Jones (in his studio) much influenced Bearsdley
Bearsley was part of the aesthetic movement which included Oscar Wilde and was influenced by the pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Burne-Jones, whom he met. He was a controversial figure of the art-nouveau era with his dark, perverse and erotic drawings in pen and ink. He illustrated many books (Le Morte d’Arthur, The Rape of Lock and Wilde’s Salome) and posters. Having been sacked from one publication he started his own, The Yellow Book.
I first came across Bearsley when I was in my twenties and I ventured into drawing with ink. A friend showed me her own drawings and I loved the medium. I borrowed a book about Bearsdsey from the library and copied a few of his drawings, along with some Japanese ink drawings (which also influenced Beardsley). Many years later I attended a stunning exhibition of his work and bought the exhibition guide.
One of my favourite pieces
This exhibition closed as lockdown came and I wasn’t sure whether it would ever open again, but it did, and I went along last week. Many of the illustrations I had seen before, but I’d forgotten just how prolific his work was. I guess if you know your life is going to be short, you go for it!
One of Beardsley’s posters
My only grump about the exhibition was the number of people. I did not feel comfortable being in such close proximity to others. People were queuing to see prints, with people spending a long time in front of one, and that caused the room to overfil. There seemed to be no social distancing and no gallery staff in rooms. The only thing managed was the numbers entering the exhibition when we were told the first room was smaller and may seem more crowded. This was a far cry from the Royal Academy where I’d been a couple of weeks earlier. The Tate had only opened that week, so maybe things will improve, but as things were, it spoilt my day and I didn’t spend as long inside as might have otherwise. If there were reduced numbers it didn’t feel like it. It felt like a normal exhibition.
Portrait of Beardlsey over his drawing desk
Thankfully, I have seen most of the art work before, and I had a reduced ticket. If I’d paid full price I wouldn’t have been happy ayt all. I was glad to get outside again and didn’t even visit the shop!
Beardsley influenced many to come – here are some LP covers
Some normality in life came with a visit to the Royal Academy last week. As museums and galleries begin to reopen, tickets are going like hot cakes. I was lucky to be able to book a ticket early on. Already there was limited availability, but I got one! I believe a second batch of tickets will be released shortly, but for now they have all sold out.
Even Joshua Reynolds is entering into safety procedures!
The staff managed the whole operation well. My timed ticket was for 2pm. Arriving a little early I took the opportunity of buying a cup of tea from the refreshment stall outside. Then I queued up. A young lady informed me of the procedure, including the timing (an hour for the exhibition), and soon I was in (hands sanitised, mask on, ticket scanned). Just to say that the toilets are open and a small shop is set up outside the exhibition for purchases of items on the theme of Picassco, and some other items too. The staff are quite happy to go and find any other item you might want from the main shop behind, but access to that is for staff only.
Self portrait
The contrasts of PicassoGuitar
The exhibition featured work throughout Picasso’s working life. One forgets the earlier works, I think, because we tend to see Picasso as a Cubist artist, but Picasso used many styles and experimented using whatever was to hand. His work was constantly evolving, and that makes him fascinating.
More guitars
I loved his early works, but was surprised how much I liked his modern art. I was particularly drawn to his series of ‘guitar’ works using collage with paper cutting, string, and even 3D. Last year I saw his ‘blue period’ art works in an exhibition, but this is far more comprehensive as it spans so many styles and subjects. Picasso even worked on scenery and costume design for a play. It amazed me how prolific he was as an artist, and right to the end of his life he still experimented. I found this a truly inspiring exhibition.
Two bathers on the beach
Both before and after the exhibition I found time to take some photos of London buildings around Piccadilly, Regent Street and so forth. We tend not to look up when in London, but we miss so much if we don’t. London was much quieter than usual, and even the so called ‘rush hour’ just wasn’t a rush. The train was slightly busier, but social distancing was possible with ease.
Admiralty ArchA little art deco near The MallDesigned by John Nash, I believe
Please note that entry to the Picasso exhibition is by pre-booked timed ticket only. You cannot enter the building without a ticket. Please refer to the website for information about booking and safety.
The Holiday and Travel Show sponsored by The Times/Sunday Times is an annual outing, and we have been going for many years. I do mourn the demise of the performance stage, which was dropped a few years ago. It had its own timetable of events with demonstrations of different styles of dancing from Flamenco to Bollywood and everything else in between. It was my favourite part of the show. These days mini performances take part in small areas and don’t seem to be timetabled. You just come across them as you work your way through the exhibition hall. There are, however, still spaces where you can listen to talks about countries, travel and holiday tips, and interviews with famous travellers. One year I got to hear Simon Reeve and one of the chaps from the series Coast.
If you are planning a trip somewhere this is a good place to visit to gather information, and often companies offer discounts for booking a holiday through them on the day.
On the old days we would stagger home with a great many brochures, but these days we limit it. It’s just too temping to go for everything just because it’s there.
One of two piles to read later
The Wanderlust Photo of the Year Gallery is another stop on my walk through the exhibits. They are always breathtaking, and you can vote for your favourite.
Speaking of photography, you can book Photography Masterclasses in advance. They cost £30. Learn how to take those stunning travel shots!
Each year the amount of companies advertising UK holidays has diminished but there are still the Ramblers Association and my personal favourite HF Holidays. I did get chatting to a girl from a company that arranges self guided walking holidays in the UK and abroad and that appealed to me and I intend to do some research on their website.
As well as the different holiday companies there are food stalls (though I am mean and take my own food and drink!), two book stalls and clothing outlets with knock down prices on everything from walking boots and socks to shirts, rucksacks, hats and water purifiers. Everything you might need (or think you might need) is here.
One big change I totally approve of is the ditching of all those plastic bags that are handed out as you pass. They are now reusable cotton tote bags. Brilliant!
The exhibition runs for four days. Today is its first. It finishes on Sunday 2nd February. The nearest tube is Kensington Olympia (Overground) which is just opposite the venue.
Luckily caught some dancing!
I always received a free ticket (which allows one guest). I think I must have gone with a friend originally and then when they had my details on the form they automatically sent me a ticket every year after that. That’s the best way because tickets are otherwise £11.