On the last day of our holiday in the Lake District, we set off to walk to Brantwood from our hotel. We borrowed one of HF Holidays’ self-guided walk maps which was well laid out with instructions as well as the map itself.
The walk was easy and beautiful. We knew the weather forecast was iffy, but we went prepared. It was warm and soon there was sunshine, though looking across the water, mist and dark skies surrounded the mountains. This made for some atmospheric photography.
We were in Swallows & Amazons country. I’d missed out on all this when I was a child (I have now bought a DVD film adaptation of the book, which I’ve yet to watch).
We arrived at Brantwood just as the drizzle started. A good time to go inside the house! Maybe this is a good time to explain about the house. John Ruskin bought and moved here in his 50’s. Ruskin was a well-known art critic and water colourist. He had an interest in geology, encouraged by his father.
Ruskin was a very complicated man brought up by a dominating, over zealous Christian mother. She schooled him and ruled him. He had few friends, but did have contact with his cousins. When he left for University, his mother went with him to rooms nearby. Imagine that!
Later he did the ‘Grand Tour’ and was aware that some buildings were being changed as they were renovated, so Ruskin set about sketching these before they disappeared. He influenced the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and became a great supporter of their art, meeting them about once a month for discussions. Ruskin also lectured and would walk up and down the stage as he spoke. He was even known to dress up as a bird or animal! He was a harsh critic of things he did not approve of, yet his vision was forward thinking. He stood up women and the ordinary man, and thought art should be for everyone, not just the upper classes.
In love, he was not successful. He had a liking for young women, perhaps for their innocence and looks. In his teens he met Effie Gray (a distant cousin), and married her, but the marriage was never consummated. A lot has been written about this relationship (films have been made about it too!). When Ruskin took John Everett Millais with him and Effie to the Scotland, the two young people were attracted to one another. Millais painted Ruskin’s portrait (though most of this was painted in a studio). See painting here.
Effie and John Ruskin divorced, and Effie married John Millais and had a large family. Ruskin never spoke about Effie again, not even in his writings, and he wrote a lot! His final romantic interest was with Rose La Touche in his thrirties She was 17. The relationship lasted 17 years before Rose died. Ruskin never got over this.
Living at the house in Brantwood was his cousin Joan Severn who was Ruskin’s housekeeper until he died in 1900. Joan was married to artist Arthur Severn and they and their children lived in another part of the house.
I can see why Ruskin loved this house, elevated as it is, with views across the water and surrounded by 250 acres of gardens and woodland. Ruskin and Joan created seven distinct gardens stretching from the lake shore and jetty to the fell top. They are lush with springy moss, beautiful flowers and little nooks. Such a peaceful place to sit to have lunch.
The house consists of the hall, dining room, study, drawing room with annexe, the Blue Gallery and the shop. Upstairs is Ruskin’s bedroom where he built a turret, and the ideas room, which was originally a bedroom and where Ruskin slept after his breakdown.
Ruskin suffered from depression and had several breakdowns in his later years. Joan nursed him through them all and stuck with him despite his rages. In his writings, he admitted he could not have managed without Joan.
In the annexe there is a lovely photograph album with photos of Ruskin, Joan and her family, along with visitors to the house. It was a delight to view.
Before we leave the house (there is a lovely cafe here, by the way. It’s in a separate building), I must just tell you about the all important toilets. They are some of the nicest and colourful I have ever seen. Just take a look at the photo below.
We decided to walk down to the jetty. Ferries call in here and we thought we might catch one back to Coniston. To find the jetty, we walked through more of Ruskin’s gardens. Vegetable grow here and countless flowers. It is so pretty.
We were told the Gondola didn’t stop here on our tour, but it seems it stops by request. I don’t know what happened between us booking this holiday and being told the yacht wasn’t stopping, but hey-ho, we caught it for the ten minute trip back to Coniston! And guess who was standing at the jetty at Coniston? Our group and Phil, the leader, waiting for their lake tour! I think that round was to us!
To complete the day (and my pilgrimage, because this is what this day was for me), I wanted to see Ruskin’s grave. The town of Coniston is about a mile from where our hotel is, and this was the first time we had been down here. I know there is a Ruskin Museum, but we never made it there. But we did find Ruskin’s grave and the grave of Donald Campbell who died on Coniston Water trying to break the world water speed.
This was terrific day. I would happily visit the house again if I’m back that way. The house and gardens were beyond my expectations and I was thrilled to have finally seen where John Ruskin lived in later life. I hope you have enjoyed it too.
My London+ 