Thames Path Walk: Henley to Reading

Henley-on-Thames

This was a day walk. Henley is around one hour on the train from Paddington. We arrived around 11.30am. The day was beautiful and warm. Close to Henley, an unsafe bridge meant a diversion through a local farmer’s property. It turned out to be a pleasant diversion, and we were soon back on Thames Path. A short walk and we were in Shiplake, where we stopped to have our packed lunch. We considered going to The Baskerville pub for a cup of tea before setting off again, and this was our big mistake. We didn’t! A regret that would live with us until Reading!

Henley
Henley
The unsafe bridge
Across the field on the diversion
Heading back to the Thames
Across the bridge
Map
The Boat House

The next stretch of the walk took us alongside the railway track and over the line at Shiplake Station (a station on the Twyford to Henley line), and at this point, we temporarily left the Thames. Coming back to it, we were disappointed we couldn’t see St Peter & St Paul Church through the trees. It hides up beyond Shiplake College Rowing Club. It would have meant a walk uphill, and knowing we still had a fair way to walk, we reluctantly didn’t venture up there. However, I can tell you that the poet Tennyson married here and paid the vicar with a poem instead of the fee! Also the author George Orwell grew up in Shiplake.

Damselfly – always wildlife to look out for
Shiplake seemed to go on forever!

This was perhaps the more interesting part of the walk and seemed well spread out.

Rather liked this door!
One of the best views
Still in Shiplake!

The next section of the walk seemed to be a slog. There were no real landmarks to tell us how far we still had to walk, or locate on the map. My map of the route was over several pages of the book, but we seemed to be stuck on one page for an eternity. At this point, we were in desperate need of a cup of tea! We were holding on for Sonning where our books said there was a riverside tea shop.

Walking into Sonning. Is that a postbox on the bridge?!
This is the bridge we walked over
Sonning

We arrived at Sonning Lock where there should have been a tea shop. There wasn’t! The Lockkeepers said it had been closed for two years. My friend asked if they would make us a cuppa, but no. We asked how much further it was to Reading and were told it was about three miles. So we sat on a bench to eat our last snacks and drink our water. We both needed plasters for our feet, and then we set off again dreaming of cups of tea lined up on a bar!

Sonning Lock

The final slog along the Thames seemed daunting. However, it wasn’t long before signs of Reading emerged, like a school rowing club with Reading in its name! This urged us on.

Reading School Rowing Club out on the water

We pressed on as we saw tall building through the trees. We could also taste the tea!

On the outskirts of Reading
Despite being tea deprived, I stopped to take this!
Very close now
Caversham Lock

By the time we reached Caversham Lock, I knew we were close to Reading. We came to a part in the path I remembered from a previous trip to Reading. For a moment, we came off the path and headed for the big Tesco store because they would have a cafe. Our spirits plummeted again when we found the cafe was closed due to lack of staff. Dispirited, we used the customer loos and headed back to the path.

Finally, we saw Reading Bridge. We were there. And the station was just over the road. We finally got our cuppa. Pure nectar!

Reading Bridge

After we recovered, we headed for the train. Our plan had been to use the new Elizabeth Line back into London, and this we did. As I have Freedom Pass, I was able to ride this for free! Nice to have some advantages to getting older! It took around an hour. The fast train probably takes half that time, but this was our dream to ride the Elizabeth Line. I’ve followed every development of Crossrail, now the Elizabeth Line, and this was a good opportunity to travel a whole length of it. The train was less crowded than the fast train (which we saw flying past!). It was a nice relaxing ride back to London.

Happy to be on the Elizabeth Line
Interior of train – not that busy from Reading

Door to door we had walked just under thirteen and half miles, the longest Thames Path walk we’d done. Each section of the path is different. There are boring bits and beautiful parts. We were just glad to reach the end this time. We have our next walk planned, but due to National Rail going on strike, we have already had to change the date. Whether it happens remains to be seen. I have walked this next section before when staying in Reading. It seemed a long walk last time, but it says in our books the walk is seven miles. It should be a doddle after what we’d just walked!

Paddington Station and Elizabeth Line train

Thames Path Walk – Maidenhead to Henley-on-Thames

Maidenhead

This walk was a dummy run for my friend and I to see if we could (a) walk two sections of the Thames Path on consecutive days, and (b) walk carrying all we needed for the trip. We arrived from London late Tuesday afternoon and stayed overnight in a hotel. After breakfast we set off to walk the first leg to Marlow. The distance was around eight miles, though we ended up doing more than that as we had a stop at Cookham to enjoy the village.

