This is the last part of my trip away to Limehouse. Coming home on the Friday I decided to fit in another short walk. Having looked at a map of what’s nearby on my journey home, I found two gardens near Aldgate East tube station that might be worth a look. Unfortunately, one of the gardens (Four Seasons) was closed as the trees were being lopped. I had a look through the railings and it did look good, but that will have to be a visit another time.
Whitechapel and Aldgate were known as the silk quarter of London. Sadly, when you Google ‘silk quarter’ now you get a lot of companies advertising their new developments. The whole area is a mass of new high-rise apartments and squares. Finding historical facts was low down on the list for searches. However, I did find a survey you might be interested in reading. It’s quite long, but informative. I also found directions for a walk in the area.
Chaucer Gardens are off Alie Street and is a quiet oasis in the bustle of London, though surrounded by tall buildings.
Chaucer Gardens
There is so much more to see, I feel. If I’d I had more time, I’d have got off the tube at Whitechapel and walked from there. Next time! The back roads were interesting with old buildings, a hint of what used to be there. I found a wonderful cafe cum shop off one of the main roads for a hot chocolate and comfort break. Maybe next time the Four Seasons gardens will be open too.
In Running Horse Square
Have a read of this article about Browne & Eagle Ltd.
It was quite a cloudy and windy start to the day with the prospect of rain, so wearing my waterproof I set off, though a small detour was in order first. St Anne’s Church opened that day (Thursday), and I wanted to see inside before I went off to the station.
Limehouse Basin with Canary Wharf in the background
Our Lady Immaculate & St Frederick.
Before reaching my destination church, I found this one and then promptly couldn’t find St Anne’s, even though I’d walked there the day before!
I guess this is Fred!
As it happened I wasn’t far from the church, and further along the road I came in by a different entrance to the one I’d used before. The daffodils were looking lovely in the gardens.
St Anne’s Church, Limehouse
Inside St Anne’s
Detail of ceiling
Stratford
After visiting the church, I walked back to Limehouse DLR and caught the train to Poplar where I changed to another DLR line to take me Stratford for the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (see map on link). A lot has changed since I was last here in 2012. Back then, we were a heave of excited Olympic enthusiasts. I came here with one of my sons and his friends, who was staying with us, to watch hockey. We came twice, both times for hockey, as it was all I could get tickets for. I remember going online when as soon as the website opened (getting up early for this unique moment in history) and tearing my hair out as event after event was sold out, and then the website crashed! Finally, we got our hockey tickets and tickets for a football match at Wembley. Phew! The excitement of being here then was up there with the best things in life. We were here on Super Saturday, which was wonderful. We could see on the big screen what was going on with Mo Farah, even though we weren’t in the main stadium. It was my biggest disappointment that I couldn’t get tickets inside the stadium for athletics, as I’ve loved watching them on TV since I was a teenager. But at least we were here to soak up the atmosphere. Back home I watched everything, even things I wouldn’t normally watch! I was in London the day the Olympic torch came through along the South Bank, and I was in Kingston to watch both the Olympic torch relay and the Olympic cycling road race! I think you could say, I was well into it!
Passing through Westfield on the way to the park
So to be here again brought back memories of that first time walking across the bridge from Westfield’s Shopping Centre and getting my first sight of the Olympic Stadium, now West Ham United Football Stadium. It was much quieter, this day and work was still going on the East Bank, but the gardens were beautiful and there were plenty of places to stop for a hot drink or snack.
The Aquatic Centre
Crossing the bridge with the former Olympic Stadium ahead
So peaceful today
Another view of the stadium
Work is still going on in the next building phase of East Bank. Here is a new V&A, a building for the BBC and Sadler’s Wells.
Under a bridge over the River Lea is some rather nice art by this lady.
Art by Madge Gill
Orbital. No, I’ve not been down it!
Paralymnpics emblem
The further away from the main area you get, the more wild it seems. I love this part of the park.
London Blossom Garden is a new addition since Covid to remember those who died during the pandemic.
