walk – My London+

Three London Churches, a square and a river

St Etheldreda’s. Ely Place

I set out with a vague idea of a route, but at least I had one specific place to visit. Flicking through London’s 100 Best Churches by Leigh Hatts, I came across St Etheldreda’s, Farringdon. It was open on a Mondon (yay!) and had a crypt. The photos of it (and a look on their website) convinced me I must see it.

The church is off Ely Place, a gated cul-de-sac, off Holborn Circus and the nearest tube station is Chancery Lane. The church dates from 1252 and is the only Pre-Reformation church still in Catholic use. We get the term ‘night on the tiles’ from the tiled cloister as the Bishop gave a five-day party here for King Henry VIII, and it was here that the King discussed divorce from Catherine of Aragon with Archbishop Cranmer.

Ely Place

I had the whole of the church to myself. The large stained glass window just inside the main church was so huge that I couldn’t stand back far enough to frame the whole thing in my camera (I only had my mobile and it doesn’t have a wide-angle lens). The church has some wonderful stained glass windows.

The Nave

Altar window

Looking back

I walked down to The Crypt, which was very dimly lit. It seemed to be a place for storage and a sometimes cafe, maybe a performance space. However, there were some modern stained glass windows and statues.

In the crypt

A view from the steps coming out of the church towards the main entrance and the crypt to the left.

From St Etheldreda’s, I noticed a couple of other churches on the other side of Holborn Circus. I thought I’d see if they were open. The first was St Andrew, Holborn, an Anglican Church worshipping in the Catholic Style (High Anglican!). It also features (as I was later to discover) in London’s 100 Best Churches.

This is a very light church, very open and spacious, with a glorious ceiling. A gallery surrounds the nave. The church claims to have had people worshipping on the site for over 1,000 years. There is a wonderful timeline history on the website. Do take a look.

What stood out for me was the small altar with mother and child with the gold surround. Astonishing.

The nave with gallery.

The organ loft

This church holds the tomb of Thomas Coram, the founder of The Foundling Hospital, which I have visited in the past.

The tomb of Thomas Coram

This art work is over the door leading into the church.

Coming out of the church I walked and crossed Holborn Viaduct.

View from Holborn Viaduct

I don’t know much about architecture, though I studied a bit of Roman and Greek, which there is a lot of in London as it is considered classic. Just look at all the columns in London’s old buildings. However, new designs can sometimes be very photogenic, like the one in the photo above.

The final church I visited was Holy Sepulchre. I don’t know why this church isn’t featured in London’s 100 Best Churches, because I think it should.

Holy Sepulchre, Holborn Viaduct.

I was delighted to find out it is the musicians’ church, and has a dedicated Musicians’ Chapel. I spent some time in there enjoying the surroundings and the wonderful kneelers, each one representing a different composer.

The chapel also holds the ashes of Sir Henry Wood. He learned to play organ here before going on to study at the Royal Academy of Music. His father sang tenor in the choir. There is a window dedicated to Sir Henry Wood and a memorial book to musicians.

Musicians’ Chapel

Organ loft

Here was another interesting detail. There is a replica of the bell beside this plaque, but there was so much reflection I couldn’t take a photo of it.

The Royal Fusiliers Chapel (City of London Regiment)

Font

My aim now was to wander down to Paternoster Square, and as I walked I realised I’d been here before a couple of times. Greyfriars sits close to St Paul’s. What remains of the Greyfriats has been turned into a pocket garden.

Greyfriars

I had come to Paternoster Square where I wanted to see a fairly new art work, The Wild Table of Love. I’m sure I’ve read this is a temporary installation, but I may be wrong about this. However, it was great to see it, and a good excuse to end my visit in this place.

Around the edge of the square there are restaurants and cafes. I took a break at Pret before taking in the rest of the square.

This is the installation I had come to see.

St Paul’s Cathedral

I nipped into the Salvation Arm Cafe by the Millennium Bridge for a cup of tea and a cookie.

Crossing the Millennium Bridge I was now going to walk back to Waterloo along Southbank.

Here you can see The Shard, and Tower Bridge in the distance.

This is one of my favourite spots to take a photo. I never tire of this view across the bridge.

This really speaks to me.

