historic house – My London+

Brantwood – home of John Ruskin

On the last day of our holiday in the Lake District, we set off to walk to Brantwood from our hotel. We borrowed one of HF Holidays’ self-guided walk maps which was well laid out with instructions as well as the map itself.

The walk was easy and beautiful. We knew the weather forecast was iffy, but we went prepared. It was warm and soon there was sunshine, though looking across the water, mist and dark skies surrounded the mountains. This made for some atmospheric photography.

We were in Swallows & Amazons country. I’d missed out on all this when I was a child (I have now bought a DVD film adaptation of the book, which I’ve yet to watch).

We arrived at Brantwood just as the drizzle started. A good time to go inside the house! Maybe this is a good time to explain about the house. John Ruskin bought and moved here in his 50’s. Ruskin was a well-known art critic and water colourist. He had an interest in geology, encouraged by his father.

Ruskin was a very complicated man brought up by a dominating, over zealous Christian mother. She schooled him and ruled him. He had few friends, but did have contact with his cousins. When he left for University, his mother went with him to rooms nearby. Imagine that!

Later he did the ‘Grand Tour’ and was aware that some buildings were being changed as they were renovated, so Ruskin set about sketching these before they disappeared. He influenced the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and became a great supporter of their art, meeting them about once a month for discussions. Ruskin also lectured and would walk up and down the stage as he spoke. He was even known to dress up as a bird or animal! He was a harsh critic of things he did not approve of, yet his vision was forward thinking. He stood up women and the ordinary man, and thought art should be for everyone, not just the upper classes.

In love, he was not successful. He had a liking for young women, perhaps for their innocence and looks. In his teens he met Effie Gray (a distant cousin), and married her, but the marriage was never consummated. A lot has been written about this relationship (films have been made about it too!). When Ruskin took John Everett Millais with him and Effie to the Scotland, the two young people were attracted to one another. Millais painted Ruskin’s portrait (though most of this was painted in a studio). See painting here.

Effie and John Ruskin divorced, and Effie married John Millais and had a large family. Ruskin never spoke about Effie again, not even in his writings, and he wrote a lot! His final romantic interest was with Rose La Touche in his thrirties She was 17. The relationship lasted 17 years before Rose died. Ruskin never got over this.

Living at the house in Brantwood was his cousin Joan Severn who was Ruskin’s housekeeper until he died in 1900. Joan was married to artist Arthur Severn and they and their children lived in another part of the house.

I can see why Ruskin loved this house, elevated as it is, with views across the water and surrounded by 250 acres of gardens and woodland. Ruskin and Joan created seven distinct gardens stretching from the lake shore and jetty to the fell top. They are lush with springy moss, beautiful flowers and little nooks. Such a peaceful place to sit to have lunch.

The house consists of the hall, dining room, study, drawing room with annexe, the Blue Gallery and the shop. Upstairs is Ruskin’s bedroom where he built a turret, and the ideas room, which was originally a bedroom and where Ruskin slept after his breakdown.

Ruskin suffered from depression and had several breakdowns in his later years. Joan nursed him through them all and stuck with him despite his rages. In his writings, he admitted he could not have managed without Joan.

In the annexe there is a lovely photograph album with photos of Ruskin, Joan and her family, along with visitors to the house. It was a delight to view.

Drawing Room. On the piano is a piece Ruskin composed. I had no idea he had composed music.

Study where Ruskin worked with his secretaries (he had three)

Dining Room. The painting is of Ruskin aged 3

Ruskin’s bedroom. These are copies or prints of Turner’s paintings. The originals were sold.

The Turret. I can just imagine myself sitting here with a book and cuppa!

Ruskin’s carriage. I can just see him coming along those narrow lanes in this!

Even back in Ruskin’s day he was aware things were changing. He was so close to nature that he noticed the little things others didn’t. He was vocal about what he saw, but I expect his warnings fell on deaf ears. Not much has changed!

Lush is the only word I can use about the gardens

The gallery with an exhibition about the author of Swallows & Amazons.

Before we leave the house (there is a lovely cafe here, by the way. It’s in a separate building), I must just tell you about the all important toilets. They are some of the nicest and colourful I have ever seen. Just take a look at the photo below.

We decided to walk down to the jetty. Ferries call in here and we thought we might catch one back to Coniston. To find the jetty, we walked through more of Ruskin’s gardens. Vegetable grow here and countless flowers. It is so pretty.

