Holborn – My London+

St Etheldreda’s. Ely Place

I set out with a vague idea of a route, but at least I had one specific place to visit. Flicking through London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts, I came across St Etheldreda’s, Farringdon. It was open on a Mondon (yay!) and had a crypt. The photos of it (and a look on their website) convinced me I must see it.

The church is off Ely Place, a gated cul-de-sac, off Holborn Circus and the nearest tube station is Chancery Lane. The church dates from 1252 and is the only Pre-Reformation church still in Catholic use. We get the term ‘night on the tiles’ from the tiled cloister as the Bishop gave a five-day party here for King Henry VIII, and it was here that the King discussed divorce from Catherine of Aragon with Archbishop Cranmer.

Ely Place

I had the whole of the church to myself. The large stained glass window just inside the main church was so huge that I couldn’t stand back far enough to frame the whole thing in my camera (I only had my mobile and it doesn’t have a wide-angle lens). The church has some wonderful stained glass windows.

The Nave

Altar window

Looking back

I walked down to The Crypt, which was very dimly lit. It seemed to be a place for storage and a sometimes cafe, maybe a performance space. However, there were some modern stained glass windows and statues.

In the crypt

A view from the steps coming out of the church towards the main entrance and the crypt to the left.

From St Etheldreda’s, I noticed a couple of other churches on the other side of Holborn Circus. I thought I’d see if they were open. The first was St Andrew, Holborn, an Anglican Church worshipping in the Catholic Style (High Anglican!). It also features (as I was later to discover) in London’s 100 Best Churches.

This is a very light church, very open and spacious, with a glorious ceiling. A gallery surrounds the nave. The church claims to have had people worshipping on the site for over 1,000 years. There is a wonderful timeline history on the website. Do take a look.

What stood out for me was the small altar with mother and child with the gold surround. Astonishing.

The nave with gallery.

The organ loft

This church holds the tomb of Thomas Coram, the founder of The Foundling Hospital, which I have visited in the past.

The tomb of Thomas Coram

This art work is over the door leading into the church.

Coming out of the church I walked and crossed Holborn Viaduct.

View from Holborn Viaduct

I don’t know much about architecture, though I studied a bit of Roman and Greek, which there is a lot of in London as it is considered classic. Just look at all the columns in London’s old buildings. However, new designs can sometimes be very photogenic, like the one in the photo above.

The final church I visited was Holy Sepulchre. I don’t know why this church isn’t featured in London’s 100 Best Churches, because I think it should.

Holy Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct.

I was delighted to find out it is the musicians’ church, and has a dedicated Musicians’ Chapel. I spent some time in there enjoying the surroundings and the wonderful kneelers, each one representing a different composer.

The chapel also holds the ashes of Sir Henry Wood. He learned to play organ here before going on to study at the Royal Academy of Music. His father sang tenor in the choir. There is a window dedicated to Sir Henry Wood and a memorial book to musicians.

Musicians’ Chapel

Organ loft

Here was another interesting detail. There is a replica of the bell beside this plaque, but there was so much reflection I couldn’t take a photo of it.

The Royal Fusiliers Chapel (City of London Regiment)

Font

My aim now was to wander down to Paternoster Square, and as I walked I realised I’d been here before a couple of times. Greyfriars sits close to St Paul’s. What remains of the Greyfriats has been turned into a pocket garden.

Greyfriars

I had come to Paternoster Square where I wanted to see a fairly new art work, The Wild Table of Love. I’m sure I’ve read this is a temporary installation, but I may be wrong about this. However, it was great to see it, and a good excuse to end my visit in this place.

Around the edge of the square there are restaurants and cafes. I took a break at Pret before taking in the rest of the square.

This is the installation I had come to see.

St Paul’s Cathedral

I nipped into the Salvation Arm Cafe by the Millennium Bridge for a cup of tea and a cookie.

Crossing the Millennium Bridge I was now going to walk back to Waterloo along Southbank.

Here you can see The Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.

This is one of my favourite spots to take a photo. I never tire of this view across the bridge.

This really speaks to me.