Outside the Hayward Gallery, Southbank

I really enjoyed this day out. I found some marvelous churches I had not set out to see and learned new things. Sometimes keeping plans loose can lead you into some very interesting places. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.

The great out and about and a past trip to Birmingham

New Year taken by my son by Lambeth Bridge, London

It is amazing how many places are shut on Mondays (usually one of my free days for exploring), and just now the weather has been dreadful (lots of wind and rain). At this time of year, houses owned by National Trust of English Heritage are closed, operating between October and March. Around Easter time, things pick up again. Some do open at Christmas as light shows have become the next big thing here. It used to be ice rinks, but I think light shows have taken over.

All the heady Christmas festivities have finished and now we are in January, the month when most people struggle with low mood. Getting outside is a great help, but you need some decent weather.

I went in search of new ideas at the library last week and headed for the travel section. There are often books on London with walking guides. Yes, I have plenty of my own, but I’m always on the look out for walks I’d not come across before that pass interesting places and gardens. I ended up with a book about a woman who kyaks through the Birmingham Canal system, and before you ask, I won’t be doing that even for this blog!

I’ve been to Birmingham twice, once for a day and another for a weekend. On the weekend trip I found the canal and what a busy thriving place it is (well in the City). I walked part of it, but without a map I had no idea where I was going, so didn’t venture too far.

I remember a particular low, dark tunnel which made me rather nervous. There were a couple of guys in there. I’m not sure if they were rough sleepers or just friends chatting. I hesitated. I was on my own. This might not be a good idea, but I strode out purposefully and reached the other side in one piece.

20190628_155814 — Who remembers Rosie & Jim from kids’ TV? Birmingham Canal

I get the feeling from the book I am reading that there are lots of tunnels like this, and also a lot where you can’t walk. In those days, narrow boats went through while the horse pulling them went over the bridge. The book also talks about the lowness of some bridges where the men had to push through by lying on top of their boats and guide it through using their legs!

Because I know the canal a little, I recognised names like Gas Street and Mailbox (where tour boats take you out on the water) in the book. It’s proving to be an interesting little book. In case you are interested, the book is called Hidden Nature: A Voyage of Discovery by Alys Fowler. In this book, Alys finds herself too.

It was the canals I fell in love with in Birmingham. I admit I got lost in the big shopping centre. I couldn’t find my way out and had to have help from one of the security guards! No sense of direction, that’s me. Not good in a walker.

The other place I loved was Birmingham City Library. Oh, this was paradise for me, being an avid reader. The size, design of the building and all those books, I was just swooning.

20190628_153939 — The view from the roof garden. Yes, it really has a lovely roof garden!

20190628_153824 — Birmingham City Library

Of course there are other things to see in Birmingham, different ‘quarters’, the museum and the cathedral, but the library and canal was my wow factor.

20190628_164229 — Lots of pubs line the canal

See you next week for a new adventure.

Regent’s Park walk

Taken from Primrose Hill on a misty morning

It wasn’t the nicest day for a walk, but sometimes my free days don’t coincide with one! I did know that due to the mist, I’d have to take my bridge camera to cope with a view from Primrose Hill. I’d failed to recharge the battery and only one line remained, but hey, sometimes you have to take chances. In the end, I got four or five photos out of it, and the ones I wanted. Phew!

I’d borrowed a book from the library entitled Walking London: 30 Original Walks in and Around London by Andrew Duncan. I used it for part of the walk I took in Kensington last week. The walks are easy to follow (even for me!) and take you off the beaten track to the back streets where there are some interesting finds, things I would probably not find on my own.

The walk is three and half miles long (walking time about one and a half hours) and begins at Chalk Farm underground station (Northern Line). Coming out of the station, I crossed the road and headed up Bridge Approach. Here I crossed the bridge over the underground. I crossed the road at the end and walked up Regent’s Park Road, where there are some rather nice shops. I nearly got distracted by a book shop (as ever!). The road leads to Primrose Hill, and I followed the path to the top where the above photo was taken.

The bridge over the underground

The shops in Regen’s Park Road

A man of interest

Walking up Primrose Hill

Another view from the top of Primrose Hill

I retraced my steps a little and then took the first path right and walked to the end of the park (there are toilets here) and crossed the road and took a right over the bridge. Looking down, there was Regent’s Canal.