The Blossom Garden
The Velo Park where all the cycling took place
Wild and windy
Something unexpected!
The Olympic Bell
It was a lovely day out at the Olympic Park, reliving old memories and seeing new things. I had a cup of tea in a cafe run not-for-profit. Everything is ploughed into helping homeless people and training for jobs. Very community based.
I arrived back at my accommodation just in time that afternoon, as the rain began and carried on all night! But I was in the dry, except when I had to skip across the gardens to the chapel for the concert in the evening. (see previous post)
The final part of this trip will be posted on Easter Monday. Have a lovely Easter everyone. See you next week. Thank you for reading.
Last week I spent two nights in Limehouse at The Royal Foundation of St Katherine’s, a Retreat House and B&B. I stayed there once before a few years before Covid in order to walk part of the Regent’s Canal and Limehouse Cut. This time my main reason for staying was to see a singing duo, Ben and Dom, perform in the chapel at the Retreat House. I have seen them perform live before and their harmonies blend so well. I sing in a choir and these two chaps are former choir leaders of that choir. Since leaving, a few of us have followed their careers. They lead other choirs, sing with other groups and write and sing together. So here is my promo! Have a look at this video.
So, that’s what I was doing in Limehouse. However, whenever I go away, I’m always looking for new walks. I packed everything I needed into a rucksack and set off. Before arriving in Limehouse, I took a slight detour to Shadwell where I would walk to Wapping.
A little info about St Katherine’s
My first stop was Cable Street mural. This commemorates the time when Sir Oswald Mosley and his Fascists intended to march through Shadwell. The residents, Jews and Irish Catholic banded together and set up barriers to stop them. Fighting broke out between them and the police, and Mosley was asked to cancel the event.
Cable Street mural, Shadwell
Not far from there is St George-in-the-East church, built in 1723, but badly damaged in the Blitz. Only the outer walls and tower survive.
St George-in-the-East
The gravestones, with an unusual one at the end. See below.
Inside the church
The tower
Walking further down towards the Thames, I came to Tobacco Dock, built between 1811 and 1813 and used to store tobacco, tea and spices. When it was closed, the dock was converted into a shopping centre, but that too has gone, and it is mainly empty now. I was unable to find a way in through gates mentioned in the guide book, and wonder if this is due to the book being slightly out of date. There are apartment blocks surrounding it now, but I saw a fountain through one gate.
Tobacco Dock
A nod to the past – Tobacco Dock
And then a couple of interesting sights nearby:
This pub was supposed to have been given to the artist, Turner!
There is no church of St John’s in Wapping now (well, not this one). Only the churchyard remains. However, there is evidence of the charity attached to the old church over the road from the churchyard.
St John’s Churchyard
I was now close to the Thames and old dock warehouses (converted into apartments) came into view.
Oliver’s Wharf, Wapping
And here we are at Wapping Old Stairs beside the pub, The Town of Ramsgate. At low tide you can go down onto the shore, but be careful, the steps are green and slimy, making them slippery. To left of the stairs is Execution Dock, used for 400 years and where those convicted of piracy were executed and left for three full tides.
I then took the Overground back to Shadwell where I changed to the DLR for one stop to Limehouse for my stay. Above is a photo of the gardens at St Katherine’s, and the chapel is where the big windows are to the left. Once I unpacked, I went to the Yurt Cafe for a lovely lunch of lentil stew and rice. The Yurt Cafe is part of The Precinct and outreach to the community in Limehouse by the Royal Foundation of St Katherine’s. The food is good!
The Yurt Cafe
After lunch. I took a stroll around Limehouse Basin and the area in general.
Limehouse Basin
River Thames, and to the right is Gordon Ramsey’s restaurant.
Thames Path fingerposts
The Grapes on Narrow Street is owned in partnership with actor Sir Ian McKellen
Narrow Street, Limehouse.
Herring Gull
Ropemakers Fields
Banstand – Ropemakers Fields
Urban Limehouse
Lock at Limehouse
Limehouse
Typical older housing, Limehouse
Old water pressure tower. This used to regulate the water for the cranes, swing bridges and locks in Limehouse Basin.
