I had come to Guildford for one reason only, and that was to view The Watts Gallery and Artist Village in Compton. Without transport it is not easy. There is an hourly bus service from the bus station in Guildford, which leaves ten minutes after the bus I was taking to Guildford arrives! I could have used the train, but I fancied a jaunt out on the bus. So, rather than trying to do the trip in a day, it became a three night break.
The Watts Gallery has been on my hit list for many years but due to the awkwardness of getting there, it had been put off. Not this time.
Guildford is not a cheap place to stay, and travelling alone I wanted a central hotel. With my option of dates dwindling, I booked The Angel Posting House & Livery on the High Street. The only coaching house remaining in Guildford and built in 1527 on the former site of the Whitefriars Monastery, I was in good company, as the likes of Charles Dickens, Jane Austen and Oliver Cromwell had stayed here. My suite (yes, suite!) was called the James Boswell Suite. Next door was William Pitt! You can read about the history of the hotel here. The hotel is quirky and the labyrinth of corridors to get to and from my room was a feat in itself. A map would have been handy. One had to look for pointers. Remember the plant, I was advised, as the young lady on reception led me up stairs, down steps, through fire doors and round corners. The first time I left the room, I missed the first fire door and ended up opening a cupboard on the landing! But my room was massive and the windows overlooked the alleyway where the horses and coaches would have once entered and exited. From the window I watched the most beautiful sunsets every night.
The hotel was room only as there is a Bill’s downstairs where I could have had breakfast (opened at 8am), but I never used it.
It has been a few years since I was last in Guildford. I remember when the kids were young I took them to the castle, and some years ago I attended the Flower Festival at the Cathedral (set just outside the town), but my visits have been few and far between. So, on arrival day, I set off on a walk to get my bearings.
The next morning I set off for the Watts Gallery. The bus didn’t arrive! I ended up sharing an Uber taxi with a young man who works in a restaurant in Compton village (just beyond the galleries). What a kind person, and what luck that he was there.
The Watts’ were part of the Arts & Craft Movement of which I am so very fond (think William Morris). Mary Watts was George Watts’ second wife. I was surprised to find that George was previously (and very briefly) married to the actress Ellen Terry. The Watts’ worked in London before moving out to Compton to set up galleries, a chapel and classes in pottery for the locals. What they did there was astonishing. The house, Limnerslease, was their home, but also where they worked. The ceiling panels in the hall and living room were designed and worked by Mary. The hall ceiling panels depict the various religions. Mary was also fond of repurposing items, and the wood either side of the living room doors are from a church. The grounds in which the house stands are quiet and beautiful.
A short walk along the main road you come to the Chapel and cemetery. On opening the chapel door the only word I can say is “WOW”. Every part is painted with motifs. It is stunning and none of my photos will ever do it justice. It reminds me of Byzantium churches. Local red clay is used even in the graveyard, with headstones and, of course, the cloisters where George F Watts was buried, and later Mary.
Back to the main buildings and to the Watts Galleries with paintings, sculptures and the De Morgan Collection.
You can read about Evelyn de Morgan here.
The cafe on site is really nice – I had a lovely lunch. The shop is large with many items to woo you. Above the shop is a contemporary gallery selling new works by current artists, which is also worth a look. You need to allow around four hours to see everything without rushing. In the guide book there is a walk yu can take through the village and across the fields back to the galleries, but I didn’t do that, and considering how long I waited for the damn bus (which didn’t arrive) I might as well have! The lady in the shop called me a taxi. Although it is only a ten minute journey, it is a hassle getting there. That’s my only negative of the day. Everything else was pretty mind blowing.
On my final day, I decided I would go walking, and I found a nice route along the River Wey from Guildford to Godalming (approx 4 miles). This was a pretty walk with a number of locks and narrowboats passing through.
I had an early lunch in Godalming and caught the bus back to Guildford where I had a look around Guildford Museum before my second walk of the day. I staggered up Pewley Hill to Pewley Down. Staggered is about it! I can walk miles, but steep hills kill me. Someone had helpfully installed a bench after the worst part of the hill. Gratefully, I sat down to recover before the last haul up to the down. It was worth it though, for the view. Pewley Down is a lovely spot to sit and just enjoy the countryside, with bird song, the neigh of a horse, the buzz of bees and butterflies flitting from flower to flower.
I hope you have enjoyed this wander into Surrey with me. It was a great trip for me.
My London+ 