Regent’s Canal

Another view from the bridge

I realised that I have only walked through Regent’s Park when visiting London Zoo. There is so much else to see.

Into Regent’s Park

I remember this drinking fountain. After that it was all new.

Don’t these trees look gorgeous even on a damp, misty day?

Following the path around the playing fields, I finally came to the lake full of birds of all descriptions.

Canada geese

I love this view. See those buildings? They are described as pepperpots. They are in Sussex Place.

I love all the little bridges in the park. This one eventually leads to the children’s boating lake.

Majestic Heron!

Nothing like a splash of autumn colour

London Central Mosque

I found this lovely cafe overlooking the lake and decorated in the style of Queen Mary’s Gardens (part of Regent’s Park and yet to visit on this walk). The stop was most welcome. A chance for a hot drink and a warm up.

Through the window

The work of John Nash, whose buildings can be seen also close to Trafalgar Square.

Holme House

Another bridge

Holme Green Bandstand. On 20th July 1982, the bandstand was the target of a terrorist attack by the IRA. Seven bandsmen were killed and a further 24 injured during a concert by the band of the Royal Green Jackets. Eight members of the public, who were watching the performance, were also taken to hospital with injuries sustained in the bombing.

Nice to see some colour still

The Sunken Garden, Queen Mary’s Gardens

Walking past the Open Air Theatre, you come to these gardens.

The fountain

Queen Mary’s Gardens

Queen Mary’s Rose Gardens

Now out of the gates I was heading towards some of the back streets of Regent’s Park, and what a surprise I got!

The terraces come with their own private gardens (right)

Just stunning

Walking between one stunning terrace to another, yet still opposite Regent’s Park

I’m almost at the end of the walk now.

Down an alleyway of Peto Place where you can see the Royal College of Physicians in the background.

The BT Tower shrouded in mist

The walk in the book ends at Regent’s Park station, but as I was opposite Great Portland Street, I decided to travel back from here. This was a most interesting and lovely walk, but it was nice to get warm again as the cold had seemed to get right into me by then. I hope you have enjoyed this walk too.

Kensington: An exhibition and walk

The above photo (design by Dali and Edward James) is from the exhibition Objects of Desire: Surrealism and Design which is currently on at the Design Museum, Kensington High Street. I’ve always rather enjoyed surrealist art, especially Salvador Dali, but this exhibition was more about design, though there were a few paintings.

There were a lot Dali’s designs. I didn’t know, for instance, that he designed fabrics nor that he worked with Disney. I particularly liked some of the tables, though the one made using bicycle wheels might have been tricky in a room. Where there brakes?!

This chair is by Gaudi. And I rather like that table behind!

Here is the cycle wheels table!

And for those all important cocktails!

Fashion – the black & white outfit is a design by Dali

Another Dail piece. If I used a compact, I’d love this.

Max Ernst painting

The Uncomfortable Chair – why? Because you can?

After leaving the museum, I followed part of walk I discovered coincided with where I was. I set off to find the former house of Ford Madox Ford, writer of around 80 books. He is the grandson of the Pre-Raphaelite artist, Ford Madox Brown, whose painting Work I admire. It features a street in Hampstead, where I’ve walked, which was quite exciting for me (not sure my friend understood my feelings!).

You can’t see much of the house at 80 Camphill Road in Kensington as it is walled and gated.

It was interesting walking along the back roads of Kensington. The Elephant & Castle Pub/Restaurant looked rather inviting.

And this row of shops down Kensington Church Walk was a nice find.

Mural

St Mary Abbots Church

They already have their Christmas decorations up

Near the church was this garden (see also below)

I love it when two things come together and I find places I’ve not been to before. Streets off the main highways quite often surprise. And I did enjoy the exhibition. Should you be in the area, Holland Park is just behind the Design Museum, with its Japanese Garden. That’s always worth a stroll around.

Richmond to Kingston Thames Path Walk

Richmond

On a dreary day, I made my way to Richmond. Initially, I was going to view the recent statue of Virginia Woolf overlooking the riverside. Virginia (part of the Bloomsbury Group) and her husband lived in Richmond for ten years and set up the Hogarth Press. I wasn’t sure where the statue was, but I found a photo online and asked my son, who used to work in Richmond, where it was. Virginia was well camouflaged set in several rows of benches overlooking the River Thames.