This was the end of my first day. In the next blog I will be visiting the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in Stratford to relive old memories!
It’s not often you get to see where an ancestor worked, but for my friend, this is what happened when we went to see the Churchill War Rooms last week. My friend’s aunt worked in the typing pool here, and she told how her aunt and her own mother were invited to an event here. A car was sent for them and they laughed like schoolgirls. They had a wonderful day. We came across the aunt in one of the displays. A letter she had typed which had error in it, she kept, and this is can ben seen along with her photo. She was also interviewed and is part of a video running in the museum. My friend had long known about some of this, but this was the first time she had been here. I think it made her day!
The chemical toilet!
The first place you see on entering is the Cabinet Room (see top photo), where all the meetings took place. Soon we were walking through corridors and saw the old wooden steps leading down to the sleeping quarters. Of course, my usual query came up….where were the toilets? We came across an old chemical toilet in one of the displays.
Churchill hated noise, apparently, so the Remington typewriters had to be adapted to ‘noiseless’. Again, a couple are on display.
The noiseless typewriter
The museum, which kind of splits the ‘rooms’ in half is rather confusing. Although there is a map as you enter, it doesn’t appear logical, so we ended up walking around it out of order. But here we found out about Churchill’s early life, military service and his going into politics. There is a video about his dealings with the Middle East, and lots of information, short videos and objects on display.
Churchill’s greatcoat – museum
On entering each person receives an audio guide to enhance the visit. While I used it in most of the ‘rooms’, I didn’t really bother in the museum. There is a lot of information available on the website, should you wish to check out things in more detail. While I took quite a lot of photos, I didn’t always note which rooms, but those I did note, are labelled here.
Churchill’s hats
Churchill did many good things in his time, and I was surprised just how much, despite being accused of going against his class. Well, good for him!
Things Churchill instigated or tried to instigate.
Churchill’s pistol
The original door to number 10 Downing Street. (See photo below for explanation)
Sorry about fuzzy photo!
Churchill loved painting, and here are a few of his things. If you read my post about my visit to Chartwell in Kent last year (the Churchill family home), you will see more about that. He took his artist’s material with him when he went abroad.
Downstairs were the living/sleeping quarters. Here is the room shared by Churchill’s detectives.
Churchill’s dining room.
Churchill’s wife’s bedroom
The kitchen
One of the corridors
Radio Room
Typing Pool
The sick room
The Map Room
Map Room
Map Room – look at all those telephones!
Map Room – can you see the pipes hanging down? They are used to communicate with others.
Churchill’s bedroom
There is masses to see here and amazing to think all these rooms lay under London on several layers. You need a couple of hours to take it all in. Well worth a visit.
This blog post is hot off the press as I only walked it this morning. The day was bright but cold. Enough to freeze my fingers. The walk, from the AA book Walking London, begins at Barnes Station and ends at Barnes Bridge Station. The duration of the walk is about five and half miles.
The first stopping point was Marc Bolan‘s memorial off Queen’s Ride. I’d wanted to visit for years, as being a bit of a T Rex fan back in the 70’s. I remember it was quite a shock when he died in a car crash on this road. So this was a bit of a pilgrimage for me.
The memorial is bigger than I imagined. Many fan pictures are left here. Obviously this is still well used. I would think there would be a gathering on important days, like his birthday or the anniversay of his death. I was pleased to finally see it.
The instructions for the first part of this walk were not that helpful, but to be fair it wasn’t an easy route across the common with things like ‘look for the low growing trees, and the lone bush.’ We did find Barnes old cemetery, but more with the help of the roads crossing the common. We didn’t necessarily go the way that was indicated, only because it was confusing from the description. Once at the cemetery the walk became easier to follow.
Barnes Cemetery
I had been through part of the cemetery some years ago on a walk following the route of Beverley Brook, but this was a different part. There is something about old graveyards that I like. Far from feeling eerie (as mentioned in the book), I find it peaceful.