Outside the Hayward Gallery, Southbank

I really enjoyed this day out. I found some marvelous churches I had not set out to see and learned new things. Sometimes keeping plans loose can lead you into some very interesting places. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.

It has been many years since I last explored Covent Garden, and it turned out that the area had much more to offer than I first realised. It’s great when you can find new and exciting things in your own home city.

As always (well, mostly) my walk began by the River Thames. I’d left it last in Henley, and here I was back in London, the part of the river I know most. Let me take you now on a journey through markets, an actors’ church, the world of Freemasonry and the land of law.

Crossing over Waterloo Bridge, I turned onto The Strand and then Aldwych, coming off at Drury Lane and working my way into Covent Garden from that direction.

A famous hotel on my way to Covent Garden

Toyed with the idea of visiting The London Transport Museum, but I’d not booked and decided I wanted to explore other things today.

Pollocks Theatre Toy Shop, Covent Garden

I came across to Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, known as the actors church. The church is hidden away on the other side of the outside courtyard.

I set off towards Neal Street, a very pretty road. I particularly wanted to find Neal’s Yard, which I remember from many years back. I don’t think I had been to Neal’s Yard since I was in my 20’s!

This area is part of Seven Dials and you can read about its history here, along with the theatres and markets, shops and even a map.

Neal’s Yard. Can there be a more pretty place?

Back on to Neal Street, I found The Astrology Shop, which was worth a look at.

Off on my walk again, I’d seen a tall building in the distance, and I wanted to check it out. It looked church-like. On the noticeboard it said cafe, and where there is a cafe there are toilets (usually). This looked promising. I sought out the entrance and was surprised to find myself outside The Museum of Freemasonry. The building is open to all, and is free. So, I thought, why not? I might learn something! It was actually an astounding building with an informative museum, library, huge shop (all upstairs), and on the ground floor is the cafe, and yes, there are toilets!

The outside of Freemason’s Hall on Great Queen Street

I think I should have written a blog post just about the Freemason’s Museum, for it is a splendid place, and really worth a look. I knew very little about Freemasons other than the jokes about dodgy handshakes and rolled-up trouser legs! It seems they can take the mickey out of themselves (always a good sign!). Staff were nice and helpful, though I did find myself doing ‘spot the freemason’! Down in the cafe (very reasonably priced menu and drinks and worth going in just for the cafe – subsidised?) there were some very well dressed people (was I underdressed?).

Well-stocked shop. Yes, I did buy a book (not this one) with a general overview of history and basic facts about the Freemasons

Leaving Freemason’s Hall behind, I set off for Lincoln’s Inn, a place I used to visit from time to time when I was a teenager. One of my jobs was delivering Briefs to Counsel (or Advice to Counsel). This involved hand delivering (I wonder if that still happens?) to Barrister’s Chambers. I still remember the buildings – the clerks in dark offices, the pigeonholes, the rooms stuffed with documents bound in pink ribbon. Much has changed since those days. I expect everything goes by email now. Back in those times, documents used to be typed on parchment paper (Wills and Leases). It took two people to check for mistakes (one reading the other with the draft), and the documents were sewn up. For me (who hated sewing, and still do), sewing documents was actually something I quite liked. Documents were sewn in green tape (and once or twice even sealed with wax!). Documents going to Counsel where bound together with pink tape. The names of the squares now came back to me – Stone Buildings, New Square. However, there was another surprise – Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, which luckily was open. What a magnificence place!

For a little about the history and buildings do read this.

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel – I was literary gobsmacked at this place

Barristers’ Chambers with a list of their names (several work in the same building)

They go in for tall and narrow here! Fleet Street

From Fleet Street I entered the Strand and eventually came back on to the River Thames on the north bank at Victoria Embankment. This had been a fantastic walk. A bit of a walk down memory lane for me, and with surprising finds. Highlights for me were the Freemason’s Hall, Lincoln’s Inn Chapel and the wonder of those buildings in Lincoln’s Inn. How regal! I hope you have enjoyed the journey too.

Tag: Holborn

Three London Churches, a square and a river

Covent Garden, Museum of Freemasonry, Lincoln’s Inn & Fleet Street