Virginia Woolf overlooking the river

Nice view

And yes, I did sit next to her! The temptation was too much.

I then set off along the Thames Path in the direction of Kingston I have walked this section before, but not in this direction and not in one go. I remember back then I thought it was too far. Ha, ha! I’ve walked a lot further in one go now, but those were my early days of walking.

By Richmond Bridge

Loved this quirky Three Pigeons insect hotel

It was nice to find some flowers still blooming along the path, though don’t ask me to name them!

The plaque below on the obelisk itself says: Thames Conservancy; Lower Limit, 1900.

Teddington Lock, where the famous Monty Python ‘fish slapping dance’ scene was filmed back in 1971. See below.

If you look at this photo, you can still see the building where the filming took place. Behind it is now the riverside is built up with lots of apartments on the Teddington side.

Getting close to Kingston now.

Autumn is really here now

Apologies if I’ve posted this photo before. This has often been my stopping point when walking from the other direction.

Egyptian ducks

Turks Boatyard. See this article to learn more about Turks boatbuilding.

Arrival. Christmas is coming. This is taken by Kingston Bridge (the railway bridge can be seen in the distance)

Kingston Christmas Market

I bought this from a little stall on the riverside. It was unmaned and had an ‘honesty box’. Everything was being sold in aid of the local Scout group. I couldn’t resist this!

Worthing, West Sussex

I am posting this blog a day early as tomorrow is the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II, and out of respect, I will not post then.

It has been a difficult week, and sometimes I have just had to escape the media coverage of every minute of happenings since the Queen died. So, I escaped to the coast for the day on Monday. It felt like the last day of summer. It was hot and sunny, and this was also a walk down memory lane.

My parents used to bring my brother and me here as kids. We holidayed here and also came for day trips. So, I sought out the old haunts. But the first thing I did when I arrived was go on the beach! I sat there for a while, just listening to the waves pounding as they rolled in and sucking at the stones as they retreated.

From the beach I headed for the pier and walked to the end, stopping off at the Amusement Arcade where I lost my money many a time on the penny falls. I didn’t bother trying this time, and just walked through.

Back on the promenade, I walked towards West Worthing and to Marine Gardens where the putting green is. I used to worry my mum and dad everyday to play on here. It’s looking a little worse for wear since the heatwave. The cafe is still there where we drank cups of tea. It’s been modernised, but it’s not that different. I bought lunch here and then went to spend some time watching bowls, another thing we used to do.

A rather scrappy looking putting green in Marine Gardens

Next was to walk the short distance to where the hotel was where we used to stay. It was demolished some years ago now. In its place are luxury apartments but still overlooking the same green and the sea.

The snazzy apartments standing on the site of the former hotel

Then it was back to the beach. A different spot this time. I didn’t want to leave. The day was perfect. Eventually I packed up and headed back along the prom and then into town where I had a look around before grabbing a cup of tea and walking to the station.

Trains run from London Victoria to Worthing. The journey is short, about an hour and twenty minutes. I love it when the train gets to Hove and then Shoreham where you catch glimpses of the sea. I realised how much I need to be by the sea that day. Apart from one morning in Herne Bay during a gale in February, this was the first time I’d spent any quality time by the sea. How I’d missed it.

Thames Path Walk: Henley to Reading

This was a day walk. Henley is around one hour on the train from Paddington. We arrived around 11.30am. The day was beautiful and warm. Close to Henley, an unsafe bridge meant a diversion through a local farmer’s property. It turned out to be a pleasant diversion, and we were soon back on Thames Path. A short walk and we were in Shiplake, where we stopped to have our packed lunch. We considered going to The Baskerville pub for a cup of tea before setting off again, and this was our big mistake. We didn’t! A regret that would live with us until Reading!

The next stretch of the walk took us alongside the railway track and over the line at Shiplake Station (a station on the Twyford to Henley line), and at this point, we temporarily left the Thames. Coming back to it, we were disappointed we couldn’t see St Peter & St Paul Church through the trees. It hides up beyond Shiplake College Rowing Club. It would have meant a walk uphill, and knowing we still had a fair way to walk, we reluctantly didn’t venture up there. However, I can tell you that the poet Tennyson married here and paid the vicar with a poem instead of the fee! Also the author George Orwell grew up in Shiplake.