A grave of note is Alexander Joseph Finberg, an author and artist. I could not find a photgraph of him online, or much detail about him, though there are plenty of sites with some detail.
Here is a map of the Beverly Brook walk which croses Barnes Common and the cemetery before flowing into the River Thames.
And here is Beverley Brook.
And another map!
Barnes Pond
We stopped by the pond and had a hot drink and cake at Barnes Theatre. A chance to refuel and get warm before the last part of the walk. We set off again and took a look at Milbourne House once owned by Henry Fielding, author of Tom Jones. This is the oldest building in Barnes, some of which dates from the 1400’s. We then headed down to the Thames Path.
Low tide at Barnes
Barnes Bridge
Along The Terrace opposite the River Thames we came across two more houses with blue plaques (which for some reason were not mentioned in the guide book). The first is the house of Gustav Holst, composer. He was the first classical composer whose work I ever really heard and liked. I was about ten at the time. The piece I heard was Jupiter from The Planets. Later I bought the LP. He has hall named after him at Morley College in Lambeth (I’ve been inside it). He either taught or played there.
Gustav Holts house
The next house, a little further down the road, was once where Dame Ninette De Valois, founder of the Royal Ballet, lived. (see below)
Now for something quite extraordinary, and worth this walk alone. In the churchyard of St Mary Magdalen is the tomb of Sir Richard Burton. No, not the actor, but the Victorian explorer and linguist. The stone tomb is a replica of a Bedouin tent and is adorned with Islamic crescents and moons. And, as if that isn’t enough, if you go round the back of the tomb there is a ladder up which you can view from the top, through the window, the coffins of Burton and his wife. This is something not to be missed.
The tomb stands 12ft square by 18ft high.
The ladder. Go on, I know you want to look. Come with me!
The two coffins
The coffins are surrounded by artifacts such as lamps and helmets.
Other graves in the churchyard
The final stop was St Mary the Virgin church, which luckily was open. It has a lovely stone arch and on the first staturday of the month you can go up the bell tower.
The archway
The church of St Mary the Virgin, Barnes
Inside the church
Stained glass window
Over the main doors
If you are into fish dining, Rick Stein has a restuarant close to the river.
And finally something for you to go ‘Ahh’ about. Three baby Egyptian ducks on the steps by the River Thames.
This was one of the strangest walks I’ve ever done, but great fun. Yes, we nearly got lost at the start of the walk, but we made it and was well worth going out on a cold, cold day.
It’s been another week of catching up with friends, so there’s been more talking over cups of tea in cafes than walking, but one of the catch-ups was in London. We met at Victoria station, and because we were both cold and hungry, we quickly went to Wetherspoons inside the station for lunch!
Having warmed up, we set off in the direction of Buckingham Palace and through Green Park. Once in St James Park we soon found our way to the big cafe there and indulged in hot drinks and cake. I’m not sure I walked off all the calories after the vegan donut, but I tried my best when I said goodbye to my friend at Charing Cross station and headed over the Thames towards Waterloo.
St James Park
Heron
The Super Sewer work is going on all along the Thames, so parts of the Thames Path are inaccessible. This is badly needed, but I’ll be glad when the work is done.
Then there was the trip to Richmond Park yesterday with my son and his puppy. It was a dull, grey day, and all the photos look the same…dull! But at least we were in fresh air and we saw a Jay and Woodpecker. There were lots of parakeets too. Enjoy the photos.
It seems ages ago since I bought tickets for this event, yet it came round quickly in the end. It’s still the season of light shows, and having been knocked out by one I attended in Winchester Cathedral last year, I thought I’d do another, but in London. It is by the same people and they take their light show all over the place. It was in St Albans at one time.
The night was surprisingly warm. I’d booked the tickets for the first slot on the first night, so no hanging around. Because St Martin’s is a smaller venue than some, the lights began outside the building to the side (where you could get a free peek if you’d not got tickets). You could also see through the windows and the display flitting across the church.
After seeing the lights outside, we filed down the stairs into the crypt where there is normally a cafe. This was shut, but outside there was a drinks bar. Down here was a tunnel of blue with stars and made everyone look like they were wearing cosy fleeces!