The morning began overcast, and occasionally we encountered a few spots of rain. There were some dramatic skies, but we were lucky. While walking, we had no rain. The path was easy and the views beautiful.

The first notable place is Boulter’s Lock. There are some huge houses along this stretch of the Thames Path. Some, we assumed, were hotels or apartments. One was up for sale or rent. Tempting, but I could never afford it!

Boulter’s Lock

Behind the trees on the opposite bank is Cliveden House, the former home of the Astor family. Unfortunately, we were unable to see the house from our side, but the grounds were extensive.

A lovely tree lined section of the river

Shortly afterwards, we came to Cookham where we stopped to enjoy the Stanley Spencer Gallery. I had been before, but not my friend. The gallery is small, but the paintings are stunning. Spencer lived in Cookham for most of his life and all his paintings (apart from some he painted during the war) are set in Cookham. Though not religious, he painted a number of religious scenes. His house is on the main street (blue plaque) and there is a war memorial with his brother’s name on it. Spencer was one of nine children.

An unfinished painting – The Stanley Spencer Gallery

Holy Trinity Church is nearby and inside there is a replica of The Last Supper by Stanley Spencer. Outside in the graveyard is the headstone where the artist was buried. Somehow, I missed this the last time I was here.

Holy Trinity Church
Holy Trinty Church
The grave of Stanley Spencer

Leaving Cookham behind (after a cuppa in a local cafe) we headed towards Bourne End. This meant crossing over the river where shortly be came to Bourne End Marina.

The Bridge
Marina, Bourne End
Peaceful river

Eventually, we came into Marlow, our second overnight stop. We had carried all we needed in our rucksacks and had made it, and without getting wet!

Coming into Marlow
St Luke’s Church, Marlow

After we’d settled into our rooms and had that all important cup of tea and a rest, we went for a stroll before dinner. The sky looked threatening by then, and while we nipped into WHSmith the heavens opened. We stood at the door waiting for the shower to pass, which it did. I unfurled my brolly, but when we came outside, the rain stopped. So we carried on with our exploring before enjoying a tasty, and well-deserved meal.

Marlow is all set for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations
Our hotel was part of the George & Dragon
Best kept village

Before leaving the next morning we took a look at St Luke’s church, and then walked over Marlow Bridge just because it is so impressive!

St Lukes Church
The church is right by the river
Marlow Bridge
Another view from the bank where we set off for Henley

This next section was a particularly beautiful stretch, and we first came across Bisham Church.

Bisham Church
Bisham Church
There are lots of tributaries to the River Thames here, which means lots of little footbridges
Perfect
Temple Lock
Another bridge

This was a day of bridges (three to cross in all), animals (cattle, butterflies and Red Kites). It was an extraordinary day of contrasts, and the sun even came out!

View from the bridge
Hello!
Another bridge!
Hurley Lock
What could be more beautiful?
Goslings enjoying the sunshine – Hurley Riverside Park
Sheep and lambs

Eventually we had to come off the river and walk through a deer park and Culham Court. We were by then dreaming of a sit down and cuppa!

Culham Court

The grounds are extensive to Culham Court and the deer park, but this is private land, so one has to stick to paths. There is a Chapel built on the hill. You can see and read about that here.

This is perhaps my favourite view of this walk.

We were now nearing Aston and the prospect of that well-earned cuppa was upper mind in our thoughts, so it was with great relief to cross the field (above) and come across The Flowerpot Pub.

The Flowerpot
Never have I seen so many stuffed fish behind glass!
Red Kite

We sat in the pub garden and were amazed by Red Kites riding the thermals and darting down. They came close by, and I counted six together at one time. I have never seen them close up before and fell in love with them. Their colouring is beautiful.

Red Kite

Eventually, we dragged ourselves away. We had the last stretch of the Thames to walk. Refreshed, we set off.

Next door to the pub we found a whole selection of birds – chickens, doves, even a couple of peacocks!
One last weir
Ornamental Tower close to Henley
Henley – part of the Regatta
Swan on nest, Henley
Henley, at last!
X marks the spot!
From Henley Bridge

We had arrived! We had a celebration drink at the Leander Rowing Club. My friend cheeky asked if we would be allowed in. Apparently, non-members could drink on the terrace, so in we went! We found a table right by the river and enjoyed the view and the sunshine. We didn’t want to go home. Over twenty twenty miles in two days we had walked, and now it felt like it! When we eventually roused ourselves, it was on stiff legs and I had a blister on the ball of my left foot. But we were happy, and proud of ourselves for this achievement. We are already planning our next walk!

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