A trip out of London for a few days was something I’d tentatively planned while we were in lockdown. Having had to cancel two holidays I wondered if a short break would be possible this year. Well, I booked to go to Winchester only a few weeks ago. I found a nice self-catering apartment just off the city centre where I stayed for four nights last week. It didn’t take me long to settle in and enjoy the small garden where I regularly sat in the afternoons with my tea and a book.
I know Winchester well and have been many times, either for a day (it’s only about an hour by train from London) or to stay for a few nights. One year it was for the Christmas market.
I’d decided this break would mostly be a walking trip. I have visited most of the places of interest – Museum, The Great Hall, a couple of unique churches and the Discovery Centre. With some places still closed, others needed booking in advance, so I chose only things I could go to without booking. And of course with walking you don’t need to wear a face mask!
The first full day was spent following the river Itchen and it’s journey into the Winnall Moors Nature Reserve. There it is so peaceful, yet you are so close to the city. There is a pond and boardwalk, and if you are lucky enough you might even see a water vole (I didn’t). Afterwards I followed the river back in a different direction and then walked into the city for lunch at the Winchester Cathedral Refectory.
In the afternoon I had a stroll to West Hill Cemetery, which is old. Grass has been left so that it attracts wildlife. I remember the first time I had come through here some years ago dragging my suitcase along the main path. I was going to Winchester University (this is a regular cut through from the station) to attend a weekend writing conference. Now I had time to wander off the path and admire the view from the top of the hill. I forgotten how steep the hill was up to the cemetery!
On the second day I took a bus out of Winchester to Alresford (takes about 20 minutes by bus). The countryside is beautiful and the town has wide roads, grass verges and colourfully painted buildings. Here is also the home of the Watercress Line steam railway. The railway was runing, though I didn’t go on it. I just took some photos through fences!
I’d come for the Millennium Trail, following the River Arle. I have to say it is one of the prettiest walks I have done in a long while. The ducks were out in force! Mums with small children were feeding them. On the trail there is Eel House and the Fulling Mill (a thatched house built over the river that is so pictureque). The trail takes you alongside private land and comes out on the Winchester Road, and that takes you back to town. I skipped off back down another way to rejoin the river and eat my packed lunch while watching the ducks. There was a short detour (to see where it led!) where I found Arle Mill as well as a waterfall. That was a truly lovely day and somewhere I had never visited before.
My final full day started late and I decided to visit Winchester Cathedral, as there was no need to book. It took me a while to realise what was different about the cathedral. And then later it clicked – all the seating had been removed from the centre. The chapels were also closed, though I took photos through the bars. I think the crypt was also closed, though I have been there before. There is an Antony Gormley figure down there. The cathedral had a special exhibition on entitled Kings & Scribes which was over three floors. It was really interesting, especially as I’d recently read a book about the Vikings where King Alfred of Wessex featured! There is a statue of King Alfred in Winchester.
After the cathedral I walked along by the river to the castle ruins of Wolvesey and then headed off along the water meadows to The Hospital of St Cross and Almshouses. The building was closed (apart from the shop), but I had been before. Last time the church was being prepared for a wedding. This time I sat on a bench and watched walkers pass with their dogs and the dragonsflies flit around, while eating my lunch. Then it was slow walk back.
My break in Winchester was soon over. I was lucky with the weather – no rain and warm. I am sure I shall return soon as it is my favourite city. There is lots to do and some lovely walks, some of which which incorporate the house Jane Austen died in and places the poet John Keats walked. Winchester also runs a poetry festival (cancelled this year) and holds several fairs.
My London+ 