The Crypt
Then it was time to enter the church itself where the main display was.
What can I say, but wow! It over too soon. We watched it through twice before finally leaving, and to make space for those coming up behind us. The show is on for a few more weeks, so if you can, do go and see it.
This week is a cobbled together post which highlights my week of walks, meeting friends and a sunset. A theme appeared which seems to revolve around trees!
I was up in London late last week. London always looks good at night with its vibrant assortment of lights, reflections in the river and lit up bridges. I cannot resist taking photos.
Hayward Gallery, Southbank. Not strtictly treees, but shaped a little like them?!
At the weekend my elder son and I took his puppy to Wimbledon Common. This was Rue’s second trip on a bus. We went upstairs and he sat with me by the window so he could see everything, but frankly he was more interested in people coming up the stairs or leaving!
We walked him up Wimbledon Hill, through a busy Wimbledon Village and onto the common. We took him for a curcuit of Cannizaro Park where he met a few dogs and enjoyed all the attention. Cannizaro park was alive with bird sounds, and we saw a parakeet mugging a squirrel until it found a hole to escape into.
Cannizaro Park
In Cannizaro Park
Spring is coming
Stream in Cannizaro Park
I love the colours of bamboo
The park looks good any time of year
Snowdrops
Back onto the common and away from roads we let Rue off the lead and he was a very happy dog.
Wimbledon Common
By Beverley Brook, near the end of our walk.
This is new since I was last here. I never knew this.
I finally charged the battery in my bridge camera yesterday. I’m so glad I did as we had a lovely sunset last night, so the following photos were taken from my back garden. See you next week!
On a freezing cold evening I went with my youngstest son and his girlfriend to Canary Wharf to enjoy the delights of the Winter Lights. There are 22 in all, spread over the whole of Canary Wharf, including inside Crossrail Place and the Roof Garden. This made for a nice stop to warm up! Five are permanent features I have seen before, so we mised those out, except for Adams Plaza Bridge which is always worth a photo.
The event began on Wednesday 18th January and continues to Saturday 28th January and runs between 5pm and 10pm. It is also free. You can download an APP of the map, or receive a hard copy from the many stewards around Canary Wharf. We did have to queue outside to get into Amina, but the line moved forward reasonably quickly. There were also queues inside Crossrail Place, but again all moved fast, and at least there it’s warm.
It takes a while to walk to and view all the exhibits, but it is worth it, and at Westferry Circus you are right on the River Thames. Anyway, enjoy the photos and videos.
Fluorescent Firs – Jubilee Park
Jubilee Park
Jubilee Park
Emergene by This is Loop – Montgomery Square
On the way to Water Street
Anima by ELISAVA – Water Street
You Exist, here, now by The Fandangoe Kid – Crossrail Place (Level 3)
in(visible) by Daniel Popsecu – Crossrail Place (Level 1 – Quayside)
in(visible) by Daniel Popsecu – Crossrail Place (Level 1 – Quayside)
Crystal Greenhouse by Shared Space and Light – Jubilee Park
Elantica ‘The Boulder’ by Tom&Lien Dekyvere – Crossrail Place (Level 1, Quayside)
Roof Garden, Crossrail Place
Fragmented Appearances by Gertjan Adema – Roof Garden, Crossrail Place
Captivated by Colour by Camille Walala – Adams Plaza Bridge (Level 0)
Continunum by Illumaphonium – Carbot Square
Out of the Dark by Tom Lambert (Crossrail Place, Level 1, Quayside)
Intonaluci ‘The Light Snails’ by Calidos (Crossrail Place Roof Garden, Level 1)
Westferry Circus overlooking the River Thames
River Thames
Permafrost – Sleeping Giants by Fisheye – Canary Riverside
The Stars Come Out at Night by Stellar Projects – Wren Landing
I set out with a vague idea of a route, but at least I had one specific place to visit. Flicking through London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts, I came across St Etheldreda’s, Farringdon. It was open on a Mondon (yay!) and had a crypt. The photos of it (and a look on their website) convinced me I must see it.