We were told the Gondola didn’t stop here on our tour, but it seems it stops by request. I don’t know what happened between us booking this holiday and being told the yacht wasn’t stopping, but hey-ho, we caught it for the ten minute trip back to Coniston! And guess who was standing at the jetty at Coniston? Our group and Phil, the leader, waiting for their lake tour! I think that round was to us!

To complete the day (and my pilgrimage, because this is what this day was for me), I wanted to see Ruskin’s grave. The town of Coniston is about a mile from where our hotel is, and this was the first time we had been down here. I know there is a Ruskin Museum, but we never made it there. But we did find Ruskin’s grave and the grave of Donald Campbell who died on Coniston Water trying to break the world water speed.

John Ruskin’s grave, St Andrew’s Church, Coniston

Grave of Douglas Campbell is in the New Graveyard off the main road

This was terrific day. I would happily visit the house again if I’m back that way. The house and gardens were beyond my expectations and I was thrilled to have finally seen where John Ruskin lived in later life. I hope you have enjoyed it too.

Fulham Palace House & Gardens

The back of Fulham Palace from the garden

Getting around Britain is becoming rather difficult right now as last week there was a national rail strike (three days and disruptions on other days). One of those days coincided with a London tube strike. I could see my trips being curtailed. However, I had enough of not being able to go anywhere during lockdown, and I was not to be beaten. I began looking at options that I could get to by bus.

Although I have been to Fulham Palace before, and the gardens a few times, I had not been inside the house for a good number of years. The day was hot and sunny, and the bus got caught up in a traffic jam just outside Putney, though I never did find out what the problem was. Still, I got there. I exited the bus at Putney Pier and walked over the bridge. From the bridge there is a nice view of All Saints Church, Fulham which stands next to the Palace. When I reached the church I found the door open. I don’t believe I’ve ever been inside before, so I went to take a look.

On to the main event! Fulham Palace was acquired in AD 704 as a residence for the Bishops of London. The last Bishop to live there was Robert Stopford who retired in 1973. The building has 70 rooms and was lived in by the Bishop, his family and servants. The Bishop would run the Diocese of London from there, entertain dignitaries and receive candidates for ordination. In 1975 the Palace and garden was leased by the Church Commissioners to Hammersmith & Fulham Council for 100 years. Since 2011 it has been run by a charitable trust(Fulham Palace Trust) who run the site and carry out restoration.

On entering the palace you cross over the former moat. To left is the porter’s lodge (back to its original pink!) and to the right is the coachhouse. At one time the River Thames had inlets right up to the garden walls.

The moat with the coachhouse nearest and the porter’s lodge behind

The palace and gardens are free to enter. There is a small shop, the all important toilets and a cafe overlooking the gardens. The museum part of the house has been updated since my first visit and has lots of interesting facts and displays about the history, archaeological finds on the site and details about the former Bishops. There is a short video at the beginning of the tour, and another at the end.

Approaching the palace. Through the arch is the courtyard

Not all the rooms are open to the public. Some are obviously offices. The rooms available to view are all on the ground floor. You need a plan as there are a few coridoors and it took me a while to find the chapel (even with a plan!).

Bishop Compton was particularly interested in plant collecting and brought in many specimens to the palace gardens (Museum)

Collect your own – I need no persuading!

The Great Hall – the oldest room in the building. Queen Elizabeth dined here in 1588 and 1600.

The rooms are mainly empty. The above photo shows the only things in this room. The photos in the guide show what these rooms would have looked like, but sadly they do look rather stark now.

And so into the gardens. The photo below is my favourite. Walking through a gate you enter the walled garden and the first thing you see are these greenhouses, some of which are accessible.

The market garden stall. Buy plants and veg from the gardens

The Bisghop’s Seat! Children love this (as do childlike adults!)

The courtyard. The chapel is to the right (out of the picture)

The cafe overlooks the gardens and has long windows so you can admire the view. The tables outside were busy today, but as all the tables with shade had already been taken, I decided to park myself inside, though I did have to suffer jazz music! The food is very good though.

I had just finished lunch and was on my way to view the chapel when the fire alarm went off. Gosh it was loud! People headed out into the courtyard. As we walked across I looked up and saw smoke coming out of one open window and what smelled like burnt toast. The brigade arrived and we waited for the all clear. It came very soon (yes, I think it was a toaster!)

I then went in search of the chapel. I realised I had seen this before (I’d convinced myself we’d not found it before). It has stunning painted walls, a beautiful mosaic and stained glass windows.