Damselfly – always wildlife to look out for

This was perhaps the more interesting part of the walk and seemed well spread out.

The next section of the walk seemed to be a slog. There were no real landmarks to tell us how far we still had to walk, or locate on the map. My map of the route was over several pages of the book, but we seemed to be stuck on one page for an eternity. At this point, we were in desperate need of a cup of tea! We were holding on for Sonning where our books said there was a riverside tea shop.

Walking into Sonning. Is that a postbox on the bridge?!

We arrived at Sonning Lock where there should have been a tea shop. There wasn’t! The Lockkeepers said it had been closed for two years. My friend asked if they would make us a cuppa, but no. We asked how much further it was to Reading and were told it was about three miles. So we sat on a bench to eat our last snacks and drink our water. We both needed plasters for our feet, and then we set off again dreaming of cups of tea lined up on a bar!

The final slog along the Thames seemed daunting. However, it wasn’t long before signs of Reading emerged, like a school rowing club with Reading in its name! This urged us on.

Reading School Rowing Club out on the water

We pressed on as we saw tall building through the trees. We could also taste the tea!

Despite being tea deprived, I stopped to take this!

By the time we reached Caversham Lock, I knew we were close to Reading. We came to a part in the path I remembered from a previous trip to Reading. For a moment, we came off the path and headed for the big Tesco store because they would have a cafe. Our spirits plummeted again when we found the cafe was closed due to lack of staff. Dispirited, we used the customer loos and headed back to the path.

Finally, we saw Reading Bridge. We were there. And the station was just over the road. We finally got our cuppa. Pure nectar!

After we recovered, we headed for the train. Our plan had been to use the new Elizabeth Line back into London, and this we did. As I have Freedom Pass, I was able to ride this for free! Nice to have some advantages to getting older! It took around an hour. The fast train probably takes half that time, but this was our dream to ride the Elizabeth Line. I’ve followed every development of Crossrail, now the Elizabeth Line, and this was a good opportunity to travel a whole length of it. The train was less crowded than the fast train (which we saw flying past!). It was a nice relaxing ride back to London.

Interior of train – not that busy from Reading

Door to door we had walked just under thirteen and half miles, the longest Thames Path walk we’d done. Each section of the path is different. There are boring bits and beautiful parts. We were just glad to reach the end this time. We have our next walk planned, but due to National Rail going on strike, we have already had to change the date. Whether it happens remains to be seen. I have walked this next section before when staying in Reading. It seemed a long walk last time, but it says in our books the walk is seven miles. It should be a doddle after what we’d just walked!

Paddington Station and Elizabeth Line train

A touch of spring

Yesterday, I took a stroll along one of my old ‘lockdown’ walking routes to admire the spring flowers. First was a local park where I used to jog (I jog no more!), and then via back roads and over a railway bridge to what is now known as Beeline Way, a path that runs along the railway line. Here the Friends of Beeline Way have planted spring bulbs. I’d heard that it looked pretty, so I decided to take a look for myself.

At the end of the path there is a playing field where boys were well into a game of football. It’s been many years since I spent Saturday mornings in a cold, wind-blown park watching my boys play in Little League. And it was always cold or wet. In winter I would lose the feeling in my toes. Even on sunny days, the wind would sweep across the field. While I hated the standing around, I loved watching them play.

Jay. I didn’t have much time to capture this, and only had my mobile with me.

And then these final two photos were taken in my back garden.

See you next week.

Thames Path: Greenwich to Thames Barrier

At the fourth attempt, we finally took this walk last Wednesday. Weather, tube strikes and me not feeling well, had stopped us before, but we had the perfect day all round.

My friend and I met at Waterloo station and took the Jubilee Line tube to Canary Wharf, where we changed onto the DLR to Greenwich. The walk on the map is classed at around two miles. It was nearer five!

Greenwich is an interesting place in its own right, with the Navel College, National Maritime Museum, Queen’s House, Cutty Sark and the Royal Observatory. Plenty to keep you going all day and more.

The walk along the Thames Path takes you past some interesting places, including the O2 (Millennium Dome), Greenwich Ecology Park and, of course, the Thames Barrier itself. The views are great across the river, and the trees are quite unexpected. With the tide out, there was rather an exotic feel to the river with some sandy spots. You could almost think you were at the beach!