The church is off Ely Place, a gated cul-de-sac, off Holborn Circus and the nearest tube station is Chancery Lane. The church dates from 1252 and is the only Pre-Reformation church still in Catholic use. We get the term ‘night on the tiles’ from the tiled cloister as the Bishop gave a five-day party here for King Henry VIII, and it was here that the King discussed divorce from Catherine of Aragon with Archbishop Cranmer.
Ely Place
I had the whole of the church to myself. The large stained glass window just inside the main church was so huge that I couldn’t stand back far enough to frame the whole thing in my camera (I only had my mobile and it doesn’t have a wide-angle lens). The church has some wonderful stained glass windows.
The Nave
Altar window
Looking back
I walked down to The Crypt, which was very dimly lit. It seemed to be a place for storage and a sometimes cafe, maybe a performance space. However, there were some modern stained glass windows and statues.
In the crypt
A view from the steps coming out of the church towards the main entrance and the crypt to the left.
From St Etheldreda’s, I noticed a couple of other churches on the other side of Holborn Circus. I thought I’d see if they were open. The first was St Andrew, Holborn, an Anglican Church worshipping in the Catholic Style (High Anglican!). It also features (as I was later to discover) in London’s 100 Best Churches.
This is a very light church, very open and spacious, with a glorious ceiling. A gallery surrounds the nave. The church claims to have had people worshipping on the site for over 1,000 years. There is a wonderful timeline history on the website. Do take a look.
What stood out for me was the small altar with mother and child with the gold surround. Astonishing.
The nave with gallery.
The organ loft
This church holds the tomb of Thomas Coram, the founder of The Foundling Hospital, which I have visited in the past.
The tomb of Thomas Coram
This art work is over the door leading into the church.
Coming out of the church I walked and crossed Holborn Viaduct.
View from Holborn Viaduct
I don’t know much about architecture, though I studied a bit of Roman and Greek, which there is a lot of in London as it is considered classic. Just look at all the columns in London’s old buildings. However, new designs can sometimes be very photogenic, like the one in the photo above.
The final church I visited was Holy Sepulchre. I don’t know why this church isn’t featured in London’s 100 Best Churches, because I think it should.
Holy Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct.
I was delighted to find out it is the musicians’ church, and has a dedicated Musicians’ Chapel. I spent some time in there enjoying the surroundings and the wonderful kneelers, each one representing a different composer.
The chapel also holds the ashes of Sir Henry Wood. He learned to play organ here before going on to study at the Royal Academy of Music. His father sang tenor in the choir. There is a window dedicated to Sir Henry Wood and a memorial book to musicians.
Musicians’ Chapel
Organ loft
Here was another interesting detail. There is a replica of the bell beside this plaque, but there was so much reflection I couldn’t take a photo of it.
The Royal Fusiliers Chapel (City of London Regiment)
Font
My aim now was to wander down to Paternoster Square, and as I walked I realised I’d been here before a couple of times. Greyfriars sits close to St Paul’s. What remains of the Greyfriats has been turned into a pocket garden.
Greyfriars
I had come to Paternoster Square where I wanted to see a fairly new art work, The Wild Table of Love. I’m sure I’ve read this is a temporary installation, but I may be wrong about this. However, it was great to see it, and a good excuse to end my visit in this place.
Around the edge of the square there are restaurants and cafes. I took a break at Pret before taking in the rest of the square.
This is the installation I had come to see.
St Paul’s Cathedral
I nipped into the Salvation Arm Cafe by the Millennium Bridge for a cup of tea and a cookie.
Crossing the Millennium Bridge I was now going to walk back to Waterloo along Southbank.
Here you can see The Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.
This is one of my favourite spots to take a photo. I never tire of this view across the bridge.
This really speaks to me.
Outside the Hayward Gallery, Southbank
I really enjoyed this day out. I found some marvelous churches I had not set out to see and learned new things. Sometimes keeping plans loose can lead you into some very interesting places. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.
My London+ 