It’s a shame there aren’t more rooms open as the upstairs looks interesting (the guide book has some photos), but the house and gardens are lovely. There are plenty of benches in the gardens to sit and just enjoy the peace.

I’m sure I shall return again soon, to sit in the gardens if nothing else.

Chartwell: Home of Sir Winston Churchill

Now, I must admit, I have never been a big fan of Churchill. I’ve never forgiven him for ruining a whole day due to his state funeral. I was coming up to ten years old, and all I remember of that day is sombre music on the radio, and there was nothing, I mean nothing else to do. So depressing! The world stopped, and I thought, who is this man that can do this?

Okay, I’ve got that out of my system, but as a nearly ten year old, I didn’t really understand (or want to know) who this man was, but that day haunted me, and I’ve obviously never got over it! Second thing – I only associated Churchill with war, which seemed to obsess my parents’ generation. I realise now, of course, how much it affected them. There was still rationing when my brother was born. When the air-raid siren on top of the local police station was tested (which I remember as a child), how my mum hated it. Thirdly, I have been to Chartwell before with my mum and dad, many years ago, but I barely remember it, and I wonder if that too has been blotted out of my mind due to my prejudice against him! I remember standing in the garden, and that’s all. So, why, you might ask, did I recently visit? Well, a friend was keen, and I never refuse a day out!

There is actually a well – the Chart Well!

Has my opinion changed? I have become more sympathetic, and I love the fact that he was such a family man. I’m never going to be his biggest fan, but I can live with it! Maybe I have laid the ghost to rest.

The front of the house isn’t as impressive as the side or back.

Chartwell had been owned by the Churchill family since 1922. It was only in 1964, a year before he died, that he moved to his flat in London, due to ill health. You can read more about Churchill here. Of course, there is more to Churchill than just war. He was Prime Minister. I learned that he switched political parties, he suffered from depression and the only thing to help with that was painting. And he was a family man. In the gardens is a cute brick built playhouse he had built for his children.

The brick built playhouse in the gardens

Planting is still not complete. During lockdown, The National Trust lost money and could not afford plants, so there are still bare beds in some places.

The house has beautiful rooms, and the views are spectacular. Who ever said Kent is flat? There are some very hilly parts to Kent. I expected very masculine rooms where Churchill worked and plotted the way war was going, but I was surprised by how homely it all felt. It wasn’t all leather and wood! I also marvelled at how industrious Churchill was – how many books he wrote and how many pictures he painted. How did he have time?

There is a museum with a lot about Churchill’s life, especially his the military life and all the organisations he was a member of. There is a whole case of uniforms and, of course, his cigars.

Outside the gardens is Churchill’s studio. At first he had only a small studio, part of the workmen’s cottages. He put windows on the roof to add more light. Now this is the exhibition space for his many paintings. Churchill did not start to paint until he was 41. Encouraged by his sister-in-law, it became a lifelong hobby, and he took his box of paints and canvasses with him when abroad. Some of the paintings are unfinished, like professional artist’s sketches, and sometimes he went back and started again. Here you can compare the unfinished with the finished. They are remarkable paintings. Churchill never painted for profit or to display. This was something he did for himself. Around the garden and grounds there are seats placed where Churchill would sit to paint. And what views there are to paint at Chartwell.

The studio – everything here is Churchill’s

The National Trust acquired Chartwell eighteen years after Churchill’s death. These days there is a super cafe, National Trust Shop, secondhand bookshop and the all important toilets. There are lovely walks you can take into the woodlands. My friend and I took one of these paths and came across swathes of bluebells. Looking back at the house from there, you can see why Churchill loved this place so much.

A view of the house from across the lake

I loved the house and studio, and the surrounding gardens and countryside are beautiful. The house has a lovely feel about it, a good atmosphere, homely. This must have been a place to relax in away from London and all politics and war for Churchill. A place of family, and his beloved painting. We heard a talk in the studio about Churchill’s art, and he was friends with Sir William Nicholson (father of Ben Nicholson who worked with and married Barbara Hepworth). In fact, Sir William was Churchill’s mentor, but when Nicholson suggested using a more muted palette, Churchill decided to stick with what he liked. I admire him for that. You can see both artists’ pictures of the view of the swimming pool – I much prefer Churchill’s! It made me smile because Sir William’s son, Ben did the same with ‘primitive’ artist Alfred Wallis, but Wallis also went his own way!