Trinity Hospital and Almshouses, Greenwich

I like a bit of industrial stuff to photograph, and there is always some public art around on these walks.

Rather exotic. Would you expect to see this by the river?

These buildings seemed to follow us around – Canary Wharf

Along this stretch of river there is a large bend. The O2 sits on the point of it, so you cannot see the Thames Barrier for quite a while. Like Canary Wharf, the O2 seems to take an age to pass! As I have walked this once, if not twice, before, I remember how this part seems to go on forever.

During Storm Eunice in February this year, part of the roof of the O2 building was ripped away. The photo below shows the extent of the damage. It looks much bigger when standing there than it did on TV.

Fly Emirates! The cable car takes you to Victoria Dock on the other side of the river.

The cable car is just great! I have used it twice. The views are spectacular. Who needs a good excuse to use it?

We’d taken food with us to eat, but stopped to buy an extra drink. We sat in a park surrounded by daffodils to have our lunch before using the toilets in the O2, where I took the photo below.

I know there was controversy about this building, but I like it.

Unfortunately, the Thames barrier Information Centre was shut, but I have visited it once before. I can recommend it. There is a cut-away model showing how the barrier works.

One gets tempted to take rather a lot of photos.

Here you can see more how the barrier works

Here you can follow the line from source to sea and one day I shall complete it!

After all that walking what we really needed was a nice cup of tea. So, we headed to the pub we had seen earlier, called the Anchor & Hope and had our tea. Duly refreshed, we headed to Chalton Station to catch the train back into centre of London. A lovely day.

The City of Canterbury, Kent (1)

I was due to leave for Canterbury on 18th February for four nights, and then Storm Eunice hovered and was due to hit on the day I was leaving home. Having found out that my train ticket would be valid to use either on the 17th or 19th due to the storm, I rang the hotel to see if I could book in a day early. Once that was confirmed, I had a frantic time packing. All my plans seemed rushed. I have never packed so fast and with little thought! I’d rung them in the afternoon and I arrived around 6.45 that evening. In the dark it was hard to spot the hotel, but I arrived, quickly unpacked, and went for a meal in the dining room.

No one knew quite what would happen the next day, except winds were due to reach between 60-80 miles and hour. We received the highest warning (Red). I made the right choice as I’d not have got here otherwise. Trains were suspended, planes had trouble landing (some aborted landing and flew back). Building collapsed, roofs were blown off including part of the O2 building in London.

On that first morning, I did little except pop out before the peak hit, just to get my bearings. I had a nice nap in the afternoon while the wind raged. By 4pm things had died down and I ventured out and took a walk around part of the city walls (not Roman, but built on top of them), took a stroll through Dane John Gardens and watched the sun set from the top of Dane John monument. Dane John is from the Norman ‘Donjon’. The Normans raised their first defences here. At the top it was really scary as the wind was strong still and I clung to the railings to take a few photos. I was glad to get down again.

Canterbury Castle is no longer open due to crumbling masonry

St George’s Clocktower. Remains of the church where Christopher Marlowe was baptised

Canterbury is the birth place of Christianity, the place where Thomas Becket was martyred, the birthplace of Christopher Marlowe and the story of The Canterbury Tales by Chaucer. It is also the birthplace of the creator of Rupert Bear, and has the oldest church in the English speaking world. Canterbury also has many Roman remains. Walking in the city is walking on Roman buildings and roads. Even the hotel where I am staying has part of the Roman Theatre beneath it. In the foyer is a glass floor where you can see part of it.

Because there is so much to see and do here that I am splitting this blog into parts.

Yesterday I had a four hour window (with sunshine!) to get out and take photos before heavy rain set in. I wanted to see the River Stour and ended up walking a fair distance of it. Westgate Gardens is a beautiful part of it, and I enjoyed being out in the sun. The wind had dropped and it was pleasant.

Westgate Towers is the old gaol, now a museum, restaurant and escape room!

On my return to the city, I had a few places I wanted to visit. These included The Beany (House of Art & Knowledge) which is also the city Tourist Information Office, Library and has galleries. But that, I’m afraid, is for next time.